tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-51039232599147347782024-03-14T06:20:03.543+02:00Africa and Beyond - by BicycleReports on my cycle trip around the World (by Ernest Markwood)Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.comBlogger258125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-10621713878485499502020-04-03T08:08:00.000+02:002020-04-03T08:08:09.064+02:00LOCKDOWNAs is the case with many people in the world right now, I am confined to "house arrest" (except for absolutely necessary outings). Social distancing, face masks, and so forth, is the order of the day. However, I could be locked up in a worse place. As it is, it is only my sister and myself, as well as the dogs, on the property. Enough space, a view, and a yard with pool as well. If I need to I can go shopping for food etc, and I can use my bike, so I get a bit of exercise. Unfortunately the tours I had lined up for the next few months have had to be cancelled, so this will be a financially challenging period, until this damn Corona Virus is overcome. Good luck to all of you in this regard.
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-51960561409056863842020-02-29T08:00:00.000+02:002020-02-28T02:25:40.949+02:00STILL ALIVE AND KICKING
Just a little letter to say that I am still around. Having a bit of off-time from touring, but will soon be on the road again (need to, money running low!). I'm becoming a bit fat and lazy, but no excuse as I have a nice donated bike from neighbours Robyn and Les.
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A bit of a fix-up and some modifications, and the bike is running nicely (named the "Black Cat").
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A few months ago one of the family dogs went off to "Dog Heaven", so there is a new and rather unruly puppy on the premises (I'll post a picture as soon as he will keep still for a second). In the mean time the "Other One" has inherited the throne;
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So, look who's The Boss now! (perhaps only a temporary appointment)
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-71274370130071412092019-12-09T09:32:00.000+02:002019-12-09T09:32:20.290+02:00LATEST?I suppose that I should give some sort of an update, just in case somebody is "tuned in". Sorry to disappoint you, but nothing much interesting to tell. I have been working on the tours, mostly the Vic Falls to CT tour. Then I had some serious illness, which laid me low for almost 3 months. I am recovering, and have recently concluded a more relaxing local Western Cape tour. In between tours I stay with my sister in Sedgefield, South Coast, SA (see previous post). Merry Xmas and Happy New Year. Until next time.
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-83026154519260363122019-06-12T17:44:00.001+02:002019-06-13T17:53:52.679+02:00WORKING ON TOURIn my previous post I did mention that I was off on another expedition tour (as crew). Now I have just returned from the Victoria Falls to Cape Town bicycle adventure tour. This tour involved camping and providing meals to the guests, as well as lots of cycling through Zambia, Botswana, Namibia, and SA.
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I was able to get a different perspective on Victoria Falls - from the Zambian side this time. We were also fortunate to visit Chobe Nat Park and Moremi GR in Botswana.
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Cycling (and camping) in the Namib Desert was a rough ride and a highlight. Cycling 45 km in the dark at Sossusvlei to catch sunrise on top of Dune 45 was something different.
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And after 3 weeks we cycled into Cape Town. It turned out to be an enjoyable adventure tour. (And did I mention "hard work"!).
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This tour was a good experience. Now I have some off-time for fishing and so forth. Before I know it I will be on the next Victoria Falls to CT tour.
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-89514543246994146352019-05-07T15:02:00.001+02:002019-05-10T01:50:48.151+02:00RECOVER AND REBUILDNo, don't panic! I have not been involved in another accident. The title of this post refers to some sort of financial recovery and a mission to get back on the road again. I arrived back hare in South Africa in January, just about penniless and without a bike and serviceable touring equipment. Fortunately I was able to stay at my sisters place in Sedgefield, where I have been living a type of beach-bum existence for a couple of months.
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I was (and I still am) trying to raise some sponsorship during this time that I have been back in SA, but to no avail. However, I did fortunately get involved with an Expedition Touring company. I have recently returned from my first tour, which was a 2-week tour of the Western Cape in South Africa. I was the vehicle driver, bike guy, and also filled in wherever else I was needed in this hectic environment. The Guests were all Germans (fortunately my 2 colleagues are guides who are fluent in German).
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The tour involved hiking, as well as bike rides (Bainskloof pass, Chapmans Peak, etc). The pictures here in this post were taken in the Cederberg, and on Lions Head at sunrise.
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Soon I will be on my next expedition tour, primarily a bicycle tour from Victoria Falls to Cape Town. (Will let you know in about a month's time how that one went).
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So now, for the moment, I am back relaxing in Sedgefield. I have found a good bicycle, have made an offer, and hope to get my grubby paws on that one. The bike needs some parts and TLC, but I look forward to taking the necessary care as and when I can afford it. I still need a lot of new equipment, starting with bike racks and panniers. There is some way to go before I am free on the road again.
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-68698546797587649422019-02-13T13:41:00.001+02:002019-04-05T01:03:02.892+02:00THE BEACH BUM<b>[NOTE:- I add something to this post every now and then, so please scroll down all the way to the end of this post - and there may be a surprise addition.]</b>
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OK, I'm not quite a "Beach Bum" yet, but perhaps not too far off. I have migrated along the coast East from Cape Town (South Africa). I am staying with my sister Olga, and her 3 pampered dogs, in Sedgefield town.
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For the last few months on the road I'd been without an operational phone (used for GPS, Wi-Fi, and pics), but I now have the use of a fancy hand-set. Also, thanks to friends Martie & Piet, I have the use of a bicycle to get around, and for a bit of cycle training. I am trying to start a running programme, but after 12 years of hardly even walking, my body has gone into shock in response to this "new" activity.
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In addition I am still acclimatising to the weather, which is somewhat cooler than what I have become accustomed to in the past couple of years.
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So, for now, I am trying (hoping!) to find sponsorship for a new touring bike, equipment such as racks and panniers, and funds with which to sustain myself on the road. My existing bike and equipment was all in such an advanced state of wear, that I left it behind when I flew out of Malaysia in January.
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[ADDITION 1 April] (No, this is not an "April Fool's" joke). I LONG TO GET BACK ON THE ROAD! Yes, I am living a very comfortable temporary life here in South Africa, thanks to my sister. However, my efforts to obtain travel/equipment sponsorship have turned up nothing yet. I have had discussions with people regarding work in the local cycle touring industry. Otherwise, perhaps I will try a bicycle delivery service here in Sedgefield (plenty of retired elderly folks have settled here!). But, I am not yet dead and gone. I will rise up and cycle on again - with or without assistance!
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[ADDITION 3 April] It was great to meet up with my friend Mark Spengler! Thanks Mark, for driving down from Jeffreys Bay for the visit. We had run many a marathon together, and so we did plenty of reminiscing about the "Glory Days". He is in SA on holiday, and not looking forward to returning to work next week in the cold UK. I had last seen Mark 12 years ago on 10 April 2007 (see blog post of that time). Rumour has it that we also shared a beer or 2.
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1South Africa-35.154559845661254 23.365860162435752-64.927960845661261 -17.942733837564248 -5.381158845661254 64.674454162435751tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-39309527496451992932019-01-23T06:00:00.000+02:002019-01-29T16:43:46.998+02:00RETURN OF THE PRODIGAL SONWell, I feel that the proverbial "Fattened Calf" has been slaughtered (and braai'd). Firstly, before I set foot on a single airplane, the guys at Pontian Cycling Club in Malaysia spoilt me rotten (and then they drove me hundreds of km to KL airport).
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Dave fetched me at the airport in Cape Town, and I am currently staying with him and Kathy (gourmet food, the use of a bicycle, and more - very thankful).
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It was also good to meet up with many old friends at the West Coast AC. I expect to stay around Cape Town for a short while, and wander off to my sister Olga in Sedgefield (South Coast village). I dumped my bike (number 2), and worn-out panniers, and a bunch of other things, in Malaysia. So now I dream of getting some sponsorship, a good new bike and equipment, and setting off into the sunset again. But that is just a dream at this stage.
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-36181545862679233382019-01-14T09:01:00.000+02:002019-01-29T16:38:11.142+02:00END OF THE ROAD?Yes, I am now at Pontian, in the SW of Malaysia, and close to the Southern most tip of Mainland Asia. There is a possibility that I may fly to Cape Town next week. That would signal a substantial break in my bike travels, and hopefully I can re-group and return to this nomadic life again.
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For the moment I am again staying with the guys of the Pontian Cycling Club (PCC), where I also stayed last year. They are taking extremely good care of me (as before). They have also made some improvements to their "Club House", which now resembles something between a pub and a hostel (bunk beds and shower, etc.). These people know how to entertain, and I seldom get to bed before 3 AM.
At the PCC there have been 2 other cyclists staying there during my current visit (Malaysian Matphi, and English Rowan). Of course, they were also dragged out for meals and drinks!
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On my way South from the Thai border, I camped mainly at mosques, parks, and petrol stations (as long as there was water, toilet, and rain shelter). A few times people had gone and bought a T/A dinner which they brought to me (they must have really felt pity for this poor homeless sod).
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Distances which I have cycled since crossing into Malaysia from Thailand are:- Alor Setar 82 km; Butterworth 92 km; Taiping 89 km; Lekir 92 km; Sabak Bernam 79 km; Jeram 77 km; Banting 67 km; Port Dixon 91 km; Mashid Tana 63 km; Jalan Muar 81 km; Bentun 95 km; and Pontian 42 km. The total distance which I have cycled on tour since 27 March 2007 is 170 716 km. (I hope to be back on the road in the not-too-distant future).
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-49726448448257590892018-12-17T12:38:00.002+02:002019-01-25T13:30:29.288+02:00BACK IN THAILAND<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vLElIlWPWgg/XBi7I_r9HFI/AAAAAAAAGsw/7dOAow1PmdkLaZj4bs05WO5ryX1RMnuMACLcBGAs/s1600/P1250605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vLElIlWPWgg/XBi7I_r9HFI/AAAAAAAAGsw/7dOAow1PmdkLaZj4bs05WO5ryX1RMnuMACLcBGAs/s400/P1250605.JPG" width="400" height="366" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1465" /></a></div>
Since my previous post (see below) I have returned to Thailand. I was denied a new Thai tourist visa, but at the border I was allowed a 30-day entry to Thailand. Now I am in Bangkok trying to get my bike back on the "GO" (that "Poor Animal" is suffering with each crank of the pedals, and roll of the wheels). And so, for now, I am probably heading towards Malaysia - OR WHEREVER?
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Daily distances which I have cycled from Laos South until Bangkok are:- Ban Ta Ka 65 km; Udon Province 77 km; Nam Pong 95 km; Ban Phai 80 km; Nakhon Town 96 km; Nong Phi 47 km; Sikhio 84 km; Muak Lek 71 km; Ayuttaya 93 km; and Bangkok 101 km. Total distance cycled up to this point is 168 399 km.
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-3795648776361898342018-11-25T13:52:00.002+02:002019-01-25T10:33:22.350+02:00LAOS AND AGAINHello Again! I am currently back in the People's Democratic Republic of Laos, for the second time in as many months. After leaving Pattaya (SE Thailand) in early September I cycled the central route North to the Thai Highlands and then I proceeded on down to the Mekong river. This was a route I had not taken before, and I had only seen this part of the river from the opposite banks in Laos.
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To reach the main border from Thailand to Laos I traveled East before crossing and proceeding to the Laos capital, Vientiane. I had sent out some requests for sponsorship so I could complete my route through China. I was hoping for some money to drop from the sky (the best response was "God Bless You"). After I realised that there was nothing forthcoming from above, there was no point in wasting my meagre funds on a Chinese visa, and I saw another 2-month visa for the return to Thailand as the most viable option.
However, due to all the previous Thai visas in my passport, I was denied another visa at this time (Vientiane has so far been the easiest place for people making a Thai visa run - so I guess they are tightening up their policy). And so I was off to the Vietnamese visa office where I was duly granted a month's visa (a bit expensive though).
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I still had enough time, so I headed through Southern Laos towards the Lao Bao border, and into Vietnam. The past rainy season had taken its toll on this busy road. Now it was dry and breezy, and the broken road had turned into a dust bowl.
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And so I was off to Vietnam for the first time in about 9 years (see that post for details). On my way back from Vietnam I crossed into Laos at a relatively remote border, at Nam Can. This border is situated in the NE of Laos, a rather mountainous region. I took it fairly easy along there, as bike parts were wearing out like popcorn. I also did not want to become part of the "popcorn festival" by wearing myself out. There was no need to rush, I had plenty of time (my problem was that I had no idea where to head next). So I made my way back towards Vientiane where I hope to get some clarity on my options.
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I passed through Phonsavanh, a touristy town in the otherwise remote NE mountains of Laos. The reason for all the tourists is the famed "PLAIN OF JARS" (ancient large carved stone jars). I found this town somewhat disturbing. In a relatively isolated region, suddenly hordes of foreign tourists pop out of the woodwork. Busses, mini-busses, taxis, etc, are hauling the Farangs in from Vientiane and Luang Prabang cities. I am not at all fond of this place, as I was twice ignored as a customer (obviously I'm a small time player). The road is broken and terribly dusty (certainly muddy in the rainy season). Looking at the countless fancy hotels and guesthouses one may imagine that there is enough money for road maintenance. Anyway, those jars are about 10 km out of town.
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On the way to another touristy town, Vang Vieng, I came across a rather interesting milestone (see the pic of the sign, the template for painting the name was probably used back-to-front, and the KM sign upside-down). Perhaps the sign was painted by one of the hordes of revelling young travellers (some who seem to get stuck here in VV).
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My previous trip through Laos had been in the Rainy Season, and the Rice Planting effort was in full swing. Now, it was the start of the Dry Season, and the Rice Harvest was in the swing of things.
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I stayed in the "Back-Packer Hangout" of Vang Vieng for a couple of days (cheapest room that I could find). Myself and my equipment were all in a mess, after an awkward period of time lately. Technically there is wi-fi, but it came and went at will (at least the hot shower worked, and I was in there for half the day). A highlight there was the Italian T/A Pizza shop next door, and I became their number-1 customer.
While in Vang Vieng I replaced an O-ring seal on my stove (nearly caused unintentional arson recently!), and repaired the door zip of my tent (free game for mozzies).
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Now I am back in Vientiane, capital of Laos. Two months ago I was prevented from applying for another Thailand tourist visa because I already had too many of those in my passport. After the whole Vietnam rigmarole, a number of thousands of KM on the bike, and the "almost" flight back to South Africa, GUESS WHAT?! Inexplicably my visa application was accepted. But my joy was short lived. Two days later I cruised over to the Thai Consulate to pick up my visa, but to no avail (the visa had been denied for the same reasons as before). There are always options, but those are rather slim, and not my preferred choice. Anyway, relax and look at the pictures.
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The previous picture is of my bike on the porch of the Mixay Guest House in Vientiane. Previously I had slept on this floor next to the bike (if I arrived late, or if the GH was full). This time, the 2 days prior to leaving for Thailand
I slept on a bench inside the hallway (again), after closing time.
There I met Adam, English ex-pat with family and cafe in SE Thailand, who has invited me to come and visit some time, thanks (and also thanks for the Beer Lao's!).
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Also at Mixay was French cyclist Thibaud, who I had met on the road from Vietnam a few days before reaching Vientiane. He is about twice my height, but gracefully bent his knees so we could fit into the same pic.
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The photo below of Vientiane was taken across the Mekong river from Thailand (Still about 80 km via the border and back to what you see in the pic).
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I had crossed from Thailand into Laos at the Nong Khai border-bridge across the Mekong river. On the following day I was at the Laos capital, Vientiane, about 30 km from that bridge border. For visa purposes etc I had to hang around in the vicinity, so some of these distances are not at all phenomenal, but mainly a search for accommodation. Then, from Vientiane I cycled through Southern Laos towards Savannaket, and then East up towards the Vietnam border at Lao Bao. Daily distances from Vientiane on this occasion are:- Nongtaeng 33 km; Nongkhankou 36 km; Mai 31 km; Vientiane (again) 27 km; Mai 25 km; River Watt 37 km; Mixay 26 km; Naxon 52 km; Paxxan 80 km; Pakkadan 50 km; Vieng Kham 72 km; Thakek 85 km; Ban Nao Nua 75 km; Dong Hen 76 km; Kethamouak 78 km; Ban Dong 80 km; Lao Bao (Vietnam) 23 km. Total cycled by this stage is 165 635 km.
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From Vietnam I returned to Laos via the relatively remote Nam Can border post. After the 20 km climb up to the border the previous day, I was expecting some respite, perhaps even some downhill. Not to be! Still early in the day, but after torturing my poor overladen horse on the relentless uphill (sometimes over 10% gradient) on a somewhat broken road, I called it a day at Nonghet town. So distances into this mountainous part of Laos, from the Vietnam border, were:- Nonghet 18 km; Ban Pakho 32 km; Kham 41 km; Ponsavanh 43 km; Nongtan 59 km; Hinsua 54 km; Phoukoun 45 km; Kasi 42 km; Vang Vieng 59 km; Vankhi 40 km; Local District 59 km; Mekong Temple 40 km; and Vientiane 63 km. Total distance cycled is 167 590 km.
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-91199383637631298222018-11-14T13:50:00.000+02:002019-01-28T12:37:44.306+02:00FLIGHT TO VIETNAMUPDATE COMING SOON - I'LL TRY! Now that you are here on this site, it may be worth your while looking at the pictures. I should finish this post before the end of the current century.
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Tao-ist, Confusion-ist, Catholic, and the occasional Budhism. That is what you will find in Vietnam (all a bit confusing to me). The Catholics are a legacy of the French Colonialism, and even the written Vietnamese language was formalised by a French Catholic Priest.
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I needed a haircut. As I cycled along this busy dusty "fumy" and noisy road - I spotted what I thought was a barber shop. OK, yes it was a barber shop. The diminutive barber was not yet at office, but the carpenter who shared the premises called, and he soon made an appearance. Very interesting, although I feared for my life at times. It seemed that he could not stop cutting, and even the beard trim ended in a smooth shave. Scary! He used an old style "cut-throat" razor, which he sharpened every now and than.
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Bia Hoi, a refreshing unpreserved draught beer in Northern Vietnam (many different breweries, but all reportedly the cheapest beer in the world). Also, due to the French colonial legacy of the country, there is good baguettes at little bakeries along the way. Somehow, with the help of the Bia Hoi and baguettes it seemed possible to wash the traffic dust and fumes down my parched throat.
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And so, I will let you in on a little secret. I was going to fly back to SA from Hanoi (thanks to The Good Samaritan). However, the excess baggage costs made the trip unfeasible, so I headed back to Laos from the Northern part of Vietnam (mean, mean, mountains! - even more in N Laos).
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Initially, once I had obtained the Vietnamese visa in the Laos capital, Vientiane, I headed through Southern Laos. I crossed into Vietnam at Lao Bao, sort-of Central Vietnam, and a major border crossing between these 2 countries. The following is a daily record of the distances I cycled in Vietnam:- Cam Lo 60 km; Phu Viet 77 km; Ba Don 85 km; Ky Phong 86 km; Vinh 62 km; Dong Ha 64 km; Hoa Chau 75 km; Kim Lien 49 km; Ninh Binh 49 km; Phu Ly 31 km; Hanoi 71 km; Noi Bai (airport and back etc) 71 km; Ha Dong 69 km; Miew Mong 45 km; Hang Tram 44 km; Cam Thuy 48 km; Thong Nat 55 km; Xuan Tho 76 km; Anh Son 71 km; Con Cuong 33 km; Quang Ten 44 km; Mxien 73 km; and Nam Can (Vietnam/Laos border) 22 km. Total distance cycled thus far is 166 995 km.
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-19300814275061353192018-09-22T13:48:00.000+02:002019-01-30T11:05:03.991+02:00NORTH THAI HILLS TO MEKONGUPDATE SHOULD BE COMPLETED SOON - I HOPE. Until then here are some pictures for you to look at. I cycled away from Pattaya (Jomtien) on 10 September 2018, perhaps for the final time. I skirted Bangkok city to the East, and chose the central route - out of a possible 3 routes heading North towards Laos (this is the only one of the 3 routes which I had not cycled previously). Initially the road was a rather busy highway over rolling hills. But, as I progressed Northwards this route eventually turned into a winding, hilly climb, towards the Thai Highlands. The most elevated region where I cycled was the area around PhuRua. It was quite cold in the highlands, with regular chilly rain. At one small temple where I stayed, the monks even had a HOT SHOWER in their bathroom!
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In the Northern Highlands at Huai Lat (close to PhuRua) I camped at a watt which had the largest and most fancy temple building I have seen. It is huge, and a modern version of a traditional Budhist temple. In fact, the whole watt complex is more like a village than a temple. The Manager had workers clean up an under cover parking spot for me to camp, and I was invited to a luxurious breakfast the following morning (breakfast for the staff - monks eat elsewhere). The brass statues a few pics below, are inside the temple building. They also have counters inside the temple where Budhist paraphernalia is on sale. The bathrooms were great, even hot showers.
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Overnight facilities at the temples can vary. Usually I camp on a covered verandah, sometimes inside or under the "sala" where the monks eat and pray and chant. On more than one occasion I was offered an empty monk house where I could lay my bedding out on the floor.
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From the highlands of PhuRua I dropped down steeply to Loei. I was not looking forward to the 50 km stretch from PhuRua to Loei, as the GPS map showed this to be an extremely curvy road (meaning serious uphill). To my pleasant surprise I found that the road was indeed full of sharp curves, but it was all downhill to Loei. From there I carried on North to the Mekong at Chiang Kham town. I had not been to this part of the Mekong river before. I followed the river East for a few days before crossing to Laos from Nong Khai in Thailand, and then on to Vientiane (once again).
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Distances cycled since leaving Pattaya (SE Thailand) on 10 September are as follows:- Bang Saen 66 km; Phanom Sarakham 74 km; Nakhon Nayok 72 km; Saraburi 79 km; Lam Narai 75 km; Bueng Sam Phan 83 km; Lom Sak 102 km; Hill Watt 69 km; Huai Lat 57 km; Chiang Khan 85 km; Pak Mang 61 km; Tha Kathin 77 km; Salakhamtai (Laos) 74 km; and Vientiane 24 km. Total to this point is 164 749 km (exactly 1000 km since leaving Pattaya).
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It is unusual to see a "Fat Budha" in Thailand. The Budha above is more of a Chinese version of The Budha.
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-34522980677298223332018-09-01T05:00:00.000+02:002018-09-01T13:57:33.875+02:00THE LANDING<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w2TAOfCqFq4/W4kSKwgAW4I/AAAAAAAAGjw/Rjj5c6Qi41oS9k0IOcrsq4mOvHd_M8W5wCLcBGAs/s1600/P1250573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w2TAOfCqFq4/W4kSKwgAW4I/AAAAAAAAGjw/Rjj5c6Qi41oS9k0IOcrsq4mOvHd_M8W5wCLcBGAs/s400/P1250573.JPG" width="400" height="264" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1056" /></a></div>
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OK then, hello all of you who thought that perhaps I was a "Gonner"!. After 8000 km, a broken arm, ravenous dog bite, mountains and plenty of rain, I am back in Pattaya Thailand, from where I cycled off about 4 months ago. As usual it was a wonderful experience, but also included visa problems and bike problems, and stomach problems (as usual). My total touring distance so far is 163 749 km. While I was busy updating this blog my computer HD packed up, and it has since been replaced at a substantial cost. Info unrecoverable, but luckily I had backup for most. I have dated the previous 5 posts to the day on which that phase ended (mostly with land border crossings to the next stage / country). <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-80439437579550388922018-08-18T05:27:00.000+02:002018-09-02T03:07:59.515+02:00ISAN TRANSITAfter a number of transits it is my opinion that the Laos/Thai land border at Chong Mek (40 km West of Pakse in Laos) is the "least hassle" of the borders between these 2 countries. With a bike you can enter Thai through the car gates quick and easy (avoid weekends and holidays, and if you have a visa then all you need to do is fill in the entry/departure card).
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Once again, soon after the border I camped at the Marine Police on the Mekong River at the town of Khong Chiam. This was quite a spectacle as the river was at its highest in about 10 years (look carefully at pictures taken now, and on previous visits, from the same 2 view points). I am guessing, but possibly 15m to 20m higher water now (see the concrete paths and steps leading down, as well as the islands and exposed rocks).
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The picture above shows the chief monk at a very nice temple off this road (Buri Ram district). He treated me very well, and I am thankful. He could possibly be a good guest house manager.
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And then I stopped off at Pannee's house on the farm in Ubon, not far off my intended route. The tent which I had been using lately was becoming rather thin underneath, causing a wet sleep each time a floor was flooded by rain water (somewhat unpredictable). I had arranged with Pannee to swap this tent with the other tent I had left there last year when I also left her (she does not usually live on the farm, and was not there on this occasion). However, she did instruct her Mama to let me stay in the house for a night or 2, while I adapted the tent and did some maintenance to my bike.
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Daily distances cycled from Laos through Eastern Thailand to Pattaya have been as follows (total for this stretch is 852 km):- Khong Chiam 38 km; Ban Trakan 82 km; Kantararam 89 km; Samrong Thap 73 km; Non Daeng 85 km; Nang Rong 86 km; Lam Nang Rong 59 km; Wattana Nakhon 84 km; Phanom Sarakham 89 km; Chonburi 96 km; and Pattaya (Jomtien) 71 km. My grand total distance since leaving Cape Town, South Africa, on 27 March 2007 is now 163 749 km.
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The picture above shows the front entrance to Pannee's house on the farm (and I did tell her that I would paint the door the next time I went to the place). Tropical weather is harsh.
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On the day which I arrived here in Pattaya, a car slowed down alongside, and the woman in the passenger seat handed me this pair of genuine RayBan sunglasses. I was going into a stiff breeze, in bright sunlight for a change. They simply drove away after that donation, so "thank you". ALSO NOTE:- Please excuse the unsightly ULCER on my nose. By the time I arrived here in Pattaya my whole body was full of these festering sores! It started from mosquito bites and heat rash, and when my defence was low due to weeks of diarrhoea while I was exerting myself by cycling, the bacteria nailed me. I have since been on a heavy antibiotic course, and things have drastically improved (so I end off with this good news).
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-7967869436714814622018-08-01T05:25:00.000+02:002018-09-06T04:56:40.020+02:00THOSE LAOS MOUNTAINS AGAINIt was no surprise to me that there were hills. I had been over this Northern Laos route a number of times, but only once before had I cycled the section over the biggest mountains, and that was a good 8 years ago! Lots of rain, sometimes rather cold at the high points. However, plenty of spectacular scenery.
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This was the height of the rice-planting season, and I stopped to watch the workers on many occasions. By planting the previously sowed rice gleaned from the seed-beds, the eventual crop is multiplied many-fold. These people work hard in rain and hot humid conditions. But rice is their life.
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And eventually, when I had reached the Laos Capital Vientiane, I managed to buy a 2-month Thailand visa without any hassle or fuss (so why did they give me so much trouble in Malaysia?). A sleep in a bed for 2 nights, proper laundry done, and hot showers - what luxury!
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Rubber, freshly harvested from the bowls attached to the trees for trapping the rubber sap. This is an important lifeline for the mountain villages in Northern Laos. (Yes, there are tycoons raking in the money, but it provides a living for many of these isolated communities).
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Then the well-known route through Laos to the South. Pakse city, and then West to the Thailand border. I crossed the border a day before my Laos visa expired. I was not in a healthy state. I had diarrhoea for a few weeks by this time, and I had festering sores all over myself. It felt as though I would rather hide myself instead of stopping at petrol station toilets where people could see me. I also felt somewhat embarrassed asking to stay at temples when it must have looked as though I was transmitting the "plague".
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By the time I arrived in Pakse city, Southern Laos, the constant heavy rain had caused some serious flooding. By this time a dam further South had broken, causing disaster in that isolated region of Cambodia downstream along the Mekong river. The Watt in Pakse where I had stayed before (in the common area of this wooden stilted building) was now hardly clear of the water. Previously there had been a storage area with a paved walkway further down along the river. The big wooden river boat moored there was now at a level with the building, and the novice monks were rowing their boat around where people had previously been strolling around.
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Daily distances cycled through Laos at this time are as follows:- Ban Don Chai 72 km; Vieng Phouka 58 km; Luang Namtha 58 km; Namo 66 km; Oudomxai 60 km; Pak Mong 82 km; Ban Pathung 75 km; Xieng Ngeun 55 km; Phoudam 54 km; Phachao 84 km; Vang Vieng 78 km; Phonhong 80 km; Houayang 59 km; Vientiane 35 km; Friendship Bridge 28 km; Somsavan 32 km; Ban Namlo 85 km; Pakxan 39 km; Vieng Kham 91 km; Hinboon 79 km; Ban Thung 65 km; Seno 65 km; Pakxong 63 km; Phounsavang 49 km; Don Muang 66 km; Pakse 70 km; Ban Dou 37 km; Chong Mek (Laos/Thai border) 20 km. (Total this leg in Laos is 1 705 km). Total cycled so far is 162 897 km.
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So, there is some sort of legacy related to staying at Budhist Temples as often as I do. The strings tied to my wrists I received from monks praying for my safe travels (one in the South of Thailand, and one in Northern Laos).
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-19278558781958052752018-07-04T05:23:00.000+02:002018-09-01T07:03:03.061+02:00RISING UP THROUGH THAII was keen to know if I could somehow get back into Thailand without a visa (refused at the consulate in Georgetown, Malaysia). I charged North to Pedang Besar border in the NW of Malaysia, and arrived around mid-day on a Saturday. Absolute chaos, as the traffic was jammed all the way for about 5 km along the main road through the town, to the border. Even on a bicycle it took some skilful manoeuvring to squeeze through. Malay exit works on a quick and easy system, but at the Thai entry there were hundreds of people in disorganised que's, so I took up my place at the back. Soon an organising official approached me, looked at my passport, and escorted me to an office inside the immigration building. There I was given a 30 day entry into Thailand (the huge signs on the walls stated that I needed to show THB 10 000 in cash, but nobody asked). So, now I planned to head straight North through the longest section of Thailand - and I figured that I could pull off that move in a month.
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In Malaysia the Thai visa is rather more expensive than a place such as Laos, and I was rather pleased to be given half of that time in the country at no charge. So, off I went on my way to the North. I was feeling fairly strong, healthy, and happy.
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At this time of year, whatever breeze there was, was mostly behind me. However, it rained pretty much every day in the South of Thailand, and sometimes I had to dress up because I felt rather chilly. My broken arm was not yet properly healed, and whenever the temperature dropped that discomfort would increase. I usually found a dry camp at night (temples or wherever), but it can become a bit miserable waking up to pouring rain, dressing in wet cycling gear, packing wet bags, and heading off into another grey and soaking day.
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I still had a problem with spokes snapping on the back wheel of this bike (great - having to remove brake disc as well as cassette to do a spoke replacement). I had run out of spares, and at Phatalung I found a bike shop which had my size of spoke so I bought 20 (turned out to be only 19 - why would they cheat me with 1 spoke?). My Pattaya tyres were wearing out, so before I hit the big Laos Mountains, I fitted good new tyres at Lampang city.
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The pictures in this post are just an assortment from this leg of the trip through Thailand. The cave temple is in the Thung Song district, where I have camped before. I was totally unaware of the caves, I did not explore because of the rain (as before). But this time the monk called me from the hall where I was camping, to have breakfast. He lives in the spectacular cave, and also gave me so much T/A food that I had to refuse much of it (too much to carry).
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I relaxed a little on the cycling effort for the last few days as I approached Laos in good time. From Chiang Khong town in Thailand I crossed over to Huay Xai district in Laos on 4 July. I was rather peeved at having to pay a hefty price for the shuttle bus across the Mekong bridge between the 2 immigration check points (I had previously cycled across this bridge in the opposite direction). The bus fare seriously swallowed up a good proportion of my survival pennies. It was a very quiet week-day, with no pickup truck traffic from whom I could beg a ride. Now the big hills and huge mountains of Northern Laos awaited me!
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Daily distances which I managed to cycle on this leg from SW to NW Thailand (2 025 km):- Hat Yai 95 km; Phatalung 85 km; Thung Song 78 km; Wang Sa 120 km; Lamae 146 km; Chumphon 105 km; Pak Klang 52 km; Huai Yang 117 km; Pranburi 102 km; Phetchaburi 92 km; Potharam 91 km; U-Thong 99 km; Chai Nat 128 km; Khong Wilai 130 km; Tak 110 km; Don Chadi 113 km; Lampang 95 km; District 15 km; Huai Luang 22 km; Luang Nuea 65 km; Chun 97 km; Thoeng 92 km; Chiang Khong 50 km. Total distance thus far is 161 192 km.
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-38447717779933984182018-06-09T07:52:00.000+02:002018-09-07T07:36:33.983+02:00DOWN EAST AND UP WEST - MALAYSIAAnd so I entered NE Malaysia, about 30 km from Kota Bharu city (with a broken arm and uncomfortable dog bite). Surprisingly, my first night in Malaysia was spent, not at a mosque as I had expected, but at a Budhist temple!
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This was the time of the Malaysian political elections, and party paraphenalia was everywhere. Depending on the wind direction, I was sometimes slapped in the face by rows of party flags (I had to keep my line of cycling in the traffic).
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I was cycling down the E coast of Malaysia, which is home to more Malays and therefore more strictly Islamic than the West (which has a larger proportion of ethnic Chinese and Indian Malaysians in the population). The elections were hardly concluded before the start of Ramadan, an important time for Moslems involving a month of prayer and daytime fasting. While in Malaysia I often camped under shelter at mosques, and I would usually be invited to share the evening meal after sunset. Usually the mosques would also have showers (cold, but the climate is hot and humid, so OK).
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I bypassed Singapore while crossing Southern Malaysia from East to West coast. The weather was extremely wet, and besides, foreigners are not allowed to camp in Singapore (you have to pay for rooms). The exception is Ubin Island, but I would have had to pay Singapore Dollars for the ferry to get to the island and back. Also, the camping there seems rather basic with no rain protection (and it was pouring).
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Due to the rain I had to protect the moving parts on my bike from the "road muck" which gets thrown up together with the rain water. I was fortunate to find a part of a car fender at the roadside, with which I could extend the rear mudguard on the bike. That, combined with some other innovations, serves to keep that "muck" off the bike - and even the bags are not as messy in the tent at night.
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One night I was camping in a convenient mosque close to the town of Mersing, SE Malaysia. I hit the showers but forgot one of my phones (luckily I had 2 phones) in the bracket on the bike handlebar. I could not believe that there would be theft at a mosque on the conservative Islamic East coast of Malaysia (but when I returned from my brief wash, the bracket had been opened and the phone was gone). I expect that someone had been watching my movements from the shadows beyond the premises (there are plenty of migrant workers in the country). And NO, I am not crazy about telephone conversations - I use phones only for Wi-Fi and GPS navigation (hence the handlebar bracket).
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The first town I reached on the SW coast of Malaysia was Pontian. It was raining and I intended to reach the next town on my way N in daylight. But instead I was stopped by 2 Chinese Malaysian men (Michael Ho and Jackie Lua) who vaguely asked if I needed help. It turns out they are members of the Pontian Cycling Club, and they escorted me back into town where I camped for 3 nights on the floor of their upstairs "club house". They admit that the club is more of a "party club" than an actual "cycling club", as only about 5 of their 30-odd "members" ever do any cycling. I was welcome to try and empty their fridge of beer, but Jackie kept coming back to re-stock the fridge. They also took me out to restaurants for all meals during the time that I was there, and treated me as though I was some kind of a celebrity. Thanks all of you people, it is unlikely that I will ever be able to repay you for your generosity and kindness. I was also offered stacks of cycling clothes, and I chose to keep a number of outfits (the first time I have ever owned a cycling shirt in my life). Apparently "club members" have grown out of their fancy cycling gear (perhaps the beer has something to do with this phenomenon). I could also dump 2 more of my original perished panniers, as Jackie gave me 2 of his old front panniers (now I only have one of my original panniers left). One morning 2 of these guys carried my bike downstairs, dumped it on their pickup truck and regardless of my protests the bike was soon receiving attention at their local bike shop. The shop did not have my size tyres (27.5 - otherwise I would have had new tyres there and then), but there were a lot of gear etc adjustments made, new tubes, and a new saddle (the saddle made a huge difference to my battered ass, and subsequently, after a number of in-transit adjustments the healing could begin).
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On my second day with the Pontian Cycling Club, I was taken on an excursion to the Southern Tip of Mainland Asia. There I bumped into an odd-looking tourist, who turned out to be a touring cyclist who has been on the road for more than 5 years (his bike was hidden close to the park entrance, and he was planning to camp in the vicinity for the night). Well, Allan Cascante, from Costa Rica, was dragged back to Pontian and I had some company that night on the floor of the Pontian Cycling Club. True to their custom, Allan was also invited out that evening, and treated to the hospitality of these wonderful people.
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Up the Malaysian West coast, and the next major stop would be Penang Island, where I would apply for a new 2-month Thai visa at their consulate in Georgetown. I arrived at the start of a weekend, so I went to camp at my usual spot on the derelict fishing platform at Batu Ferringhi on the N coast of the island. This is the 3rd time in 8 years that I have camped here, and certainly one of my favourite sites.
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And so, by Monday I had visa photos, dummy air ticket out of Thai, etc etc. But, surprise, those "wonderful" officials at the consulate refused to give me another 2-month visa for Thailand. Apparently I have to be going back to my own country on a regular basis, instead of hanging around in SE Asia and spending this much regular time in Thailand.
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I still had plenty of time to hang around in Malaysia, but I was keen to know if I could somehow enter Thailand again. So I headed for the Pedang Besar border into Thailand in the NW of Malaysia. To cut a long story short, I was given a free 30 day stamp into Thailand (the notices read that I should have THB 10 000 in cash with me, but nobody asked). Thirty days was enough for me to cruise directly North through South and Western Thailand, until I ran smack-bang into the Mekong and splashed over to Laos.
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Daily distances cycled in Malaysia are as follows:- Pengkalam Kubur 84 km; Selising 50 km; Bandar Permaisuri 69 km; Marang 81 km; Dungun 72 km; Kemaman 71 km; Kampung Ubai 93 km; Leband Chondong 94 km; Mersing 79 km; Mawai Baharu 79 km; Desaru 67 km; Bandar Penawar 88 km; Johor Bharu 59 km; Senai 80 km; Pontian 56 km; Peserai 88 km; Pekan Pasir 67 km; Pasir Panjang 82 km; Sepang 59 km; Banting 61 km; Bukit Jeram 60 km; Simpang Empat 108 km; Terung 123 km; Butterworth 111 km; Batu Ferringi 52 km; Georgetown 61 km; In Penang 35 km; Gurun 81 km; and Kangar 105. Total distance to the end of Malaysia is 159 167 km. (The distance through Malaysia amounted to 2 180 km of cycling).
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-5716564726701546932018-05-03T05:20:00.000+02:002018-09-06T05:08:51.082+02:00SLIPPING DOWN THAII had been relaxing at Leana's condo in Jomtien Thailand for a couple of weeks. During this time I was able to update this blog, as well as work on my bike (fitting new road tyres, packing wheel bearings, and so forth). Leana returned after guiding a bike tour, and then it was time for me to get on the road again. After some uncertainty I had decided on heading down to the NE border of Malaysia, which would take 2 weeks at best.
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I had traveled South through Thailand a number of times before, so this time I took a slightly different route along the Gulf of Thailand coast. This also involved taking a small car ferry across the inlet to Songkhla. The pics in this post are along this route, Surat Thani, Ban Lad, and Prachuap Kiri Khan (amongst others).
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At a petrol station close to Surat Thani city, these 2 ladies had stands in the on-site food court. They noticed me filling my water bottles from the "unsecured" tap, and decided to "help" me. They fed me from their respective stalls, and went to buy me T/A meal from KFC next door. Truly wonderful people, and I am just as thankful. Just wonder, how terrible did I look? (It was late PM by that time!).
A day or 2 after that the monks at a seaside temple close to Nakhon Si Tamarat gave me a small brass Budha, which they saw me looking at when they brought me breakfast. I tied the icon to my front luggage rack with plastic zip ties, but there were times when I noticed people (mainly small village children) trying to rip the thing off from the bike. I was not going to take any chances about losing that Budha, so I removed it from public view. (Now I have properly secured the little statue with a hefty brass pipe clamp, through a cut which I made in the back of the little piece).
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My Eastern route also took me through the predominantly Islamic regions of Pattani and Narathiwatt. Then "IT" happened! Cycling in the rain close to Pattani city, my front wheel slipped on a ridge in the road and before I knew it I had gone down rather hard. I immediately knew that I had broken my arm (just below the shoulder), as I could not even bend down to try and pick my bike up. Luckily somebody helped me, probably a policeman as this accident happened at a permanent police check point.
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After the crash I somehow managed to make it into Pattani, thinking that I would find a big mosque where I could spend the night and think about my next course of action. Instead I found a very fancy Budhist temple (resembling a shopping mall) where I camped on their covered basketball court. People there could see that I was injured and suggested I go to hospital, but I did not have money for that kind of treatment. (So they gave me some medicine to ease the pain). The following morning I was invited into their fancy dining area for breakfast, and that is when "IT" happened again.
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One of the big "temple dogs" probably did not want me sharing his breakfast, so he executed a meaningful bite into my leg just below the knee. Suddenly I was spurting blood all over the polished white tiled floor! It was then that the senior community people in charge rushed me to hospital, as a dog bite can quickly become infected (as far as I know, dogs don't brush their teeth). I had the necessary treatment and injections, and at the same time these people also paid for XRays which confirmed my broken arm (just a "crack" really).
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With only a couple of days left of my Thailand visa, and many km still to go, I had no choice. Cycling with a broken arm was extremely uncomfortable, I had to rest very often, and I did not make it all that far in a day, but at least I was moving. I crossed the closest border to Malaysia, via the estuary from Talat by means of a ferry, sharing the ride with lots of motorcycles and commuting merchants pushing their carts/trolleys. I just managed to make the crossing to Malaysia in time (late afternoon on the day my Thai visa expired). In case you were wondering, if you overstay your Thai visa for a short time you get fined, and a long overstay will get you fined and banned from returning to Thailand. In extreme "overstay" cases the foreign offender will be imprisoned until such time as he can raise the money to pay the (by that time) hefty fine, and pay for his own flight out to his home country. Then he will be escorted to the airport, never to return to Thailand. It is crazy to even understand how things could get that bad, but I had met people in Bangkok who had overstayed their tourist visa by as much as 14 years!
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Daily distances which I cycled on this leg of my travels are as follows:- Chonburi 74 km; Samut Prakan 80 km; Samut Sakhon 72 km; Bang Lad 100 km; Pranburi 85 km; Prachuap Kiri Khan 76 km; Bang Saphan 76 km; Ta Sae 86 km; Pac Tako 75 km; Chaya 96 km; Kanchanadit 81 km; Nakhon Si Tamarat 107 km; Ranot 105 km; Singhan Nakhon 81 km; Chana 45 km; Pattani 60 km; Police Station 25 km; and Bacho (end of Thailand) 55 km. Total distance up to this stage is 156 993 km. (This leg through the S of Thailand amounted to 1 379 km).
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<br /></div>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-45053619178412907082018-04-13T15:00:00.000+02:002018-08-31T12:21:34.905+02:00BACK ON THE ROADIt is now time for me to hop on my bike (The Sledgehammer), and hit the road again. This deed has to be done before I bacome too fat and lazy to move on.
Have had a good rest here in Pattaya, thanks Leana. Had my birthday here, and thanks to all who sent me birthday wishes.
Not sure where I am going now North, South, or East? I leave my computer here at Leana's condo in Pattaya (Jomtien), so I will only update the blog after I return.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iop2x1QYs_0/WtCpi9wryXI/AAAAAAAAGVo/tA9ps2EH3Ug1D8-y516-8_akWieKXOZkwCLcBGAs/s1600/20180408_183744-02.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iop2x1QYs_0/WtCpi9wryXI/AAAAAAAAGVo/tA9ps2EH3Ug1D8-y516-8_akWieKXOZkwCLcBGAs/s400/20180408_183744-02.jpeg" width="291" height="400" data-original-width="1002" data-original-height="1379" /></a></div>
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-39621809404488098432018-04-02T02:34:00.000+02:002018-04-06T03:23:27.818+02:00NORTH WEST THAI AND LAOS<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CCxLlOyxsdo/WsG6HKVrVhI/AAAAAAAAGQ8/F6Jdz6um29k5n6igo_0JO9oUGmeQXiMTwCLcBGAs/s1600/P1250349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CCxLlOyxsdo/WsG6HKVrVhI/AAAAAAAAGQ8/F6Jdz6um29k5n6igo_0JO9oUGmeQXiMTwCLcBGAs/s400/P1250349.JPG" width="400" height="393" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1573" /></a></div>
It was time to cycle out of Thailand on a visa run again. These trips have become my usual excursions around SE Asia in the past 2 years. I have spent a lot of time in Thailand lately, so for a new Thai visa I mostly cycle to Laos (capital Vientiane, the easiest and cheapest option, also Malaysia and Cambodia). I still dream of making one more trip to China, in order to complete my route from the China/Pakistan border to the China/Laos border. There is only a little bit over 1000 km to do, but due to time restrictions I would (as I did before), need to use a somewhat costly rigmarole of transport to reach my cycling start point, and then again to leave China from where I finish. As I say, it is a dream but perhaps I could find a sponsor to that effect.
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I now have a new bike, and I was looking forward to this trip. I would be traveling lighter than usual, as I could leave unnecessary items at Leana’s condo where I had been relaxing for 3 weeks. Bye-the-way, the new bike with different saddle gave me some serious "backside problems". So I have named this bike Sledgehammer. These problems reached a point where I stole an old leather spring saddle off an abandoned bike at a police station where I was camping. (It did ease my rear-end distress somewhat, but the damage had been done).
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In order to avoid the awkward traffic of the infamous Sukumvhit Road into Bangkok, I decided to take the train instead of cycling. So on a Sunday morning towards the end of January I said goodbye to Leana and headed off to the terminal train station 40 km South of Pattaya (more time at a terminal station to load my bike and bags on the train, and then go in search of my seat). To my disappointment I found that the train did not run on weekends, so I headed for Bangkok by bike. I camped at a lake that night, only about 10 km up the road from where I had started off that morning.
Then I picked up a bug which made me very ill for a few days. Just to add insult to injury, one one of these sleepless nights a tent pole snapped for no reason (I have to say, in 4 years this is the first breakage on this tent - I guess everything does eventually wear out). So, still rather ill, I swam into Bangkok city on THAT flooded and traffic-jammed Sukumvhit Rd in the pouring rain. Within a few hours I had taken a train out to the former Siam capital, Ayuttaya. From there I could comfortably head for Chang Mai city in the NW of Thai, where I have been only briefly before.
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I then experienced some troubles with this new Sledghehammer bicycle. The NW of Thailand is a hilly area, and on a big downhill the rear spokes started to snap one after the other. By the time I crept into Lampang city the following day, I was practically pushing the bike with 6 broken spokes and a bucled wheel dragging against the frame. It was a Sunday, but I found a decent bike shop who had my size spokes at a reasonable price. A few km out of town I inhabited a bus stop kiosk where I could do repairs and spend the night (conveniently close to a big petrol station - for water, washing, toilet, etc).
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Broken spokes were not my only bike problems (11 broken by the time I had returned to Thai). The rear gear changer sometimes worked, and sometimes not at all. (Later in this trip I cycled more than 1000 km with only 3 useful gears on the back wheel). Fortunately by that stage the terrain was not particularly hilly.
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My intention had been to cross from Thailand to Laos in the NW of Thai. That route involves plenty of big hills on the way to the capital, Vientiane, where I was headed for the new Thai visa. But, with the gear problems, I instead crossed Northern Thailand towards the East, via Phurua and the Loei districts. I did struggle a bit over there, as it is also quite a hilly route, but the roads are in better condition than the NW Lao roads. But, that is a beautiful area where I have not been before.
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Then, early one morning a beautiful bird with expensive taste gave me a peck on my grubby cheek. (No, this is not what you are thinking!). As I was packing up at a jungle Temple one morning, a colourful parrot landed on my back and proceeded to ride around on my shoulder while I was busy. Before I knew it, that parrot had removed the diamond from my ear ring, and swallowed it! Sorry about the way I look in the picture, I probably had a rough night (but the bird makes up for that).
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I then crossed the Mekong River into Laos. I had to go to the capital, Vientiane, for a new Thailand visa. From there I first cycled North, then East, and then South through Laos to Savannaket, where I crossed the Mekong back to Thailand. Looking East from Laos one can see the barrier mountains which form the border with Vietnam. A rather imposing sight when you are traveling on a heavily loaded bicycle.
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In an earlier post on this blog I did mention a bridge built by the Soviets and dedicated to Juri Gagarin. Well, I crossed that bridge again, and this time I took some pictures from the other side of the bridge. That area is one of the places in Laos which is still plagued by unexploded ordnance from the Vietnam war.
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After a long hot day on the bike I was probably a bit clumsy, and literally burnt my fingers. As I was preparing my dinner I spilt a pot of boiling water over my hand. Anyway, that hand has now thankfully healed.
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Again, as often before, I camped at the Budhist Temples (Watts). But this time I also stayed over at various other places such as petrol stations and police stations.
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As sometimes happens, when camping at the temples I get offered breakfast. The monks also gave me various gifts, and a favourite is laundry powder, soap, and a toothbrush (this must have something to do with my appearance!).
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Certain temples are monasteries (or schools) where there are teenaged monks (called Novices). At times they are put to work, washing temple vehicles, or even re-decorating Buddha statues.
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Initially I had planned to cross from Thailand to Laos at Chang Khong (but due to the gear problems I changed my plans). Three years ago I had stayed in Chang Khong at "THE HUB" pub, hostel, and bicycle museum - operated by Alan Bate and his Thai partner May. As a fellow cyclist Alan had been very kind to me, offering me free camping on the premises. But now I had to change my route, and therefore I was not able to visit them again. On my return to Pattaya from the NE I had to cross a range of hills, and Pa Kham town is in that region, about 4 days by bike from my destination. So, passing through town somebody called to me, but I just waved and carried on up the slope. Then my curiosity overwhelmed my cycling determination, I turned around to investigate, and HUGE surprise! - it was Alan Bate, in a roadside pub, had not recognised me until I had gone back to see what the fuss was about. (Apparently he had written something just the week before, where he mentioned me from 3 years before). This is a very remarkable co-incidence. He had sold up in Chang Khong 2 years earlier, and him and May and their 9-year-old son now live on her family farm 1200 km from where I expected them to be. I stayed with them for 3 days, enjoying the rare company and eating them out of their house. Bye-the-way, Alan is not just some old slogging cyclist like myself - in 2010 he broke the Guinnes record for the fastest "Around the World Bicycle ride" (that record has since been broken). He was also a professional cyclist in his former home town Liverpool (UK), and a pro cycling team manager. (So I am in illustrious company here). Alan has about 50 bicycles in his shed (many from his former bicycle museum). He is hard in training at the moment, and one of his worn-out training bikes has gears which match the broken ones on my bike (so I just swapped the whole handlebar - changers, levers, and all - thanks Alan).
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I have also had some ATM bank problems on this ride. In Vientiane I tried to draw cash at various ATM's, no money was given, but it was deducted from my bank balance (more than a month and nothing repaid - and I do not know which bank is the culprit). At a remote roadside ATM, the day before I arrived back in Pattaya, the machine swallowed my card (a week and a half later it was returned - and I was very hungry by that time).
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Now I am back at Leana's condo in Jomtien Beach, Pattaya. In almost 2 months I have cycled 4004 km, and arrived back here fairly unscathed, and with plenty of good experiences. Leana is not yet back home, having taken Janice and Chris on a bike tour.
Daily distances cycled on this excursion have been as follows:- Pong 76 km; Chonburi 72 km; Samut Prakan 45 km; Bangkok 55 km; (Ayuttaya by train); Tha Chang 78 km; Uthai Thani 88 km; Nakhon Sawan 51 km; Khampaeng Phet 123 km; Tak 94 km; Hilltop temple 81 km; Lampang 79 km; Chang Mai 121 km; Doi Kaeo 54 km; Bo Haeo 68 km; Han Nam Mo 108 km; Wang Phrokot 76 km; Nam Lao 116 km; Kok Bok 89 km; Thep Kiri 73 km; Udon Thani 87 km; Vientianne (Crossed border from Thailand to Laos) 124 km; District Villages 81 km; Phonhong 112 km; Vang Vieng 104 km; Viengmay 99 km; Namcheng 109 km; Vang Vieng (return) 101 km; Nagna 98 km; Khok Noy 110 km; Pao 94 km; Nongkeun 65 km; Pakkadan 52 km; Ban Na-In 76 km; Namdik 67 km; Nakhon Thong 63 km; Seno 74 km; Savannaket (and surrounds) 73 km; (Crossed back into Thailand at Mukdahan); Kuchinarai 96 km; Roi Et 69 km; Tatum 101 km; Surin 73 km; Nang Rong 98 km; Pa Kham (Alan & Mae) 41 km; Aranyaprathet 101 km; Phanom Sarakham 115 km; Chonburi 97 km; and Pattaya (Jomtien) 76 km. The total distance cycled in these 11 years is 155 614 km.
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Thai people revere their Royalty, and tributes are everywhere (such as these pics of the past and present kings).
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-18432086039655770412018-03-28T13:09:00.001+02:002018-03-30T06:20:05.150+02:00RETURN TO THAIHello, I am eventually back on line (this is ME, ERNEST, in case you have forgotten). I have been on the road for almost 2 months, riding the new "Horse". He is rather hard on my backside, therefore I have named him "SLEDGE-HAMMER". On this ride I have cycled some "new" routes, as well as places where I have cycled before. After 11 broken spokes, MAJOR gear problems, NO punctures, and 4004 km, I am back in Thailand. (Yes, I am still POORER than a CHURCH MOUSE). Please bear with me, as I am busy working on an update for this blog.
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And I am somewhat obsessed by the Mekong, one of the great rivers of the world.
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-23901805038168421712018-01-27T13:16:00.000+02:002018-03-30T06:13:46.182+02:00NEW HORSE ON THE BLOCKWell then, I won't mince words. I have a new horse (bicycle). Old Saartjie has "HIT THE FAN". It worked out too expensive to replace all the parts needed to get the Poor Old Nag up to standard. However, She served me well, clocking up over 150 000 km in almost eleven years.
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Thanks to a GOOD SAMARITAN who took pity on this poor bedraggled traveler, I thankfully now have a new (2nd hand) bicycle. No name yet, so let's just call it "The Horse" for now. It is time for me to get on the road again, now still at Leana's place in Pattaya. Good bye till next time.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-78898543004153264332018-01-10T08:08:00.000+02:002018-01-17T14:47:00.527+02:00BACK IN SIAM - ONCE AGAINOn a rainy Monday morning, 18 December 2017 (exactly a month after entering Malaysia) I left the country via the river bridge from Rantau Panjang to Sungai Kolok in Thailand.
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As is often the case, people on both sides of a country border are fairly similar regarding their culture. In this case, this region of Thailand is very Muslem (the rest of Thailand is very Buddhist). The Thai police patrol the roads in order to quell any Muslim uprising (there were bombs in Bangkok and HuaHin about a year ago). Apparently these people want a separate Muslem state from Thailand. It was raining all the time on the road here, as in Malaysia. The police escorted me for some time, to protect me from Islam I guess. (The police even gave me water and juice, and took pics of me, etc). Late PM my escort was lax, chatting to their mates at a check point, and I ducked into a mosque where I stayed comfortably for the night.
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On another evening I was looking out for an overnight spot, and I saw something. I turned in there and that "something" turned out to be where all the police were camping. Building work was still in progress, but it seems the place is intended to be some sort of livestock loading facility. Fine, these guys were very friendly. I already had my own dinner, but they gave me breakfast (different sections were competing to see who could cook the best breakfast).
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Then I got to Hat Yai on 21 December. I wanted to take the train that day because I had promised Pannee I would be back on the farm in Ubon by Xmas. After riding in the rain and smelling like a rat, I arrived at the Hat Yai train station about one hour before departure. I had to settle for 3rd class bench to Bangkok (20 hr), and another 3rd class onward to Ubon Ratchathani (12 hr). And then cycle to the farm close to Ban Trakan village in Ubon province, where I would re-unite with Pannee. Yes, it was a happy re-union for about one day. I had misgivings about going back, although Pannee did not know about that. But unfortunately I had to end this relationship, and I did. Reasons? Unfair to her that I could not support her and her children while she was on unpaid leave to be with me at the farm every time - I cannot properly support myself, even just on the bike!. I still love her, so this separation was hard for me to do. Pannee also did not accept it easily - anyway, I will spare you all the drama.
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Distances cycled since crossing from Malaysia back to Thailand have been:- Sai Buri 113 km; Pattani 83 km; Village Watt 74 km; Hat Yai 35 km; (2 days train via Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani); Ban Trakan (Pannee Farm) 55 km. Total cycled thus far is 150 798 km.
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On Xmas day, 25 December 2017, I was back on the road again. I was in very low spirits, and did not cycle very far each day for the next few days. Then I realised that I may actually feel better if I DO put in a bit more effort!
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The road was very busy (New Year), and even the fancy truck drivers would rather create an exhibit than to sit in that traffic.
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So I was on the road between Xmas and New Year. Thailand is Buddhist, so why all the Xmas rush?!! Also, Thai New Year is only in a couple of months?!! Anyway, Thai people like any kind of festival or celebration I guess.
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This is one of the temples where they did not want me to stay. The "boss" monk was away, and above all, there were "female monks" (or Nuns?). I had come up a very steep hill on my "broken" bike after a long day, and I camped outside the Watt gate (I could still get water, and use toilet inside!!?). Later a superior did come apologise and invite me inside, but no point to move then).
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So I made it to Leana's condo in Pattaya. Ok, Jomtien suburb if you do not like the name "Pattaya". Very nice place, and I am having a nice rest. Leana is not home - still on her way back from taking a client on a tour to Malaysia. My bike is a mess, and again my sister Olga has offered to sponsor the things I need most desperately (actually everything!).
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Therefore, more daily distances since leaving Pannee in Ubon. Not much to start with due to low spirits, etc. Here we go:- Lao Sua Kok (where I had a bad accident in Sept 2016); 40 km; Ubon village 59 km; Ban Nong Kok 39 km; Samrong Thap 65 km; Surin 57 km; Prakhon Chai 84 km; Choc Chai 103 km; Thai Samakki 75 km; Phanom Sarakham 95 km; Nho Samet 71 km; Khao Mai Kaeo 86 km; and Jomtien (Pattaya) 39 km. Total distance cycled to this point is 151 611 km.
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-60418227766368778012018-01-08T07:58:00.000+02:002018-01-17T02:59:28.564+02:00MALAYSIA REVISITED<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1Uf6aXIn9xQ/WlxAiMLjgoI/AAAAAAAAGLI/OZlO6KsBFIcufFyWoze_N35rMlWdg4OiACLcBGAs/s1600/P1250131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1Uf6aXIn9xQ/WlxAiMLjgoI/AAAAAAAAGLI/OZlO6KsBFIcufFyWoze_N35rMlWdg4OiACLcBGAs/s400/P1250131.JPG" width="258" height="400" data-original-width="1033" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div>
As you would have seen from my previous post, I had comfortably made it on 18 Nmovember 2017 from Thailand into Malaysia, the day before my Thai visa expired. I was done with all the immigration formalities by mid-day, so I didn't bother hanging around there. A huge culture difference here is that Malaysia is a Moslem country (Thai is Buddhist), and early AM in my tent at the Watt in Thai, I could hear the Imam from the Mosque across the border calling the faithful to prayer.
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From the border town of Padang Besar (2 towns with the same name on either side of the border line), I carried on South into Malaysia. The first 2 nights I camped at roadside restaurants, one closed for the night, and the other closed down. These places are handy for camping as there is water for washing and cooking, as well as a toilet somewhere close by. The people were also very friendly, and even offered me food (although I had my own). Within 3 days I was at Butterworth city, which is across the channel from Penang Island. I wanted to go to the Thai Consulate in Georgetown on Penang to apply for a new Thai visa.
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I did not want to cross to Penang that night, because I still had some way to go on the island to the place where I intended to camp. So I found an R&R at the Butterworth higway toll gate, conveniently right at the beach. (These "Rest and Recovery" areas came in handy when I was on highways all around Malaysia - bicycles are allowed on most of the highways, just follow the motorcyle channels around toll gates, etc.). There are shops, food courts, toilets and showers, and security at the R&R.
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While I was looking around the R&R I came across another scruffy-looking cyclist sitting at one of the beach-side gazebos, enjoying an early dinner. Constantin (yes, also from Russia) is a previous "Rock Star" - in his own words. He suffered a serious stroke, willed himself to recovery, and has spent the past 4 years cycling from Moscow to SE Asia. A couple of hours later, after I had set up camp and he had packed his bike, he was on his way again. He was going to cycle through the night to Alor Setar city, about 100 km. Some cyclists prefer to cycle at night in order to avoid the heat and the traffic (I avoid cycling at night after the accident I had Sept 2016).
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The following morning I took the ferry from mainland Butterworth to Georgetown on Penang island. There are 2 highway bridges to the island, but even the closest bridge is a long way around. The ferry is convenient, takes 20 minutes, is very cheap (and free return). After the ferry it was about 30 km around to Batu Ferringhi, on the North side of the island where I had camped 8 years ago. On arrival I was very pleased to discover that the old fishing platform high above the rocks was still there, and I set up camp.
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On my previous stay there I had injured myself by falling through the rotting wooden walkway. Now that wood had been removed, so entry to the platform involved balancing on a concrete beam (tricky at night when you need to go out for a pee!). The municipal office 20 m away was now open, with toilets and showers. The road workers there were done by mid-day and spent the rest of the time fishing around my camp (so I had "security" because I was mostly away during the day).
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Even at night I was not alone at my high camp. Prawn fisherman Zac had to wait until the tide was low enough for him to wade amongst the far rocks and cast his net. In the few days I spent camping there, Zac's starting time ranged from about 9PM to 2AM. A few hours chest-deep in the water for a Kg of prawn, and the rest of the day sleeping in his car (with his wife Anna).
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My main reason for coming to Penang had been to obtain a new Thailand visa. My sister Olga as usual offered to fund the cost, which turned out to be more than what I had anticipated. Since previously I now had to have an air ticket out of Thailand (pay agent for dummy ticket). This meant a few times from my camp to Georgetown and back. Luckily I had a good free place to stay.
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Probably the mainstay of agriculture in Malaysia is Palm Oil (I may be wrong, because there is also rice and fish and PETRONAS). This product is used instead of dairy and other fats in many foods. I took this pic just to show what a palm oil cluster looks like. At times, especially in the interior of the country, the road can become rather tedious because your view is limited to the oil palm groves lining the road for miles and miles and .....
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I had not been in Malaysia on the bike for any extent of time for 8 years. At that time I often stayed in rooms or hostels (with Leana). Nowadays I seek free camping and I did not know about that thing in this country (No Watts like in Thailand). But, thankfully, I did find it easy to camp in Malaysia. In this tropical region I always seek to camp under cover, with toilet and water close by (cook, drink, wash). I also prefer to camp close to people, for security and also all the reasons I just mentioned. And so I did find good camping, mostly at highway R&R, petrol stations, and the larger mosques. Other places I sometimes camped was at cemeteries, once at a Sikh crematorium, and again at small restaurants which had closed for the night (close to petrol stations, or bus station - for water and toilet).
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In the majority of Thailand it is now the DRY season (at least they have 2 seasons). It seems that in the South of Thailand and Malaysia they have not yet received the news about this being the DRY season. So I have had a lot of rain here in Malaysia, but it is not really cold. An exception was just after I had passed Kuala Lumpur going East up the big hills to Genting Highlands. I was exhausted, soaking wet from sweat, and there was a breeze. Not surprisingly, I have bacome acclimatized to the Thai conditions, so when the "mercury" drops to the low 20's C then I feel cold.
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Distances cycled since crossing the border from Thailand into Malaysia have been:- Kangar (Malaysia) 69 km; Guar Chempesak 68 km; Butterworth 74 km; Batu Ferringhi (Penang Island) 28 km; NW Penang 16 km; Tonjung Tolong 35 km; Georgetown 57 km; Visa Org. 51 km; Gurney 35 km; Bagan Ayam 30 km; Simphan Ampat 25 km; Simpang Lima 41 km; Simpang 48 km; Pantai Remis 64 km; Lekir 51 km; Teluk Intam Rd 48 km; Sekinchan (West Coast) 64 km; Kundang (Kuala Lumpur) 72 km; Genting 59 km; Temerloh 102 km; Gambang 72 km; Kuantan (East Coast) 69 km; Sungai Ular 47 km; Paka 79 km; Kampung Kelulut 76 km; Sungai Tong 71 km; Pasir Puteh 89 km; and Rantau Panjang (Malaysia side of border) 84 km. Total cycled thus far is 150 438 km.
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Exactly one month (on 18 December2017) after entering Malaysia, I exited. This is a border which I had not crossed previously, from Rantau Panjang (Malaysia) to Sungai Kolok (Thailand). This is in the NE of Malaysia, and I had entered into Malaysia at Pedang Besar in the NW. - - - - - OH! The picture above you ask? Yes, rubber trees. Out of season the cups are turned down, and later there will be a new shaving off the bark and the cups will face up.
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5103923259914734778.post-8607835246305202172018-01-06T07:50:00.000+02:002018-01-15T05:17:38.939+02:00ISAN TO MALAYSIA VISA RUNSo it was time for me to get on my bike and hit the road again. For new Thai visas I have been mostly going to nearby Laos, where the visa is minimal hassle and actually cheaper than in other neighbouring countries.
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You may wonder why I keep coming back to Thailand - well, obviouly there is Pannee, who attracts me back here after every bike stint. There are also other reasons to come back to Thailand, it is relatively cheap, easy to camp for free, good roads for biking, interesting, beautiful, and no remarkably big hills.
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So I said goodbye to Pannee and the farm, and I was on the road again. It was 18 October 2017 and I had exactly one month to reach the Malaysian border about 2000 km to the SW. From NE Thailand I first had to head West, skirting to the North of Bangkok. Then I had to turn South down the "Long Leg" of Thailand towards Malaysia.
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As usual, in Thailand I camped at the Buddhist temples (Watts). There are many of these temples, so about an hour before sunset I start looking out for a suitable Watt (that gives me time to ask permission, set up camp, wash, and dress - before "mosquito time" at dusk). Often it is still hot and humid at that time, so I would apply repellant cream instead of dressing up too much for the mozzies.
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The monks have only one official meal per day, breakfast. People from the community bring the food for the monks. Once the monks are done eating, the rest of the people can eat and they sometimes invite me to join them. Sometimes the monks themselves bring me food as in the 2 pics above (the flies on the first plate were added later - mozzies at night and flies at daytime).
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Leftovers (mainly rice) is given to the variety of animals usually present at a Watt (a certain travelling cyclist has also walked off with a bag or 2 of leftovers on occasion).
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At a big river close to Bang Lem town (NW of Bangkok) I saw a style of fishing which I had not seen before. Men were patiently sitting on the bridge railing, not with fishing rods, but with a type of "spear gun" (or cross bow?). They would shoot a big fish close to the surface and hold it in position while their mates let down a grapple hook on a rope with which they raise the fish up to the bridge. Apparently the restaurants pay handsomely for these fish. (My shoe is in the pic to give idea of scale).
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At the holiday beach town of Cha-Am I took a break for a couple of days. There are many hotels and guest houses here, but I found a good camp site at the Watt right beside their large fish pond.
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My time at Cha-Am co-incided with a major festival (Festival of Lights?). Candle lanterns were flown out over the ocean from the beach at night, and thousands of candle-lit flower decorations were floated out on the pond at the Watt (this pic of what it looked like on the pond the following morning).
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Sometimes I run low on funds, and then any type of food will make my mouth water. On one of those days there were many roadside stalls selling this Nonu fruit, and it looked so appealing! So I stopped at a stall and took some pics of the fruit. The lady in picture then gave me some fruit for free, as well as a bag of steamed corn-on-the-cobb. Just down the road I found some shady picnic chairs at a police station, and I had a wonderful unexpected lunch. I used the toilet inside, and also filled up on cold water, and the police came out and gave me a bottle of cold orange juice!
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Quite a few times (and mostly in Thailand) I have come across accidents where large trucks have left the road - on the side where I ride! Luckily I am still unscathed, but a few years ago 2 British cyclists died when they were hit by a pickup truck which left the road. I did however have plenty of bike troubles, involving all coggs and chains etc. - and a number of evenings were spent "beating out the flames" so that I could move on again in the morning. I also had big problems with wheel bearings, caused by ageing worn wheel hubs. I replaced bearings on both wheels, and on one occasion I had to stay over at a temple for a day to replace the complete front wheel hub (luckily I had a used spare). Fortunately I was camped off to one side and did not interfere with the daily activities. Also, it was pouring with rain, so not a bad day to be under cover and do some bike repairs.
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I met these 2 strapping Russian cyclists along the road in the South of Thailand. They are from an East Siberian city close to Mongolia. In their 1-month holiday they were travelling light and cycling from Hanoi to Singapore. I'm surprised that they even spotted me at the little shop where I was taking a break.
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On the afternoon of 17 November I arrived at the border town of Pedang Besar, and camped at one of 3 temples in this small town. The following morning at a money changer in the town I exchanged Thai Baht for Malaysian Ringit. Then I checked out of Thailand and crossed into Malaysia 1 month and almost 2000 km after leaving the farm in Isan. (My Thai visa expired the following day).
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Daily distances which I have cycled on this (long)leg have been:- Ban TaLad 66 km; Huaitun Tan 72 km; Tha Jum 75 km; Ban Anotai 86 km; Non Takat Kwaat 56 km; Non Phi Junction 77 km; Sikhio 78 km; Muak Lek 72 km; Phachi 71 km; Bang Pa-in 79 km; Bang Len 77 km; Potharam 83 km; Phetchaburi 91 km; Cha-Am 45 km; Pranburi 62 km; Prachuap Khiri Khan 77 km; Ban Sam Khum 78 km; Road Split Watt 64 km; Chumphon Ban 75 km; Lamae 81 km; Surat Thani 94 km; Wiang Sa 85 km; Nakhon Si Tammarat 82 km; Phattalung 80 km; Hat Yai 90 km; and Pedang Besar (Malaysia border) 69 km. Total distance so far is 148 814 km.
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Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12222431419788326179noreply@blogger.com1