Africa and Beyond - by Bicycle

EL RETORNO

2012-02-06T10:03:00.012-05:00

Here I am back in Bolivar city, in the centre of Venezuela, where I was more than 6 weeks ago. In that time I have cycled 3 494 km to Manaus on the Amazon river in Brasil (and back the same way again!). In the process my odometer clicked over to 90 000 km for this trip.Leana has been with me again since Manaus, so at least things are not exactly the same as they were on the way there. On the way South I’d been camping all the time, but thanks to Leana we have now stayed in rooms quite often on the return trip. Sometimes we did camp in the same places where I’d been before, meeting “old” friends again such as Antonio with Brasilian flag (we camped at his roadside bar). I also made some new friends, like the puppy in picture at the little roadside restaurant where I´d camped before the puppy arrived (the people there gave me free supper before, and now they did it again!). I’ve also seen some things which I missed on the way South, such as the impressive Kama Falls on the Gran Sabana (where we met the only other touring cyclist on this road – Czech ¨George¨ cycling off the beaten track from Alaska to the South). Oh yes, we crossed the Equator again on our way North (the 5th time for me). The weather hasn’t been the same either, and on the return trip we’ve experienced cooler weather, often with cloud cover and light rain during the day. So far we have been fortunate with the breeze in our favour much of the time as well. We also haven’t strangled each other yet, although I did notice Leana’s hands twitching once or twice! Now we’re taking a little break at Bolivar city on the giant Orinoco river, and we’re staying in a little backpacker hotel in the historic part of town next to the Plaza Bolivar and the historic cathedral (I’d rather not mention the gradient of the little hill we had to climb up in order to get here – my poor worn-out old bike Saartjie gave a few alarming spits and gulps on the way up!). I’m looking forward to the road from here onwards, as this is where we will cross the river bridge and head into new territory for a change! Daily distances cycled since my last report from Manaus are:- Da Rey 64 km; PresidenteFiguera 68 km; Da Tia 22 km; PostoAbonari 76 km; Vila Jundia 134 km; Nova Colina 98 km; Rorainopolis 43 km; Nova Paraiso 36 km; Carracarai 127 km; Mucajai 87 km; Bao Vista 63 km; Rosa De Saron 106 km; Vila Indigeno 92 km; Santa Elena (back in Venezuela) 40 km; San Francisco De Yuruani 72 km; Salto Kama 52 km; Las Claritas 120; El Dorado 93 km; Tumeremo 69 km; Guasipati 60 km; Upata 101 km; Puerto Ordaz 107 km; and Cd Bolivar 70 km. The total distance cycled so far in South America alone is 23 699 km, and the total distance for this trip so far is 90 186 km.

THE HEART OF THE AMAZON

2012-01-07T09:20:00.028-05:00

Well, surprise-surprise! Here I am in Brasil again, in the city of Manaus in the heart of the Amazon jungle. After crossing the border from Venezuela I had to keep pushing forward through the stifling tropical humidity over everlasting stretches of rolling hills and wetland jungle. I hardly noticed that Xmas and New Year came and went while I was in that surreal world. (Oh yes, a belated Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to you all). (Thanks to my sister Olga for the money she sent - meaning for me to buy a new camera for Xmas - however, I´m using that money for survival, along with the other funds she keeps sending me). I had also become extremely exhausted from carrying on for such a long time without taking some sort of a recovery break. Camping in this region also means sleeping in a pool of sweat every night. The frequent rain showers during the day are welcome though. In the town of Bao Vista I camped in a truck-yard frequented by various (other) down-and-outs. At 5 AM a group of pimps and prostitutes were taking their drugs behind my tent, and I also met another cyclist there (the dope-smoking Junior and his mascot dog Beatrice; I think he has more luggage on his bike than what I have!). In Vila Do Equador I was shown to the community centre where it would be no problem for me to camp, but the place turned out to be a rather interesting shelter for the homeless with nobody particularly in charge. As the name of the village indicates, it should be close to the equator and I kept asking where the line is (they all said it runs straight through the village). The following day I crossed the Equator 18 km South of town. In the Waimiri Indigenous territory I arrived at their admin camp after dark - and although they are very strict about allowing outsiders to stay in the area, they let me camp there. The next morning they even gave me breakfast, and I could take pic´s of the wild mackaws and parrots hanging about the kitchen door for scraps of food. The previous day I´d spotted a group of the tribespeople along the road, the men carrying spears and none of the bunch wearing much in the line of clothes (probably the reason for signs along the road prohibiting photography). Oh yes, I´ve also crossed the Equator again, for the 4th time. Well, I´ve eventually made it to the city of Manaus at the confluence of the Rio Negro and the Rio Madeira, officially forming the start of the mighty Amazon river. In case you were wondering what I came to do here, I´ve met up with Leana and her sister Amanda who took a boat up the river from the coast where they have been cycling. (Now, thanks to them, I´m sharing a hotel room with the 2 of them - my first room since Ecuador). Amanda returns home next week, so perhaps Leana will cycle back North with me from here. A big problem which I did have in the last 3 days or so, is that the parts on my bike all gave in (not surprisingly - chain, rear and front gear cogs, and so forth). So, for about 3 days before Manaus I was free-wheeling down the hills, and pushing the bike on the uphills. Fortunately Amanda does not need her bike right now because she is returning home, so thankfully I´ve scavanged whatever I could from her bike for the time being. Daily distances cycled since crossing the border into Brasil have been:- Half-Way camp 109 km; Bao Vista 111 km; Moura 58 km; Caracarai 86 km; Fishwater Camp 27 km; Nova Paraiso 100 km; Nova Colina 79 km; Vila Do Equador 55 km; Terrano Waimiri 123 km; Nova Jerusalem 80 km; Batia 50 km; Nova Parada 49 km; Paraiso Nova Vida 58 km; and Manaus 45 km. The total distance which I´ve cycled thus far in South America is 21 899 km, and the total so far on this yourney is 88 386 km.

THE GRAN SABANA

2011-12-19T14:16:00.006-05:00

In Central Venezuela I left the Orinoco River and headed in a Southerly direction towards the Gran Sabana and the famous Cainama National Park. In contrast to the rest of Venezuela where I´ve been so far, the Gran Sabana is a grassy highland fringed by flat-topped rocky mountains in the distance. I had to climb up to this area on a 30-km section of road aptly named La Escalator (fortunately it was raining as usual, so at least I didn´t overheat). Due to it´s altitude this region is also a bit cooler than the tropical lowlands. The Angel Falls are also in this park (although getting there involves taking a guided tour from a different place to where I was cycling). After turning South from the Orinoco I at first passed through some towns and farming countryside before getting to the Gran Sabana. Asking for directions from a group of men in one town where I arrived after dark, one man suggested that I camp amongst the scrap metal under a roofed area next to his house. He then proceeded to prepare an interesting dinner for me and himself amongst the tools and scrap metal in his kitchen, and offered me plenty of coffee which he served in a plastic margarine container (his overgrown back yard served as a toilet, which seems to be quite common in some rural areas of Venezuela). Petrol is dirt-cheap in Venezuela, and as a result there are many big old crab-walking American-model V-8 cars and trucks on the road. Drinking and driving seems to be a national sport, and in the National park where one can spot the litter in the roadside grass, I counted 235 empty beer cans in a single km only on one side of the road. I also amused myself in other ways, such as hanging dead snakes over my bike and taking pictures of them. Distances are given in hours (not km), and I´ve found that some people think I average about half the speed of a car! Whether I ask or not, I´m often informed that the road ahead is flat (plano), which it has never been. At the Southern extreme of the Gran Sabana is the Brasilian border, where I now find myself. Distances cycled on this section were:- Upata 92 km; Guasipati 114 km; El Dorado 105 km; San Isidro 104 km; Rio Kamoiran 84 km; San Francisco De Y. 81 km; Pacaraima (Brasil Bdr) 84 km. The total so far in South America is 20 869 km, and the total distance I´ve cycled so far on this trip is 87 356 km.

ORINOCO FLOW

2011-12-12T12:25:00.004-05:00

From Puerto Carreno in Columbia I had to cross the mouth of the Rio Meta in a small boat to Puerto Paez in Venezuela, and then I had to take the car ferry across the mighty Orinoco river. From there I could take the road East towards Bolivar city and central Venezuela. I stamped out of Columbia at the local immigration office in town, where I was informed that there was indeed a Venezuelan passport control point in Puerto Paez. Unfortunately there was no such thing, and I had to cycle 100 km South up the Orinoco river (and back) to Puerto Ayacucho where I could officially be stamped into Venezuela. (Finding the immigration office was a mission in itself, as the place was in a shed in the industrial area way out of town). Further, I was reliably informed that the road through this part of Venezuela was really good all the way to Bolivar city. On the contrary, the very rutted and poorly constructed tarred road comes and goes - with the unpaved sections easier to cycle on. Of course, in isolated areas there are usually lots of interesting people, and this area has been no exception. I´ve camped at farms, roadside bars, cock-fighting clubs, and in mud huts in small communities. One day I spotted a water tap at a bodega, and when I stopped there to fill up I met the 3 stooges in picture (they were working their way through a case of beer which they´d bought there, and insisted that I help them with the task). This route roughly followed the huge Orinoco river, and every day I crossed tributaries which are big rivers on their own. There are also some indigenous tribes living in the area, and one day I came across a group of men on bicycles, wearing their traditional g-strings (they wouldn´t let me take a picture of them). There´s not much in the line of road signs indicating distances, and the few such signs have been comically incorrect (one needs a sense of humour when distances indicated to the next town are 40 or 60 km short). However, without too much ado I´ve managed to reach Bolivar city, and soon I´ll start cycling in a Southerly direction. Daily distances cycled since I crossed the river from Columbia into Venezuela have been:- Pavoni 39 km; Puerto Ayacucho 76 km; Pavoni (return) 65 km; Tirital 80 km; Bicochuelo 94 km; Caicara 113 km; Maripa 103 km; Santa Jose Pao 104 km; Curiapo 104 km; Cd Bolivar 110. The total distance cycled so far in South America is 20 205 km, and the total for this trip is 86 692 km.

THE RIO META

2011-12-01T16:27:00.018-05:00

I was desparate to get some decent info before heading through Eastern Columbia along the Rio Meta towards Puerto Carreño and the Venezuelan border. I was aware that the river was widely used for transport, but due to the flood plains of this big Orinoco tributary the map indicated that I would usually be quite a distance from the water. However, locals don´t travel all the way along this route, and I was told that the road was anything from 200 to 350 km long (or just far). For 2 days I battled along a terrible bumpy and dusty road, and I found it better to cycle on paths alongside the road where possible. Then 2 things happened:- I branched off that road onto a series of jeep-tracks and footpaths, and the rain started. Often over the following days the water stood so deep that I couldn´t make out the track I should be cycling on. I had many spectacular falls during that time. There were also many times when I had to drag my poor old bike through sucking black swamps, destroying my sandles in the process. Unfortunately my camera didn´t survive all the falls and the water, so the last picture I took on this section is the one where my bike is lying in the road on a good day. However, a strange thing happened, and I picked up a Blackberry in the middle of nowhere the day after my camera broke (it seemed slightly damaged and didn´t seem to be in working order, but I kept it anyway). I lost my way quite a number of times, as it was often diffucult to decide which one of a maze of tracks was the actual highway. So much for complaining. This part of the country is cattle-ranching land, and I camped at farmsteads quite a number of times. I found the farm people and the cowboys to be wonderful people, and they were more than willing to accommodate me. Without fail I was offered food as well, usually before I could even pitch my tent (always under the cover of their roof, to shelter from the rain). There is only one proper town about half-way along this route, an interesting place called Prima Vera. I stopped in there to do some shopping, and before I knew it a crowd had gathered and I was being interviewed by the local TV channel who followed me all the way out of town with their cameras. All along the way I still couldn´t figure out how far the end of the road at Puerto Carreño was, so I just made sure that I had enough food with me for a few days, but clean drinking water started to become a problem in some isolated areas later on. I imagined that I was bullet-proof, and a few times I drank water from suspect sources. As can be expected, the suspect water took it´s toll and caused me to become extremely ill, not being able to take in any food or drink for a couple of days (eventually I collapsed at a farmhouse early one day, where I lay until the following morning when I felt strong enough to continue). After what seemed like forever, 750 km later, I rolled into Puerto Carreño where the local Fire Brigade have been happy to evacuate an office where I´ve been able to camp for a couple of days. Further, I´ve been able to charge the battery of the Blackberry which I´d picked up, and I was happy to find that at least the camera still works (so I am able to take some simple pictures). Daily distances cycled since I last reported distances from Cali have been:- Andalucia 122 km; Armenia 90 km; Cajamarca 37 km; Ibague 78 km; Fusa 103 km; Bogota 63 km; Villavicencio 90 km; Puerto Lopez 109 km; Puerto Gaitan 115 km; Matanegra 57 km; Karim Aguas 54 km; Finca Carillo 68 km; Finca Marabre 44 km; Finca Virgen 58 km; Prima Vera 31 km; Santa Barbara 60 km; Antiguaneuvo 56 km; La Vendicion 74 km; Rio El Chiqui Chaque 62 km; La Esperanza 46 km; Finca Tienda 65 km; Puerto Carreño 75 km. The total distance cycled in South America to date is 19 317 km, and total for the trip is 85 804 km.

LA LINEA

2011-11-16T16:26:00.004-05:00

I´d had a nice 2 days rest in Cali, South Western Columbia, where I had enjoyed the hospitality of Miller and his family at their Casa De Ciclistas (the morning I left Miller wasn´t there to see me off, and the girl in picture is an Argentinian cyclist who arrived the day after I did). From Cali most touring cyclists head roughly North via Medellin to Cartagena on the Columbian Carribean coast. However, I took a major diversion, heading East towards the Andes Range again, and to the capital of Columbia, Bogota. Before reaching the Andes I cycled through the picturesque coffee-growing area around the town of Armenia, where I camped in the rain in a field close to a farm house (and the people came out with supper for me, as well as breakfast the following morning). Then it was the mean steep climb in the rain up the Mountains again - called La Linea in these parts. As if the hill wasn´t enough, I has some trouble with punctures, going through all my spare tubes in the process. Just after the summit at an altitude of 3 300 m I had to repair a tube, and I took shelter in the simple house of some mountain people in order to do the job (they were very friendly and excited about this chance visit, they called me ¨Señor¨and kept offering me coffee). But that wasn´t the end of the mountains! Typically the road went way down again past Ibaque, and then I had to climb up to Bogota which is situated at an altitude of 2 600 metres. It was raining again as usual, but I found refuge at the wonderful La Candilara branch of the Fire Brigade (they moved one of their trucks so I could camp in the garage, they gave me food, and when I left the following morning I was presented with an official Bogota Fire Brigade T-shirt and cap). After another climb out of the city, the road dropped from 3 000 metres to an altitude of 100 m in about 100 km to the city of Villavicencio. From Villavicencio I had a wonderful new flat road of about 200 km to the bustling river port town, called Puerto Gaitan. I knew that my good-road experience was about to end, but nobody could give me any decent info on what lay ahead to the East. I bought 2 off-road tyres anyway, because I had a feeling that I would need them. (Cycling distances are included in the following post).

CROSSING THE LINE

2011-11-08T13:27:00.019-05:00

Regardless of all the lines which I've crossed which I shouldn't have crossed, I've now crossed the EQUATOR for the third time. The first crossing was on my way North in Kenya, and the second crossing going South in Sumatra (I actually missed the line and didn't even get a photo). Anyway, in this case my North-bound route crossed the line a number of times as the road snaked through the hilly Ecuadorian landscape, and I was so keen not to miss it again that I found myself taking pic's of the bike in the middle of nowhere (the GPS indicated 0 degrees). However, eventually there was a monument and a large sun-dial laid out in stone, and all the paraphanalia that goes with it. Other lines which I've crossed on this trip have been the Tropic of Capricorn (3 times), and the Tropic of Cancer (8 times). Anyway, my last report was from Quito where I was staying at the Casa De Cyclistas in the city (Carlos, Daniel, and Santiago, with dogs in pic). From there Hannes, Annelies, and myself did a short hop down to Tumbaco where we stayed at another "Casa" owned by another Santiago (in picture still in his pajamas) - I was his first South African guest in the 20 years he's been hosting touring cyclists. The garden was spacious, so Hannes stoked up a braai (Argentinian style ASADO). From there we followed a cycle track which runs along a disused railroad for about 40 km (very nice, no traffic, beautiful scenery and even a number of nice dark tunnels). At Otavalo I said goodbye to my cycle companions, and subsequently crossed another line - the border from Ecuador into Columbia. In the hilly South of Columbia I met a number of other cyclists including Marta from Poland and her Argentinian companion in picture. I also met a group of 3 Columbian cyclists on the day when I reached Cali (2 days ago). I've been staying in Miller's Casa De Cyclistas in Cali, and although I was planning to move on this morning it was raining so persistently that I decided to stay and visit the Internet Cafe. Talk about rain, there is no shortage of it here with the daily (or nightly) thunderstorms. I've been camping all along, and in order to ecape the rain I've stayed in some interesting places such as schools, military check-posts, and road-work camps. On the first night after crossing into Columbia I asked to camp in a field next to a "village" farm house, and the family showed me to camp in the back yard which they considered to be safer. There I spent the night in close quarters with a barking dog, a grunting cow in labour, a goat, two cats, geese and chickens, and cages full of guinae pigs. The matriarch of the Baez family was in charge of the place, and in addition to doing farm-work, the grown daughters also did quite well in having children from foreign men (mostly South Americans). I was given a good breakfast the following morning, and although they may have been hinting at a South African addition to the family, I was feeling a bit too worn-out from a restless night amongst all those animals! From Cali I'll probably head off tomorrow in a North-easterly direction towards Bogota (over the Andes again!). Daily distances cycled since Quito have been:- Tumbaco 17 km; Quinche 44 km; Otavalo 76 km; Bolivar 95 km; Ipiales 84 km; Cebadal 57 km; Bridge Camp 73 km; Patia 102 km; Paraga 55 km; Popayan 68 km; and Cali 125 km. The total distance which I've cycled so far in South America is 17 760 km, and the total distance which I've cycled on this journey is 84 247 km.

VULCANO-LAND

2011-10-24T12:59:00.007-05:00

The town of Baños (where I ended my last report) is already a fair way up between the Amazon Basin and the Central Highlands of Ecuador, and as the three of us cycled onwards we were entertained by views of the smoking vulcano which we were leaving behind (Phillip and Isa had gone ahead the previous day). As we moved North the road took us past a number of other high mountains, mostly vulcanos. One of the mountains we passed is the extinct Vulcan Chimborazo, and at well over 6000 metres above sea level it is the highest mountain in Ecuador (and due to the equatorial bulge it's summit is the furthest point from the centre of the earth). However, the second-highest mountain, Vulcan Cotopaxi, is by far the most spectacular (and at nearly 6000 m it is apparently the highest active vulcano in the world). Therefore we made a diversion off the paved roads into the Cotapaxi National Park. Once again, with my narrow pavement tyres I had lots of "fun" climbing up the rather poor gravel road into the Park where we camped at an altitude of close to 4000 m (fortunately there was a hut in which we could camp, as there was a freezing wind blowing). We were very fortunate that the day was perfect with blue sky, so I took about a million photo's of that mountain. The following morning was also OK, but soon the clouds rolled in again, obscuring most of the vulcano as we looked back. On that day we had to descend down towards the Pan Americana again, firstly on a terrible gravel road, and then for about 10 km on a slippery uneven cobblestone "Big Dipper" (even though I was constantly on the brakes I still suffered a broken spoke). Then it was Northwards on the Pan Am highway, and now eventually I've arrived in the capital of Ecuador, Quito. There is a new part to the city, but the Old Historic Centre is quite wonderful to see. For the past few days Hannes, Annelies and myself have been staying in the new Casa De Cyclistas in the new part of town, where we met up with Phillip and Isa again. We'll probably move on tomorrow to another Casa De Cyclistas a few k's outside Quito, and stay there for a couple of days before heading North to the equator about 20 km away. Daily distances cycled since Cuenca have been:- Palmas 82 km; Mt Camp 60 km; Mendez 42 km; Macas 79 km; Puente Pastaza 66 km; Puyo 69 km; Baños 62 km; Pillaro 47 km; Laso 58 km; Cotapaxi NP 28 km; Machachi 39 km; and Quito 44 km. The total distance cycled in South America so far is 16 964 km, and the total distance which I've cycled so far on this journey is 83 451 km.

EL ORIENTE

2011-10-16T17:49:00.002-05:00

From the Southern Highland city of Cuenca I cycled East down to the Upper Amazon basin of Ecuador (known as El Oriente locally). I'd arrived in Cuenca together with fellow cyclists Hannes and Annelies, and on leaving Quenca we were joined by Swiss cyclists Phillip and Isa. To say that we cycled "down" to the Oriente is not completely correct - it was rather a case of "ups and downs". The scenery along the way was spectacular, although often the hills were very steep and the road was unpaved in sections. The first mountainous part was through luscious cloud-forest, with it's accompanying mist and rain. Once down in the Amazon Basin the climate was quite different to that of the highlands, and I hadn't experienced that type of heat and humidity since Eastern Bolivia some months ago. However, it was a nice change, cycling through the tropical forest with all sorts of exotic flowering plants. We camped once in the rain, but stayed over mostly in village hostals. Once we were fortunate to camp inside a disused restaurant, as it really stormed during the night. While on the subject, I'll reply to Peter Z's curiosity as to why one would want to camp inside a building. In this case we were in the tropics, so the tent keeps out all the bugs such as mosquito's, sand flies, and spiders. Camping inside a school literally puts you in the eyes as the kids stare through the windows, so the tent allows for some privacy when changing clothes, etc. At high altitude the tent lends additional insulation agains the cold, and if it rains then at least a person is not confined to the tent - you can sit outside to cook and socialise. If I camp in the same spot for a few days (such as on the old fishing platform in Penang) then the roof protects the tent from baking in the sun, and when I walked off to the shops I could secure my belongings inside the tent. So, generally, camping inside is what I call "easy camping". My cycling companions are early risers so they usually leave before me in the mornings and I catch up with them later. As a result I was on my own for a day or two after somehow losing the others along the way. From the town of Puyo we climbed up again towards Baños and the Central Highlands of Ecuador. Baños is a very touristy town, and there are hordes of Gringo's as well as local tourists. The town derives it's name from the local hot springs, and there is also a huge smoking vulcano looming overhead. All manner of amusement equipment is for hire, and as I cycled up from Puyo I was passed in the opposite direction by swarms of Gringo's wearing river-rafting helmets and barreling downhill on rented mountainbikes. Next I'll be heading North through the vulcano-studded Central Highlands.

THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS

2011-10-05T11:33:00.013-05:00

I don't seem to be able to get away from the Andes Mountains, and so far in the Southern Highlands of Ecuador it has been an up and down affair. I've reached the "Charming City", and third-largest in Ecuador, Cuenca. The city centre of Cuenca is truly beautiful, It is on the banks of a small river, and there are many wonderful historic buildings (many of them are impressive churches). In Loja I'd met up with cycling friends Hannes and Annelies, but while I waited for my new bank card to be delivered they moved on. From Loja I took a small dirt road for the first section North, which was reportedly more scenic than the main road, and there were interesting tribal people in the area (the men wear their hair long in plats or pony-tails, so if it wasn't for my beard I may have fitted in there). However, the weather had been rainy for the previous few days, and I had some fun in the mud with my loaded bike on narrow slick tyres. Further North I met up with my two friends again, after they had sheltered from the rain for a couple of days. In the village of La Paz we camped in a school room in exchange for a donation to the school Xmas fund. Before we even unpacked the bikes Hannes had organised a football game with the kids, and of course I was roped in as well. Some time into the game I picked up an "injury", and was replaced by a more effective player half my size and one-fifth my age. Talk about size, it may sound unbelievable but when I walk down the city streets I've noted that most of the people are shorter than me. In this region it is also rather unfortunate to be a pig, because pigs are being barbequed and cooked in all different ways in roadside stalls. I've been relaxing in Cuenca now for a few days, and tomorrow the three of us intend to cycle down to the Amazon basin (known as the Oriente)towards the East of the mountains, which hopefully will be a nice change of scenery. Daily distances cycled since Trujillo in Peru have been:- Huanchaco 14 km; Dios (+30 km police lift) 93 km; Chiclayo 92 km; Olmos 110 km; La Matanza 104 km; Piura 68 km; Las Lomas 119 km; Macara 57 km; Languche 59 km; Catacocha 37 km; Catamayo 61 km; Loja 39 km; Saraguro 64 km; Ona 38 km; La Paz Pueblo 39 km; and Cuenca 72 km. The total distance cycled so far in South America is 16 288 km, and the total distance cycled so far on this trip is 82 775 km.

ADIOS PERU, HOLA ECUADOR

2011-09-27T11:31:00.002-05:00

Since my last report from Trujillo, I've left Peru behind and cycled North across the border into Ecuador. But first let me start where I left off last time. I was at Lucho's famous Casa De Cyclistas in Trujillo, Peru. There I made new friends, Germans Marcus and Dorothy on their way South, and I also met up with Hannes and Annelies who I'd met earlier on the road close to Cuzco. After a photo session with Lucho in front of his Casa, the five of us cycled to the nearby Huanchaco beach where I'd already been, and we had a couple of relaxing days there. From there I headed North alone on the infamous section of road, notorious for armed robberies on touring cyclists. For most of the first day I was escorted by the highway police (at one stage they even stopped a pickup truck and loaded me up for about 30 km). In Chiclayo I found the local Casa De cyclistas where I camped in the yard amongst the chickens and guinae pigs. Further North I met local cycling enthusiast Juan Carlos, who stopped to chat (although the conversation was rather limited, he spoke no English and my Spanish still leaves a lot to be desired. In the city of Piura I stayed over for a day, and then disaster struck. My bank card was swallowed by an ATM, and when I eventually got the bank to open up the machine my card was not inside. Fortunately my sister Olga wired me some money via Western Union, so I could at least pay my rent and stay alive until I could organise a new card. I had to get a SIM card for my phone, and spent about 80 dollars more phoning Nedbank in South Africa to block my account and order a new card for delivery in Ecuador where I was heading next. So I had to spend another couple of days in Piura, which turned out not too badly as It is quite an interesting non-touristy city with an amazing huge market (one can buy anything from bicyles to day-old chickens there). I got to Ecuador OK, and there I was soon into the big mountains again. Perhaps I didn't look all that great, because the vultures seemed to be following me along, roosting in the roadside trees. I had to wait a few days here in Loga for the new bank card, which was miraculously delivered (adressed to Loja, South America). Loja is quite an attractive historic small city. So far I also quite like the Ecuadorians, and things here seem a little more relaxed than in Peru. From here I will head North through the mountains again.

THE CORDILLERA BLANCA

2011-09-01T17:00:00.002-05:00

After heading North from Lima through the desert, I couldn't wait to get away from the damp foggy coast. I had been intending to cycle via Huaraz (the "Adventure Capital" of Peru), and as soon as I could I headed for the hills again. Initially the climb followed a river valley, and again I noted that the desert is actually quite fertile if there is irrigation water. The dry ground is also a handy space for drying crops such as maize and paprika. So, once more I climbed to over four thousand metres before descending a bit to Huaraz, at the foot of the beautiful snowy Cordillera Blanca (still part of the Andes). There are apparently 22 peaks in this range of more than six thousand metres (including the highest in Peru), so trekkers and climbers tend to make their base in Huaraz. There I camped for a week at the popular Jo's Place hostel, where I enjoyed the company of a number of other cyclists and climbers. Eventually it was time to leave, and I headed back to the coast via the spectacular Santa Rosa River Canyon. However the road is unpaved, bumpy, narrow, and dusty, with about 40 hair-raising tunnels. I'd heard a lot about Lucho's Casa De Cyclistas in the city of Trujillo, but the day I finally arrived there, nobody was home. So I went to the nearby Huanchaco beach where I found a nice cheap hostal for a few days rest (the weather is also better than around Lima - the fog clears in the afternoon). Luckily I did find some life at the "Casa" on my return to Trujillo, and it's a good place to pay some attention to the bike (Lucho has a small workshop and loads of spares - mostly 2nd hand). The historic centre of the city is quite interesting, with many attractive colonial buildings. However, the road for some distance to the North is a bit of a gauntlet for cyclists - lots of reported armed robberies. I'll have to see how it goes when I leave. Daily distances cycled since Lima have been:- Lancay Nat Pk 102 km; Pativilco 104 km; Valley Camp 74 km; Cajacay 26 km; Junction Village 33 km; Huaraz 86 km; Caraz 71 km; Canyon Camp 1 74 km; Camp 2 41 km; Chao 120 km; Huanchaco 84 km; and Trujillo 16 km. Total in South America so far is 15 222 km. Total distance cycled on this trip is 81 709 km.

THE TALE OF A TYRE

2011-08-31T15:31:00.002-05:00

I would have preferred the tyre to tell this story. However, the tyre in question has now perished, and I'm the only other who knows the full epic. (If you have no interest in bicycle tyre performance, then you may choose to skip this post). Anyway, the story started in Australia where I was having a few tyre problems towards the end of the Outback crossing. Finally I found a set of decent Continentals in Adelaide, which Leana kindly bought for me. A thousand km's later in Melbourne I was somewhat disappointed to note that the rear Conti was already showing some wear, and I swapped the two around. After another two thousand k's in Puerto Montt, Chile, the orange puncture-proof layer was starting to show, and I dumped both tyres in the garage of the rickety hospedaje where I was staying. There I bought some sturdy Vietnamese tyres as well as a set of knobbly's - all in preparation of the bad road I was expecting to the South in Patagonia. After arriving back in that rickety hospedaje a month later, the knobbly's were finished and the fat Vietnamese were on their last legs. I reluctantly retrieved the better of the two Continentals from the garage where they were collecting dust, just in case I needed it as a spare on the way to Santiago. In Santiago I found 2 good-looking Kenda's, so I fitted one on the back wheel and kept the other as a spare (I also fitted the Continental to the front wheel, so it got a new life after 3 thousand km's). I was somewhat optimistically hoping to get across the Andes and Argentina to Buenos Ayres where I thought I should find some decent tyres. I was amazed that the Conti just kept going up the coast to Brazil, and by the time I reached Rio De Janeiro both the Kenda's had blown out the side-wall, and I had some Brazilian tyre on the back which kept getting punctured by truck-tyre debris. In the interior of Brazil I bought 3 fat Wanda King tyres (never heard of them before, and would rather not hear of them again). I'd become rather attached to the Continental on the front wheel, so I fitted one of the "Kings" to the back and kept the other 2 as spares (they each lasted just over 1000 km on the back wheel). In Lima the Continental went on the back, as I'd found some slim OK-ish tyre for the front. Everything seemed to be going well, but after Huaraz I hit the bad road via the spectacular Santa Rosa river canyon back to the coast. This was too much for the old Conti road tyre, and she waited patiently until I'd found a nice camp site before blowing through a cut in her side. At least that was a suitable spot as a last resting place for a tyre which had initially been treated shabbily, but had then performed it's duty. Also on that canyon road I met Jurgen from Germany cycling in the opposite direction (he'd apparently had his own share of tyre troubles). We swapped camera's and had some fun taking pic's of each other - in the process I failed to get a photo of him. On the second day of the Canyon road I met Australians Jules and Megan, who seemed to be going along just fine (both them and Jurgen had been cycling South since Alaska). I thought I'd also mention the two Belgians on their reclining bikes (Julian and Lori), who I'd met after they had already completed the bad section (with about 40 narrow dusty tunnels). Now I'm staying at the Casa De Cyclistas in Trujillo, and I still need to take a look to see if the owner (Lucho) perhaps has a decent tyre for me to carry on with. I'm still missing that old Conti, who in the end lasted for nearly 15 000 km, all with only one single puncture!

THE PACIFIC DESERT COAST

2011-08-06T18:31:00.022-05:00

So, I`ve reached the Pacific coast and the foggy/dusty big desert-city called Lima (population around 9 million). After my last report from Nazca I wafted North through the desert, camping a few times with a dry bush or so for shelter from the pm breeze. I made a turn in the first coastal town (the touristy Paracas), after giving Huaracina a miss (this sand-dune oasis was overrun with locals at the start of a fiesta long-weekend. Along the road going the other way I met 4 bearded Russian cyclists, and cyclist Chang from Taiwan (cooking his lunchtime noodles at a bus-stop - see pic). That lot obviously had as much info regarding Peruvian holidays as me, so nobody warned me about the booked-out accommodation (the dunes around Huaracina looked like piles of sugar infested by ants). Later I also met Hector from Columbia cycling in the opposite direction, with heavy bike and trailer! In Pisco it was good to meet up with Jack from San Francisco - he is voluneering in the earthquake rebuilding effort (Leana and I had met him just before leaving Rio De Janeiro, and now I re-connected with him for dinner and a drink, poor-man style of course). Things tend to repeat themselves as I travel, and this Pacific coastal region is quite similar to Egypt (a long way off!). Firstly the road along the desert coast since Nazca has been similar to the highway in Egypt along the Red Sea coast (a major difference has been the breeze in my favour here). At this time of year (winter/dry season) there is a continuous dusty fog, and I pack up a wet tent every morning after camping. In Lima, instead of going to the Gringo Backpacker district of Miraflores, I opted for the historic city centre of Lima (still plenty of Gringo`s). The city is not a High-rise affair, with mostly colonial-style "heavy" buildings around (only a few scattered modern towers). Even the Hostal where I have a tiny 3rd floor room off the open vined deck is a bit of a museum. The walls downstairs are adorned with heavy paintings and statues. One can find everything here, but I`m still searching for the promised hot shower. Another similarity with Egypt (and Cairo in particular), is the fog, and it is an easy place in which to get lost - "non-rectangular" street patterns. The gloomy sky and uncouth traffic didn`t make me feel particularly welcome as I made my way into the city, but I felt a bit better when a highway patrol car made a welcoming announcement and waved at me - this happened again a few k`s later (not the same car!). Since I've been here I bought new tyres for Old Saartjie (much needed), and tomorrow I`ll proceed North. Daily distances I`ve cycled have been as follows: Desert Camp 87 km; Guyadalupe 90 km; Paracas 60 km; Pisco 17 km; Cerro Azul 109 km; Lurin 100 km; and Lima 46 km. The total distance I`ve cycled in South America so far is 14 391 km. Total on this trip is 80 878 km.

THE NAZCA LINES

2011-07-27T13:44:00.014-05:00

Yes, I'm in Nazca Peru, famous for the ancient lines in the desert. But first I had to get to Nazca from inland where I posted my previous report, and that is what this story is about. From the town of Abancay I first dropped down to 2000 m before gradually climbing up the Apurimac river gorge. Along the way I camped in some nice places, and I also stayed in very basic accommodation reminiscent of Ethiopia or India. Then I climbed steeply to a long plateau which varied in altitude from about 4200 metres to over 4500 m. There were some interesting geological features, as well as salt crystals formed by the mineral water dripping down the roadside embankment. In the late afternoon somewhere along the plateau I found Pampamarca village, where I spent the freezing night in an unhygienic mud-hut room at 4200 m. The following morning I was not at my best, I felt sluggish, and not in the mood for uphills. In the past couple of months I'd spent a lot of time at high altitude, so I was not too concerned about my health. However, immediately after leaving the village the road climbed again, much to my discomfort. Soon after checking my GPS at 4560 metres it hit me - ALTITUDE SICKNESS. The dull headache I'd had all morning turned nasty, I felt nauseous, weak, and shaky. The day turned into a miserable, drawn-out effort. For the next 50 km I somehow managed to drag myself along that desolate undulating plateau. The herds of llama along the way with their comical faces no longer interested me, and when scarce wild Vicuna's crossed my path just metres ahead I couldn´t even be bothered to take a picture. Fortunately, somewhere on the subsequent 45 km downhill to Puquio I miraculously recovered, and as a measure of comfort I booked into a nice room in the town. I walked around the bustling streets and bought all sorts of goodies at the markets for my dinner. Later, after a long hot shower I was sitting between clean sheets watching TV - and try as I might, I couldn't re-create the misery of the day in my mind, I was just too far removed! The following day I again climbed to a high plateau, where I camped for the night at over 4000 metres. Except for the cold, I felt strong and healthy (I had to keep my drinking water in the tent with me to prevent it from freezing). The following morning while I was packing my bike 2 Swiss cyclists arrived from the opposite direction, having taken 3 days to cycle the 100 km from Nazca. It took me only 3 and a half hours to reach Nazca (including taking lots of pic's and repairing a puncture). After a gradual descent along the plateau I suddenly dropped off the edge of the World! I descended the 3500 metres from desert mountain to coastal desert in a hair-raising winding dive of about 60 km. So, now I get back to Nazca, famous for it's ancient lines in the desert. I probably won't be seeing those lines, as I draw the line on extravagance before taking an airplane flight to see lines on the ground. When I leave this town I'll cycle past a viewing tower, but apparently even from there one has to use your imagination in order to make out the figures represented by the lines. On the bright side, I haven't been down at this altitude since Eastern Bolivia, and it feels as though I'm breathing pure Oxygen and bouncing around on springs! I'm not yet at the Pacific Ocean, as the road now runs parallel to the coast for a while, but I'll get there before my next report. Daily distances cycled since Abancay have been: Santa Rosa 72 km; Mt Stream Camp 85 km; Pampamarca 51 km; Puquio 108 km; Pampa Galeras Nat Pk 64 km; and Nazca 98 km. The total distance cycled in South America so far is 13 882 km, and the total distance I've cycled on this trip is 80 369 km.

THE GRINGO PEDALS PERU

2011-07-20T15:06:00.020-05:00

PLEASE SEE PREVIOUS POST FOR MACCHU PICHU. In Africa I was a Mzungu, but in this region a foreigner is referred to as a Gringo. Since my last report "The Gringo" left Lake Titicaca into the cold breeze along the desolate Altiplano - at least for the first few days. Along the way I met up with Israeli´s Amit and Shohan, and I was mostly in their company until we reached Cuzco where their South American cycle ended. In the process we crossed the La Raya mountain pass at 4360 m, before descending to Cuzco at 3300 m over the next couple of days. Shortly after the pass there was a rustic hot-spring, and it was quite enjoyable to float in the warm pool while admiring the surrounding snowy peaks. Cuzco is a very touristy city which was initially the Inca capital before being conquered by the Spanish - which gives it a rather European colonial character (and there are perhaps more tourists than locals). I stayed at La Estrellita, a cheap hostal popular amongst cyclists - and there were a number of us in residence. Of course, the renowned Macchu Pichu Inca ruins is not far away from Cuzco, and I too was compelled to visit the site (SEE PRVIOUS POST REGARDING MY VISIT TO MACCHU PICHU). I was planning to return to Cuzco, but I found a small dirt-road shortcut which linked up with the route I was planning to cycle, so I gave a second visit to Cuzco a miss. At the end of that day I was checking out a camping spot in the twilight, when I discovered 2 cyclists already camping there - Austrian/Swiss couple Hannes and Annelies. We´ve stayed in the same places for the past couple of days, except for one day when I had 5 punctures and camped alone up in the mountains. There are big mountains to cross, and I´ve now dropped and climbed more than 2000 m at a time. There was an added amount of excitement coming down the 35 km zig-zag decent yesterday from 4000 m in the rain with hardly any brakes left. Now I´m in a room in a big local town called Abancay, taking the day off to do this "Internet Thing", which feels like a job at times (I hope someone still reads this). When I leave here tomorrow I´ll be on my own again, as my 2 companions will be taking a different route. Daily distances cycled since Puno have been:- Juliaca 44 km; Pucara 65 km; Santa Rosa 75 km; Sicuani 72 km; Urcos 99 km; Cuzco 49 km; Ollantaytambo 86 km; Limatambo Mt Camp 62 km; Rio Apurimac 57 km; Curawasi Mt Camp 39 km; and Abancay 53 km. The total distance cycled in South America so far is 13 404 km, and the total distance cycled on this journey is 79 891 km.

MARCHING TO MACCHU PICHU

2011-07-20T14:10:00.015-05:00

Afer leaving Lake Titicaca and the Andes Altiplano, the road led me to the touristy city of Cuzco. This city was the centre of the Inca Empire before the Spanish conquered it and erected their own colonial city on the Inca foundations. The Spanish used rocks from Inca structures to build huge cathedrals, and there is one around every corner. Some of the steep narrow streets in the city are still lined with Inca-built stone walls, and there are some ruin-sites around the area. However, possibly the biggest tourist attraction in South-America is Macchu Pichu, the ruins of an Inca citadel high up on a remote mountain - and re-discovered exactly 100 years ago. It seemed to me that it would be a disgrace to be in the area and not pay a visit to THE PLACE. However, we are now talking about "Richman" tourist territory, and I´m hardly in that class. The only access is by train (fancy trains run the 110 km route all the way from Cuzco, and cheaper trains run the 40-odd k´s from the end of the road - although none of them are cheap). There is also, of course, the Inca Trail and various other costly ways of getting to Macchu Pichu. After consultation with various other economically challenged people, I decided to do the "Poor-Man´s" Inca trail. I cycled from Cuzco to the end of the road at Ollantaytambo where I left my bike (Old Saartjie) in the hostal where I spent that night. The following day I packed a backpack and walked along the railway line to the touristy town of Aguas Calientes down in the valley, where the railway terminates and all the tourists must pass through. I was under the impression that the walk would be twenty-something km, but it turned out to be at least 40 k´s. Initially I enjoyed walking through the villages, and there were even a few Inca ruins along the way (free, and no other people). BUT WHAT WAS I THINKING!? For more than 4 years I have hardly been on my feet! After 10 hours I hobbled into the terminal train station, having struggled along the tricky line for an hour in the dark - dodging trains and trying not to disappear down the eroded embankment into the raging river. In the station the platform guard demanded to see my ticket (if I was feeling any stronger I may be languishing in a Peruvian prison right now). First thing the next morning I went to enquire about a return train ticket, as I hadn´t been in such self-imposed physical distress since my ultra-marathon days. While I was standing at the ticket counter debating the dilemma, the big blister under my foot burst, making for an easy decision. The train ticket costed the equivalent of 6 days accommodation, and I had to stay for another 2 days for the next available seat. At least that gave me a day to sit with my feet up before I climbed the stone stairs up the mountain to Macchu Pichu early the following morning. The entry ticket to the site was also quite costly (the whole thing seemed to be a big tourist trap). Anyway, once through the entrance gate I felt a sense of anticipation, and it was quite exhilirating to round a corner and catch a glimpse of the famous ruins through the early-morning cloudy mist. At that stage there seemed to be an eery dignity about the place, and there were not many people there yet. The site was bigger than I´d expected, and I wandered around amongst the ruins for a couple of hours until the sky had cleared enough for a photo of the citadel from the high terraces. However, by that time the trains had been rolling into the staion down below, the busses had been snaking up the mountainside, and the crowds had been pouring in. There were traffic jams, marshalls were blowing whistles to regulate crowd flow, and the atmosphere was that of a football match. I regained my composure in the forest on my way back down the stone stairs. I felt an intense longing for Old Saartjie and the rest of my worn-out belongings. After the train trip the following morning I was pleased to find everything just as I´d left it, and I spent the rest of the peaceful day doing laundry and re-packing my bags.

HIGH TIDE

2011-07-03T15:52:00.020-05:00

Lake Titicaca, which straddles the Bolivia/Peru border, is the world`s largest high-altitude lake (also referred to as the highest navigable lake). The lake located towards the NW end of the Andes high plains, and is at an altitude of over 3800 m above sea level. After the climb out of La Paz city back up to the Altiplano, I made it to the lake shores by evening. Since then I`ve cycled more than 200 km along the lake, taking one of the many suspect-looking ferries over a channel along the way. There are a couple of decent hills along the way, taking the road up as high as 4300 metres (good views of the Andes peaks in the background). On the first day along the lake shore I didn`t make much headway, taking photo`s but there was also some festival going on in a number of the lakeside villages. The festival involved a slow parade in the street, with elaborately dressed groups of women and men doing "Square Dancing", and followed by a brass band as they slowly moved along. I knew there were some big hills after the ferry crossing, and as I was already struggling to breathe I stayed over in San Pedro village where the ferry dropped me off. The local population around the lake shore consists mainly of smallish-built indigenous people (see the size of the door in my room - and I´m by no means a giant, to say the least!). My last stop-over in Bolivia was a relaxing couple of days at the lakeside "resort" town of Copacabana, with it´s Moorish-style cathedral. After an effortless border crossing into Peru, I´ve cycled along the seemingly colder Western shores of Lake Titicaca up to the interesting touristy town of Puno. It´s supposed to be the dry (winter)season here, but on my approach to Puno I cycled through some freezing cold sleet, and it´s been raining on and off for the 2 days that I´ve been here. Puno is the favourite place for tourists to visit some of the interesting lake islands (such as the floating grass islands), and the small harbour area is crammed with tourist craft. As I´ve mentioned it is rather cold here, even the moto-taxi`s are covered. I also bought a local knitted cap which makes me look a bit silly, but it keeps my ears warm and has a double layer - handy if it starts to look a bit grimy I can just turn it inside-out! I suppose I can´t hang around here forever, so even if it rains tomorrow I´ll head towards Cuzco and the famous Inca-ruin region. Distances cycled since La Paz haven´t been phenomenal, but at this altitude one is held back by a limited oxygen supply. Those distances are:- Huarina 78 km; San Pedro 40 km; Copacabana 41 km; Juli (Peru) 63 km; and Puno 84 km. Total distance in South America so far is 12 703 km. Total distance cycled on this trip is 79 190 km.

THE ALTIPLANO

2011-06-23T11:44:00.029-05:00

It would be a big mistake to imagine that the Andes Altiplano (High Plains)was comparable to a table top onto which one could climb. In reality the plains are protected by big mountain passes over which one has to grind in the lean air. From an altitude of 2 500 metres at Cochabamba I climbed over 4 distinct high passes, descending again after each pass before climbing even higher over the next. The highest point on the road was at 4 500 metres before descending to the Altiplano at around 4 000 metres. There is no accommodation in these mountains, and I camped a couple of times at high altitude. On the second night after leaving Cochabamba I was camping on a ledge at 4 000 metres (I was hidden from the road, but some of the local tribal people spotted me from a path high above - no problem, as they waved and greeted me politely in Spanish). Those mountains are very desolate, and one of the few animals which can survive there are llama´s - the farmers herd the llama´s on the steep slopes with the use of ¨sheep-dogs¨. As I often do in the absence of any fixed object, I propped the bike up out of the dust and locked it to my tent for the night. At that altitude it became quite cold in the night, so I dressed appropriately and crawled down into the sleeping bag. During the night Old Saartjie blew over onto the tent, and with bike theft in mind I tried to jump into action with pepper spray and fish knife at the ready. However, with all that protection against the cold I got myself into such a tangle that I was fortunate not to cause myself any grevious bodily harm! (I wonder about that incident, as the bike was leaning away from the tent and there was only a light breeze). Later at the miserable dusty Altiplano junction town of Caracolle I stayed in an appropriately miserable room - the door could not even be closed properly from outside. During the night I had to trot to the equally miserable filthy downstairs toilet on regular occasions due to a stomach problem, and one of my fellow "inmates" stole my old, dirty, broken 2Oceans Marathon T-shirt from where it was hanging close to the door. Things get stolen for re-sale and not personal use, and the Nike sponsors logo on the sleeve must have been a deciding factor. However, upon closer examination the thief was unhappy with his catch, because I later recovered the stolen shirt from the hook behind the toilet door. Due to the thin air at altitude I often went into Oxygen Debt, and had to stop to hyperventilate until my head cleared and some strength returned to my legs. I reached Calamarca village early in the day on my way to La Paz, but I was so exhausted that I decided to see if they had any accommodation. Upon enquiry at the roadside I was informed that there was indeed a hotel up the hill at the plaza, opposite the historic cathedral (they even told me how much a room would cost). Well, when I got up there I found no such accommodation, and a ¨Man Of the Cloth¨(the Padre of the Cathedral complex) allowed me to camp out in one of the empty school-rooms. I was pleased about that as there was a fairly strong icy wind blowing on the plains - there was even a toilet in the back yard, with lots of guinea pigs charging about (I imagine the Padre knabs a fat one every week for his Sunday lunch). And then it was the final stretch to La Paz, at 3 600 metres the highest capital city around. At first I didn´t think much of the place, as I had to battle it out with taxi´s and busses through the dusty and dirty outlying El Alto. But when I did spot the city, it was an absolutely amazing sight. There was no prior warning, suddenly the earth fell away in front of me and there lay this spectacular city with the centre on the deep valley floor and buildings hugging the impossibly steep valley walls- with Mt Illimani in the background. Later, looking for cheap accommodation up and down the steep cobbled streets of the backpacker area, I was directed to a touring cyclists haven (Casa De Cyclistas), where at one point there were eight bicycles clogging the small place. It was also great to swap stories with the other cyclists, and just to have a normal conversation again for the first time since I left Leana in Rio De Janeiro 2 months ago. La Paz is a good place to acclimatise as it is situated at a slightly lower altitude than the surrounding area, and I´ve been here for a few days already. So, tomorrow I´ll move on again. Daily distances cycled since Cochabamba have been:- Parotan Camp 69 km; Pongo Camp 40 km; Caracolle 90 km; Patacamaya 91 km; Calamarca 46 km; and La Paz 65 km. Total in South America is 12 397 km, and total cycled since the start of this jouney is 78 884 km.

THE CORDILLERA ORIENTAL

2011-06-13T11:56:00.018-05:00

Feeling rather miserable after the theft of my photo´s, I made a hasty exit from Santa Cruz, heading West towards the Eastern slopes of the Andes (The Cordillera Oriental). I had a choice of 2 roads, and after consulting bus drivers at the terminal I took the Northern route (first I spoke to a group of taxi drivers at a pavement cafe, but at 9am they were too drunk to give decent directions). Although the road was busy, it was quite flat for the first few hundred kilometres. I stayed in some interesting places, and the simple rooms which I found there were dirt-cheap. Then the road tilted upwards towards the Altiplano (High Planes of Western Bolivia), and in less than 100 km I battled my way up from 300 m to 3 700 m. The road was supposedly paved, but it was in poor condition with gravel sections as well as cobblestones in places. At the end of climbing day 1 I was at around 2000 m and looking for a place to camp. I found a small roadside restaurant and upon enquiry I discovered that they had some rooms upstairs, as well as a hot shower (all for less than 3 Dollars). The following night I was up on the plains at Colomi, and from 3 700 m the road plummeted into a large dusty valley where I reached the city of Cochabamba more than 1000 m lower, 40 km later. At altitude the climate of the plains is rather desolate compared to the tropical atmosphere of the region down below. That lowland region is known for its variety of fruit (I bought tangerines and bananas a number of times at the roadside), as well as for production of coca (which they dry in front of their houses the same way they do cloves in Indonesia). The rural people live in stilted wooden houses (like in Laos), and they wash cars and clothes and themselves in the rivers (like in Africa). The women seem to have been cut from a square block of material and dress in pleated knee-length skirts and wear their hair in 2 long braids (the 2 in picture are actually quite skinny). The men are all scrawny and have a bulge of coca-leaf in their cheek. Up on the plains around Colomi the people have a smaller build, their houses are mostly made of mud bricks, and they have a somewhat Chinese look about them (in fact the landlady at the dump where I stayed in Colomi would not look at all out of place in parts of South-Western China). Cochabamba, where I am now, is the 3rd largest city in Bolivia, it is an interesting crazy town, but I have mixed feelings about the place. I arrived on Thursday afternoon and immediately went to the immigration office to extend my visa. I found there that they still follow a tedious paper trail, and I was instructed to fetch my visa on the Friday. On the Friday I discovered that some official had not yet signed my application, so I had to come back on Monday (this afternoon, and I hope it is ready). I also heard that about a month ago USA cyclists Eric and Amaya had booked into the same hotel where I´m staying, and while unpacking Eric had his fully laden bike stolen from the hotel courtyard (and I´m miserable over the loss of some photo´s!). Now I´m taking no chances, and I´ve not only locked my bike in my room but I´ve also chained it to the furniture. One of the things that I did get done here was to acquire a pair of reading glasses - now I look like somebody´s grandfather (the poor blighter), so perhaps it´s time for a shave again. If my visa is ready this afternoon then I´ll be climbing out of this valley again tomorrow, back up to the Altiplano where the air is thin and dry and cold. Daily distances cycled since my last post have been:- Buena Vista 109 km; Entre Rios 107 km; Chimore 73 km; Villa Tunari 37 km; Migalitu 64 km; Colomi 51 km; and Cochabamba 58 km. The total distance cycled in South America since November 2010 is 11 996 km. The total distance cycled on this journey so far is 78 483 km.

A PATH THROUGH THE JUNGLE

2011-06-02T18:22:00.002-05:00

Let me first explain why there are no pictures with this report. As I mentioned in the previous post, there was a problem with a virus on my camera memory card - which I eventually had sorted out today. Subsequently, while I was out of my (locked) room, the camera card together with 2 other storage cards disappeared from the room - all the thousands of pics I´d taken in South America gone! Anyway, let me start where I left off last time. At the Bolivian border I got a nasty surprise, I had to pay 50 US Dollars for a 30-day visa. At least Bolivia is a lot cheaper than Brasil, and I found a crumby room where I lay for a couple of days trying to recover from flu. When I eventually got on the road, I found it to be a pleasantly quiet newly-paved road (and mostly quite flat compared to the previous month´s roller-coaster). There was only one section about 200 km before the city of Santa Cruz where construction was still in progress. So I´ve been in Santa Cruz for a couple of days, resting and trying to recover from the flu which I´ve been unable to shake off. So far Bolivia seems to be rather out of place in South America - it reminds me a lot of certain African countries, or even some of the poorer East Asian places such as Laos. I´ll leave here tomorrow morning, heading for the big hills of the Andes once more. Needless to say, I´m very disappointed at the loss of all those photo´s. I did report the incident to the tourist police, but I doubt if that will do any good (the language gap was a problem, they didn´t even have a vehicle and would need to take a taxi to the hotel and investigate). Daily distances cycled since my last report have been:- Quijarro 11 km; El Carmen 108 km; Robore 143 km; Chochis 46 km; San Jose De Chiquitos 97 km; Tintas bush camp 130 km; Pailon 99 km; and Santa Cruz 69 km. The total distance cycled so far in South America is 11 497 km. The total so far on this trip is 77 984 km.

THE PANTANAL

2011-05-21T11:15:00.009-05:00

(Sorry, no pics due to a virus on my camera memory card - the joys of using public internet facilities!). Since leaving Campo Grande it has taken me 5 days to reach the Bolivian border at the town of Corumba. I don´t know where the geometric centre of South America is, but I guess that I´m not too far away from that point. I´d expected the terrain to be flat for a change, but 3 of these days turned out to be the usual hilly road. The other 2 days I spent cycling along the elevated road with the Pantanal wetlands stretching out on either side of me. This area is Brasil´s premier ecological tourist attraction, with lots of birds and other wildlife around. Traveling by bicycle I´ve surprised many animals crossing the road or just hanging around close by, but they refuse to keep still and by the time I have the camera out they´ve taken off in a hurry. I don´t want to appear morbid, but the only mammals I´ve seen which have kept still are a variety of road-kill (including the giant rodent, anteaters, cayman and large snakes). At least I´ve managed to snap some Macaws, and the rest of the wildlife is depicted on the murals from the hostel in Campo Grande. For some reason border towns have to be dusty, and Corumba is no exception in that regard. I don´t need dust right now as I left Campo Grande with a sore throat which soon turned into a flu and bronchitis (hopefully I can shake some of that off with the day´s rest at this hostel in Corumba). Tomorrow I head into another country, Bolivia (I´m a bit unsure of the road for the first few hundred kilometres, so it could take a while before my next report). Distances in the 5 days since Campo Grande have been:- Palmeiras 92 km; Taunay 95 km; Guaicurus 68 km; Porto Morrinho 117 km; and Curumba 75 km. Distance cycled in South America so far is 10 789 km. Total distance cycled on this journey so far is 77 276 km.

CUTTING ACROSS BRASIL

2011-05-14T11:59:00.028-05:00

If Brasil was a cake that one could cut across, then the baker must have messed up the icing - it is very hilly! Since leaving Leana behind in Rio De Janeiro, I´ve cycled 1700 k´s West for 19 days on the trot. Yesterday afternoon on Friday the 13th I dragged my depleted self into the city of Campo Grande, and I´m now taking a break in the Hostel Campo Grande. Only once along the way did I book into a room (on day 4 I went into the town of Barbacena in search of a supermarket, bike shop, and internet cafe - the cheap hotel where I stayed laid out the best breakfast ever!). Other than that I camped mostly at truck stops (called Posto´s here) - road transport is huge in Brasil, and the big truck stops are all over the show. Often I was not the only camper there, as all sorts of trucker hangers-on and traveling salesmen string up hammocks and even pitch tents at the popular places. One leather-goods salesman was obviously the cautious type, and carried his rack of belts and wallets everywhere with him - even into the toilets. One hears of people being referred to as `Trailer-Park Trash`, so I shouldn´t be surprised If anybody calls me `Truck-Stop Trash`. The first week since Rio it rained almost continuously, and twice I camped in front of restaurants under the verandah, and once in a covered car-wash bay (when I stuck my head out of the tent in the morning, there was a que of cars waiting for me to move). From Rio I climbed steeply up the forested mountains to the highlands of Petropolis, and for the next ten days or so I cycled up and down big hills covered by coffee plantations and grazing cattle. The lakes in the Rio Grande around the Furnas Depression are very scenic, but the continuous hills tend to detract from the view. Later I dropped down to a lower altitude where the hills were covered in endless sugar cane plantations. After a motorcycle escort across the busy and narrow 4 km causeway over the Rio Parana (with a big Hydro-electric plant in it), the hills were covered in plantation forests and cattle ranches (the bunch in picture came marching to the fence for a closer look at me - while other herds have run for their lives without me even stopping!) Along the way there are surprisingly many large towns/cities, which are only marked by small dots on the map. Campo Grande itself is larger than I´d expected and is the springboard to the Pantanal wetlands area (a big tourist attraction), which I´ll be moving through on my way West. I´ve already spotted some big colourful Macaws, and the road-kill seems to indicate that I´m not alone! Daily distances cycled since Rio have been:- Petropolis 81 km; Tres Rios 75 km; Ewbank Da Camara 80 km; Barbacena 61 km; Sao Jao Del Rei 80 km; Lavras 90 km; Formiga 101 km; Capitolio 96 km; Itau De Minas 84 km; Altinopolis 85 km; Jaboticabal 129 km; Borborema 95 km; Guaranta 62 km; Coroados 100 km; Guaracai 109 km; Tres Lagoas 93 km; Agua Clara 115 km; Ribas Do Rio Pardo 100 km; and Campo Grande 99 km. The total distance in South America so far is 10 342 km, and the total distance I´ve cycled on this trip is 76 829 km.

THE ROAD TO RIO

2011-04-22T06:21:00.023-05:00

Eventually Leana and I have made it to "The Marvelous City" - Rio De Janeiro. We've taken our sweet time, for a number of reasons (I apologise for the delay to the 3 people who still look forward to my updates). After my last update from Joinville we had to cycle inland for a while past the pleasant city of Curitiba, up in the hills. After that we left the "Trucking Highway" and returned to the coast as soon as possible (I suffered loads of punctures from truck-tyre debris, and had to replace a broken wheel rim along the way as well). Oh yes, during that time both of us celebrated our 5th birthdays on the bikes - the new rim was my birthday present. In the process we also by-passed Sao Paulo (the largest city in the Southern Hemisphere), which sits away from the coast up over the mountains. Instead we stuck to the coastline and cycled via the coastal cities and resorts of Praia Grande, Sao Vicente, and Guaruja - as well as the Port city of Santos. So let me get back to the reason for our slow progress. Firstly, this section of coastline is absolutely beautiful. There were so many wonderful places to stay over that we often called it a day soon after lunch-time, and we stayed over in places a few times (also at the picturesque historic town of Paraty). There is an endless number of islands off-shore, and stunning white beaches, backed by steep hills which are covered in the lush Atlantic rainforest. That brings me to the second reason for our slow progress - every beautiful beach is separated from the next one by a steep bluff or big hill, where we lost a lot of sweat in the humid conditions. However, at the top of the hills there was the reward of beautiful scenery. Also, we were lucky that the rainy season is coming to an end, and we hardly had any rain at all during this time. Talking about time, we tend to lose track and didn't realise that we pulled into one of the most popular holiday destinations in the world at the start of the Easter Weekend (a very big holiday in Brasil). All budget accommodation was fully booked, and we were fortunate to find a cancellation in a not-so-cheap place which we had to take for the whole weekend (thanks to Leana - and it is a wonderful flatlet in Copacabana). Rio is really a marvelous place, and we haven't even seen everything yet - although we cycled in via the big world-famous beaches (including Ipanema and Copacabana where we are staying). The beaches are packed, but I'm a little disappointed as I was expecting to see hordes of beautiful young topless "carnival queens". Instead most of the sunbathers are overweight and not at all self-conscious about it (and thankfully I haven't seen any topless women yet - something has to hold that lot together!). We have a few days to take in the sights of the city, and we'll probably take the cable car up to the top of Pao De Azucar (Sugar Loaf Mountain). When we leave here we'll probably head inland and West again, but don't count on that. Daily distances cycled since my last report have been:- State Border 111 km; Registro 110 km; Peruibe 109 km; Guaruja 122 km; Bertioga 37 km; Boicucanga 70 km; Sao Sabastiao 41 km; Maranduba 52 km; Ubatumirim 61 km; Paraty 49 km; Tarituba 37 km; Angra Dos Reis 66 km; Mangaratiba 65 km; Barra Do Tijuca 93 km; and Rio De Janeiro 55 km. Total distance cycled in South America so far is 8 607 km. Total distance cycled since the start of this journey is 75 094 km.

SOUTH-COASTING BRASIL

2011-03-28T16:05:00.000-05:00

Four years on the bike, and I find myself celebrating by repairing 2 punctured tubes (which by now I could probably do with my eyes closed and my hands tied behind my back!). Let me rather say something about Brasil, where Leana and I have been cycling Northwards along the coast for the past 2 weeks. For starters, Brasilians are a difficult bunch to describe, as there doesn't seem to be anything like a typical Brasilian. This lot comes in all shapes and sizes, they are all colours of the rainbow, they wear anything they want (sometimes hardly enough), and everyone seems to be happily doing their own thing. Some people live in fancy condo's and glittering mansions, while others live in shacks and on rubbish dumps. Streets are shared by shiny black 4X4's and horse-drawn carts (the other day I was able to help a stranded cart-man by giving him one of my spare tubes). Bicycles are popular here, for sport as well as transport to the supermarket or to work. People are generally friendly, with lots of hooting and greeting and sometimes shouting (fortunately we don't understand the language much, but some of it may be related to the popular Aguardente cane spirit - I've tried the stuff myself, only because it is dirt cheap!). When we entered the South from Uruguay the land was very flat, with a lot of lakes and rice and cattle ranching. Gradually the environment has become more tropical in nature, with forested hills and a warmer humid climate. The other night we suffered a rather heavy rain-storm which demonstrated to Leana that her tent needed some serious water-proofing treatment (fortunately I'd given my old tent the treatment in Australia already). We're struggling a bit with the Portuguese language, which we mostly confuse with the bit of Spanish which we'd picked up in the previous 3 countries (as soon as we open our mouths people here assume that we're Argentinian). In the South there was a lot of interesting colonial architecture, and we also battled head-winds most of the time (we made the most of the couple of days when the wind was in our favour). Currently we're in the historic city of Joinville, about half-way between the Uruguayan border and Rio De Janeiro. One really good thing about Brasil is that they eat a decent breakfast - bread, cheese, ham, fruit, and cake! (in comparison to the measly croissant and coffee in the previous few countries). We've camped all over the show, but thanks to Leana we have stayed in budget hotels a number of times, where breakfast has always been included. Daily distances cycled since my last report have been:- Curral Alto 90 km; Pelotas 157 km; Camaqua 133 km; Guaiba 103 km; Osorio 125 km; Capao Canoa 47 km; Torres 63 km; Ararangua 60 km; Tubarao 81 km; Imbituba 57 km; Tujucas 129 km; Barra Velha 85 km; and Joinville 57 km. The total distance I've cycled in South America so far is 7 394 km. The total distance cycled in the 4 years of this trip is 73 881 km.

A BRAAI IN URUGUAY

2011-03-11T08:44:00.000-05:00

Asado (a.k.a. barbeque, or "braai" in South Africa) is about as big in Uruguay as it is in Argentina. Leana and I have also found other similarities between the two countries, such as the love of football, the drinking of maté, staying up late at night and taking siesta in the day, the Spanish language, and there is even pampas grass along the road. From Buenos Aires we took a ferry across the wide expanse of the Rio De La Plata estuary to Colonia in Uruguay. We camped there in the local campsite that night, and were rather disappointed at the cost of the camping and also the price of things in the supermarket. The bit of Argentinian money we´d changed didn´t last long, so the following day we stopped at an ATM in the small town of Colonia Valdense. Well, what a co-incidence, as we bumped into Jo at the ATM and she invited us home to meet her South African daughter (Abegail) and son-in-law (Andrew). A couple of years ago Andrew sailed his yacht from Cape Town across the Atlantic, and the family cruised the S.American coastline for some time until they crept ashore for the arrival of offspring number 2. We got chatting over a few beers, so they insisted that we stay for supper and we ended up camping on their lawn that night. Andrew referred us to his Irish/English friend Lawrence (and Uruguayan partner Elisa) in Pireapolis, so a few days later we camped on their lawn and were invited to stay another night for a braai. The braai turned out to be a mean ex-pat affair, with Swedes, Americans, English, Canadians, and other South Africans all sending up the smoke. (The other South Africans were Pierre and Lindi from Durban, waiting for something to be done about their damaged yacht which had run onto the rocks). Uruguay is quite a small country, but we did manage to do a few other things as well. We stayed in the capital, Montevideo, for 2 days checking out the historic sights and so forth. Further East we passed through the international tourist mecca of Punta Del Este (reminiscent of Patong Beach in Phuket, Thailand). "Punta" is officially the end of the Rio De La Plata, and the start of the Atlantic Ocean (the first time my bike - Old Saartjie - had seen the Atlantic in almost 4 years). There are some nice beaches along this coast, and we camped at one or two of these. At the frontier town of Chuy (Chui in Brasilian) we crossed into Brasil. More correctly, we were stamped out of Uruguay 1 km South of the town where we spent the night "incognito", and we checked into Brasil the following morning about 1 km North of town. Officially the border runs along the middle of the dual main road in Chuy (the road is called Av.Brasil on the Uruguayan side, and R.Uruguay on the Brasilian side). Now we´ve moved a bit further into Brasil, just so that we´re less confused - at the border they seem to speak a mixture of Spanish and Portuguese, and the price of things in the shops is indicated in both Uruguayan Pesos and Brasilian Reals. In the process we´ve been welcomed into Brasil by the pouring rain - apparently there has been some serious flooding further to the North. We´ve decided to remain in our comfortable room in the town of Santa Vitoria Do Palmar for another day, as right now it is still pouring outside. Daily distances cycled since my last report have been:- Colonia De Sacramento 12 km (plus 3 hr ferry); Colonia Valdense 58 km; Playa Pascual 93 km; Montevideo 37 km; Pireapolis 110 km; La Barra (Punta Del Este) 52 km; Rocha 91 km; La Esmeralda 74 km; Chuy (Brasil border) 80 km; and Santa Vitoria Do Palmar 25 km. Total distance cycled in South America so far is 6 207 km. Total distance cycled so far on this trip in nearly four years is 72 694 km.

AT HOME IN BUENOS AIRES

2011-02-23T11:12:00.000-05:00

After more than a week in the city, Buenos Aires is starting to feel like home to Leana and me. But let me start at the beginning. Arriving in town after dark the previous night. we were keen to get out in the morning and experience this vibrant place. Buenos Aires is a huge city with a population of over 13 million, and the high density built-up area extends way beyond the microcentro (city centre). We walked down busy malls like Avenida Florida with craft markets and living statues, and marveled at the attractive colonial buildings in the historic city centre around Plaza De Mayo, also the famous theatre and Govt buildings. We dashed across the Av 9 De Julio (possibly the widest boulevard in the world, with its famous central obelisco), and stared at the "Pink Palace" where Evita had enchanted the crowds from the balcony (we subsequently visited her grave in the Ricoleta cemetery where people still leave flowers). In the afternoon we sat down at a pavement cafe, and that's where disaster struck - before we could place our order, Leana's bag disappeared from under the table between her feet (glasses, camera, cash, and bank cards: All gone!). So now, while we wait for the bank to send a new card, we're almost becoming citizens of Buenos Aires. (Fortunately Leana could transfer some money to my "poor" account to keep us alive in the mean time - and my sister also helped out). As I've mentioned however, one could be stuck in worse places than this. Besides all the history, there is a new "skyscraper" section towards the riverfront called Puerto Madera. We also visited the colourful La Boca district (and the Boca Juniors football stadium) where we met some famous people and entertained the crowd by dancing the tango. Besides getting around on the convenient subway system, we also took the regular suburban train out to Tigre on the Parana river delta at the outskirts of the city (and had a picnic on the riverbank). From here we're planning to take the ferry across the Rio De La Plata to Uruguay - but we're still waiting for Leana's new bank card to be delivered (and she's ordered new glasses from an optician around the corner). This whole episode is costing a lot of money - not only the hotel and replacement costs, the brazen thief actually managed to use her credit card a number of times. At least the place is colourful and interesting, with cheap Ugi's pizzas on the corner, and the ever present Parilla's (steak houses). I can also understand why people here need Siesta - they seem to stay up just about the whole night!

PEDALING THE PAMPAS

2011-02-20T10:00:00.000-05:00

The plains of central Argentina are generally referred to as the "Pampas", named after the plumed pampa grass (this grass is also infamous all around the world for swallowing golf balls). From Mendoza at the foot of the Andes Leana and I had to cross the Pampas in order to reach Buenos Aires on the East coast of Argentina. Around Mendoza there were still wine estates for a while, but from there on the roadside scenery was mostly cattle ranches and huge maize and soya plantations. Soon after leaving Mendoza the road deteriorated to a narrow strip without shoulder, which could not accommodate two trucks and a bicycle side-by-side. Unfortunately for us the road was rather busy with trucks all the way, which meant that we often had to fly off into the roadside grass - only returning to the black-top once the danger had passed. The rear-view mirror I'd fitted to my bike in Chile turned out to be a necessity, and Leana also invested in this "life-saver" along the way. However, for me there were other problems - certain ageing parts on my bike decided to retire from duty during our crossing of the Pampas. Within 3 days both my rear hub and the front hub caved in - luckily there were OK bike shops in nearby towns where I could buy the necessary spares, but it meant staying in a room for the following day so I could replace the hub. Regarding the road conditions, San Luis province was the exception, with a dual highway and a hard shoulder on one side (sometimes we cycled with the traffic, and sometimes against it). In that province they even had street lights all the way along the road, the paint colour of the poles changing after every 2-dozen or so (in one instance there was still some red paint left over, so they painted a tree). In Pategonian Argentina and in Chile the wind had been predominantly from the West, so we were hoping for that pattern to continue and blow us all the way to Buenos Aires. No such luck! The prevailing breeze was either from the SE or the NE, and most afternoons it was straight into us from the East. No complaints, as there were practically no hills and the Argentinians along the way are very pleasant people. Besides their friendliness there are a number of things which are remarkable about these people, i.e. they ritually suck on a herbal tea called "mate", they sleep for most of the afternoon (siesta - mostly at home where they have special darkening blinds on the windows, but also in parks, etc., see last pic.), and they love to eat barbequed beef (asado). Along the way we camped in public parks, on the porch of a vacant house, in picnic areas, and mostly at petrol stations (which, incidently have barbeque areas - and showers). One Sunday afternoon we pulled into a picnic area along a small river where half the population was grilling meat over fires - and before we could even pitch our tents various parties had arrived with plates of meat for us (and they all wanted their photo's taken with us). Even the vegetarian Leana consumed some meat ("so as not to offend the people, she said"). One non-Argentinian we met was fellow cyclist Nobu from Japan, who camped with us at a petrol station - heading in the opposite direction. We followed the National Ruta 7 almost all the way, but we diverted to Ruta 8 in order to visit the historical town of San Antonio (where Leana and her sisters had been on an Argentine holiday more than 7 years ago). From there we made the dash for the big city, and after a while the narrow road suddenly turned into a highway (we noticed some signs prohibiting cyclists, but they let us pass at the tollgate and we took our chances). So, in the late afternoon of Tuesday the 15th we sped into Buenos Aires on a 12-lane expressway, boosted by a rare tail-wind like two meteorites in our bright Aussie "safety shirts". Remarkably we made it quite a way into this large city before the highway patrol caught up with us, and loaded us into their van (oh yes, football is a major religion in Argentina, and while we were being removed from the highway our driver exhibited a tattoo on his chest - the emblem of his favourite football team). We were released into the regular rush-hour traffic, where we battled the thousands of busses and taxis for another 10 k's until after dark, when we found a nice hotel in the city centre (thanks to Leana). (Please see following report regarding our stay in Buenos Aires). Daily distances cycled since Mendoza have been:- Las Katitas 106 km; Alto Pencosa 99 km; San Luis 20 km (+30 km lift due to broken bike); Villa Mercedes 85 km; Washington 96 km; Laboulaye 128 km; Rufino 71 km; Vedia 119 km; Junin 58 km; Carmen De Areco 126 km; San Antonio DA 66 km; and Buenos Aires 118 km. Total distance cycled in South America since November last year is 5 575 km. Total distance cycled on this trip since leaving Cape Town on 27 March 2007 is 72 062 km.

CROSSING THE ANDES

2011-02-01T19:38:00.000-05:00

In order to get from Satiago De Chile to Argentina Leana and I had to cycle across the imposing Andes mountains (also referred to as the Cordillera). Crossing the Andes required some hard pedalling up from Chile - the gradual uphill started soon after we left Santiago, with some big hills closer to the border (one sequence of switchbacks had about 30 bends - each one numbered, but the numbers were increasing as we climbed so we had no idea where it would end!). From Santiago we took the direct highway to the town of Los Andes, and were driven through a 3km long tunnel by the highway authorities. At the top of the mountains there is another tunnel at an altitude of 3 185 m, where we were also taken through by van from the Chilean side (the border is in the middle of the tunnel). In the following 2 days we cycled through a number of shorter but narrow tunnels - the Argentinians obviously aren't as concerned about our safety as they were in Chile. We also passed a number of ski-resorts on our way up and down on both sides (strange to see the deserted hotels, unused ski-lifts, and exposed stony slopes where there is a thick bed of snow in winter). The descent on the Argentinian side of the "Cordillera" is spectacular desert-like scenery, and we also had a good view of Aconcagua (the highest peak in the America´s). The road on the Argentine side was mostly downhill almost all the way to the city of Mendoza where we are now. Mendoza is a pleasant city with wide leafy streets and attractive plaza's, and is also the centre of the Argentine wine region - which reminds me of an over-sized Stellenbosch in SA. We'll rest here for a day or two before heading East across the Pampas in the direction of Buenos Aires. Distances cycled since my previous report from Santiago were:- Los Andes 81 km; Portillo 51 km; Puente Del Inca 40 km; Uspallata 71 km; Potrerellos 58 km; and Mendoza 72 km. Total distance cycled on this journey is 70 970 km. Total in South America so far is 4 483 km.

EXTRA CHILE

2011-01-21T09:47:00.000-05:00

When I cycled South from Santiago 2 months ago, the last thing I expected was to be cycling the 1000 odd k´s North again on the Pan Americana, back to Santiago. However, the trip was quite pleasant as it was a nice change to have Leana cycling with me again, and we took it much easier (Leana was worried about her foot injuries, which fortunately didn´t give any trouble on the bike). On the way South I´d put in some long days, mostly camping along the road. Now we moved North along the same road, turning off to towns along the way in the afternoon where we usually booked into the local accommodation. This provided a better insight into how the people live, and most of these towns are quite pretty - usually designed around a picturesque central plaza with trees, band stands, and statues of Heroes. Speaking of heroes, every town in Chile has a street named after Bernardo O´Higgins (the Liberator), Pedro Montt, Manuel Bulnes, and Arturo Pratt (amongst others). In the South there is a lot of German influence, and many of the buildings tend to be constructed from timber with shingles on roofs and external walls. In Puerto Montt we stayed in such a 3-storey leaning timber hostal, and the day before we left we were shaken by an earthquake (fortunately there was no damage, as the wooden buildings are supposed to be fairly earthquake resistant). However, further North in Middle Chile, it was sad to see the extent of the damage caused by the huge earthquake in Feb 2010. In towns such as Chillan, Linares, and Talca we had a hard time finding cheap accommodation as those places tend to be older buldings which were destroyed (reminiscent of Padang in Sumatra where we were about a year ago). However, those earthquake-stricken places are in the famed Chilean winelands, and it is quite a scenic area to cycle through. I´ve taken a liking to the cheese in Chile, and in certain places such as Loncoche and around Temuco we got stuck into some tasty cheese bought at the stalls along the road and in the local markets. Now I´m back in Santiago for the second time in about 2 months (and more than 4000 km later). Leana hasn´t been here before, so on the first day here we wandered around the city taking in the sights. Unfortunately the air is much more hazy now than it was 2 months ago, and one cannot really see the towering mountain (the snow has melted now, anyway). I also got some necessary bike spares and I spent yesterday servicing Old Saartjie. Our intention was to get back on the road tomorrow, but Leana´s computer is buggered and she handed it in for repairs, only to be collected on Monday pm! So, now we´ll hopefully leave here on Tuesday (25th), and head North-East towards the Andes and Argentina. In the mean time we´ll probably still be cruising around the city on the cheap and efficient underground metro rail. Daily distances cycled since my last report were:- Puerto Varas 20 km; Frutillar 44 km; Osorno 69 km; Los Lagos 94 km; Loncoche 86 km; Temuco 88 km; Collipulli 102 km; Los Angeles 77 km; Chillan 113 km; Linares 109 km; Talca 56 km; Curico 73 km; Rancagua 112 km; and Santiago 92 km. Total distance cycled in South America is 4 110 km. Total distance cycled on this trip since leaving Cape Town on 27 March 2007 is 70 597 km.

WINDS OF WRATH ON ROAD TO HELL

2010-12-31T09:41:00.000-05:00

When I read this title I wonder if perhaps I’m not exaggerating the experience – but that just shows you how easily one forgets! Previously, cycling South along the Carretera Austral in Chilean Patagonia, I’d had some troubles – mostly relating to rain and cold conditions. Since my last report from Coyhaique however, I’d started to experience some unnervingly strong winds even before crossing the border into Argentina. Fortunately those winds were mostly in my favour as I was moving in an Easterly direction by that time (the wind in Patagonia is mostly from the West, but don’t rely on that as it can change in a minute!). I’d taken the ferry across the wind-whipped Lagos General Carrera to the town of Chile Chico, from where I crossed into Argentina and was blown through the semi-desert scrub Eastwards along the shores of the same lake (now called Lagos Beunos Aires) to the farming town of Perito Moreno. This was the point from where I was to tackle the INFAMOUS ROUTE 40 South. Not unexpectedly my good fortune soon ended, the paved road didn’t last long, and I was now moving Southwards with the wind almost directly side-on. Just keeping the bike on the loose stony surface became an exhausting task, and any form of shelter for setting up camp at night was rather scarce (I camped in ditches along the road, in the storage shed of a government road camp, and behind a rather inadequate thorn bush – providing me with a puncture for my troubles). I also had to carry plenty of water, as most of the rivers indicated on the map were either dry, or far and inaccessible from the road. The loose road surface meant that I had no base from which to resist the wind, and on one particularly exposed stretch I was not only being blown off the road while cycling or pushing the bike, I was also being blown over just standing and trying to hold the bike upright (in my ignorance I used to think that such powerful gusting winds should have a name and be mentioned on TV News – which usually includes a damage report!). After a number of spectacular crashes I was sitting in the dust next to my bike wondering what to do next, when a pickup truck appeared from beyond the horizon and thankfully gave me a lift to where they turned off – after that some hills provided a little protection and I could struggle onwards to the tiny village of Tres Lagos (luckily there was a protected camp site, as well as a shop – I was running out of food due to the lack of “pit-stops” along that isolated route). Enough of the woeful stories, because further South there were more paved roads and I managed to grind my way through Argentinian Patagonia back into the Southern part of Chile. (I stayed over a day in the touristy El Calafate, and on Xmas eve I was camping in the shelter of the petrol station at a hamlet called La Esperanza – and the locals kindly invited me to their Xmas party where I was stuffed full of meat and beer). Back in Chile at the hostel campsite in the town of Puerto Natales, the day after Xmas, I met up with Leana again. She had been stuck there for a couple of weeks and she could still barely walk from the ankle injuries she sustained while on a trek in the nearby Torres Del Paine Nat Park. Although my rough plan was to carry on South to Ushuaia, we went to enquire about the ship back North to Puerto Montt. The Navimag ship “Evangelistas” was leaving on the night of the 27th- I was also looking forward to getting back out of the miserable weather – and when Leana offered to pay for my passage I wasn’t going to refuse! It turned out to be a wonderful 3-day voyage through the maze of fjords and channels, with close views of glaciers and snowy mountain islands (not to mention the good food and rest I got on the ship!). So, more than 4 weeks and 2000 km after heading South into Patagonia, I’m happy to be back in Puerto Montt. Since we´ve arrived this morning it feels incredibly hot and humid – probably in relation to the cold which I´d become accustomed to in Patagonia (I´m looking forward to cycling in shorts/t-shirt/sandals). From here we’ll probably take a more leisurely and slightly different route North than what I did on my way South (hopefully Leana´s feet can hold up to the cycling). Daily distances cycled since my last report from Coyhaique have been:- Cerra Castillo 90 km; Chile Chico 36 km (+ ferry); Perito Moreno (Argentina) 79 km; Unnamed Camp 103 km; Bajo Caracoles 35 km; Las Horquetas 95 km; Lagos Cardiel 96 km; Tres Lagos 68 km (+ lift); Lagos Viedma 56 km; El Calafate 117 km; La Esperanza 167 km; Tami Aike 81 km; and Puerto Natales (Chile) 114 km. Total distance cycled so far in South America is 2 985 km, and total for the trip is 69 454 km.

WELCOME TO PATAGONIA

2010-12-11T13:20:00.000-05:00

The city of Puerto Montt is regarded as the gateway to Patagonia (on the Western Chilean side of the South American continent). The Carretera Austral (Route 7) runs South from there for more than a thousand k´s, mostly a gravel road which is linked in places by necessary ferry crossings. Most of the ferries only operate in the short summer season, and as the ferries on the Northern section of Route 7 were not yet running I carried on South to Chiloe Island via an extention of the Pan Americana (Route 5) on which I had been cycling since Santiago. From Quellon in the South of the island I was then able to take a ferry back to the mainland at Chaiten, from where I could cycle South on Route 7. Earlier I´d been informed that there was a daily ferry, but upon arrival in Quellon I discovered that the ferry made the crossing once a week, so I had 2 days to kill (luckily I could stay with local people Mauricio and Sylvia - see previous post). In the early morning the ferry docked at what´s left of Chaiten town in atroceous weather, and I wasn´t at all impressed by this "cold" welcome to mainland Pategonia. A couple of years ago Chaiten Volcano erupted, just about burying the whole town under ash - also making it difficult for the ferry to dock as the new "beach" is closely adjacent to the docking area. Fortunately all residents were evacuated in time, and people seem to be returning to dig their houses out of the ash. Before long I was on a gravel road, sometimes quite good surface but sometimes not so good. As I had expected there is not much flat land around here, so it´s up and down all the time with the occasional bigger mountain pass. After meeting only 1 other cyclist in Chile so far (Jean-Marc from France), I met 4 cyclists moving North on the day of the ferry crossing (Joachim and Sabine from Germany, and Jeff & Rosemary from Australia). The weather hasn´t been wonderful, and I´ve only cycled on one rainless day in the past 2 weeks. On that day I met Marc from Switzerland cycling in the same direction as me, and we camped together for 2 nights (on the 3rd morning he left before me, and has been missing ever since). After suffering the cold on a number of occasions I am now convinced that I´m not properly prepared for the weather, and today I bought a pair of leather boots, as well as waterproofing spray for the boots, my gloves, and rain gear (which have been rather ineffective in the constant freezing rain - and the snow which I´ve run into twice on high ground). Please don´t misunderstand me, I´m not complaining - due to the weather and the topography, this area is absolutely spectacular (I´ve nearly crashed a few times just staring in awe at the magnificent scenery). Now I´ve rested in Coyhaique for 2 days, a fairly big town and capital of this region. Perhaps I´ll stay another day, as every now and then I still suffer the after-effects of the illness I had in Borneo 6 months ago (I´m still losing hair, but a more awkward problem is the joint pains which recur every now and then). Besides that, there´s a New York cyclist staying in the same hospedaje as me - I don´t even know his name yet, so we still need some time to swap war stories. Daily distances cycled since my last report from Temuco have been:- Mafil 136 km; Osorno 126 km; Puerto Varas 94 km; Puerto Montt 26 km; Ancud 98 km; Chonchi 110 km; Quellon 75 km; To Ferry 6 km (plus 4 hr ferry to Chaiten); Villa Santa Lucia 88 km; La Junta 68 km; Puerto Puyuguapi 46 km; Villa Amengual 92 km; El Balseo 106 km; and Coyhaique 49 km. Distance cycled in South America since leaving Santiago is 1 848 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town at the start of this journey is 68 317 km.

THE LAND OF THE DOG

2010-12-11T13:11:00.000-05:00

In Chile, a dog´s life is not necessarily a bad life - there are hordes of dogs around, many of them seem to be packs of strays. Dogs apparently hold a special place in local society, and anybody who harms a dog could find himself in big trouble. I´ve learned to look around a bit, scanning the area for dogs before I set up camp, but before long they usually sniff me out. Initially there´s a bit of barking involved, but as soon as they realise that I´m about to prepare dinner the dogs pretend to be a lot more friendly. After my last report from Temuco I continued on my way South, and when I enquired around at the small town of Mafill regarding a camp site a local man (Juan Ernesto) invited me to camp at his humble home. Of course Juan Ernesto had a dog which he tied up on one side of the yard, leaving me hardly enough space to pitch my tent (and the dog disturbed the whole neighbourhood for most of the night, barking at my tent). I also had dinner with the family that evening, and my attempts to communicate with the help of a dictionary were rather futile as Juan Ernesto turned out to be illiterate. In Chile I also introduce myself as "Ernesto", otherwise the people don´t quite catch my name (as in Mocambique, where I had a sign on my bike advertising this blog - leading some of the Portuguese speaking locals to think that my name was Ernesto Nbike). Further South on Chiloe Island I had to wait for the ferry from Quellon back across to the mainland, and I stayed at the home of the welcoming Sylvia and Mauricio (unfortunately their dog didn´t share that attitude, and had to be tied up before I could leave the house). Sylvia has done cycle touring in the past, so they are keen to accommodate cyclists who have to spend some time in their town, Quellon (contact Mauricio on e-mail morrispet2108@hotmail.com if you don´t mind camping out on the lounge floor). The other night, after a long cold and wet day on the bike, I found refuge in an auto scrap yard, where I shared a breezy shed with the two resident "Junk Yard Dogs". They weren´t at all mean towards me, and probably considered adopting me as one of their own when I let them eat my leftover dinner from the pot. The following morning I awoke to a freezing wet day, with fresh snow low on the surrounding hills. After a few k´s on the road I stopped to eat some peanuts which I had with me, but before I could even help myself to a second handful of peanuts there were 6 dogs in close attention (where did they come from!?). I carried on cycling - dogs in tow - and after about 10 km most of the hounds had called it a day. However, 2 of the dogs managed to stay with me (lagging behind as I sped down the hills, but they obviously knew the road because they kept on going and caught me on the inevitable uphills). Later I sheltered from the rain in a tunnel and decided to reward the dogs by giving them some of the peanuts, but they didn´t want any! (they just wanted to run along with me, it seems). When I was crawling up the subsequent mountain pass I coudn´t feel my hands and feet anymore, and then it started to snow. Those 2 dogs trotted ahead of me through the drifting snow, looking around every now and then to make sure that I was still following. I got the feeling that they may have been angels guiding me through trouble, but then it struck me that they were both pitch black dogs (probably what I deserve, anyway!). Once over the top of the pass the sky cleared for a moment and I could see the town of Coyhaique about 10 k´s away at the foot of a large mountain. I felt rather awkward leaving those 2 dogs like that on the big downhill after they´d run with me for 27 km - but all I could think of was a nice warm room in one of the hospedaje´s in town (and the inevitable wood-burning stove which these places have for heating). Later, in my warm room, I was sitting in bed watching cable TV (just to hear a bit of English for a change). I glanced out of the window and was overcome by a strange feeling when I saw the 2 black dogs sniffing around the supermarket entrance across the road where I´d done my shopping about an hour earlier.

A TASTE OF CHILE

2010-11-20T14:30:00.000-05:00

I was rather pleased when my jetlagged internal clock managed to set itself, and I could head out from Santiago through Chile towards the Southern tip of the continent. Once beyond the city limits I was allowed to cycle on Route 5 (the Pan American highway)which runs almost the whole length of this narrow country. For 4 days I was fortunate with the weather (although there was a constant breeze from the front), and I enjoyed the scenery of vineyards and green fields agains the backdrop of the magnificent Andes. Then El Ninjo struck again, and now I´m back in the cold and wet which I hoped had remained behind in Australia. Since Santiago I´ve been camping at the roadside, so the rain was enough of an excuse to stay over in a hostel today (do some laundry, have a shower, do this internet thing, and rest my backside). The city of Temuco where I´m resting, is quite a bustling place, and I´ve found it interesting walking around the markets and watching the people ("watch" is about all I can do right now, as I´m still trying very hard to "swallow" the English/Spanish dictionary which I bought in Santiago). Even working on the internet takes longer than usual, as the conputers speak Spanish and I have to use the dictionary quite a lot to ensure that I don´t give wrong commands! So far I´ve found that things in Chile are not dirt cheap (similar to South Africa), but it is still a hell-of-a-lot more affordable than Australia. I´m a bit concerned about the Andes and Patagonia which still lie ahead of me, so today I invested in a decent rainjacket-thingy, better safe than sorry I suppose. Distances cycled since Santiago have been:- Rengo 122 km; Talca 154 km; Chillan 149 km; Los Angeles 122 km; Lautaro 124 km; and Temuco 30 km. Total on this journey since leaving Cape Town is 67 197 km.

THE THIRD SUNSET

2010-11-20T14:06:00.000-05:00

I thought I´d just jot down a few notes about how I got from Sydney to Santiago (obviously not by bicycle, although I did cycle 20 km from Sydney to airport, and 27 km from airport to Santiago). The rest of the way was by Areoleneas Argentina (via Auckland and Beunos Ayres). Firstly, on the cycle leg to Sydney airport I picked up the Lonely Planet guide to South America, as well as a bike box from one of the shops along the way (quite a mission, as the flattened and folded box made the bike look like some sort of flying machine anyway!). I slept at the airport that night under a sign drawing attention to "suspicious behaviour", and the next day I managed to get myself and all my stuff on the plane without too much ado. The refuelling stop in Auckland took longer than planned due to a problem with the aircraft, so I watched the sunset from the airport terminal building while waiting. Twelve hours later (after crossing the international date line) I landed in Beunos Ayres about 4 hours before taking off from Auckland! While waiting for my connecting flight I watched the sun setting for the second time that day (still Tuesday 9 November!). The flight to Santiago then raced the sun Westwards, but I was glad that the sun won the race, as I don´t think I could have handled a third sunset in one day. After taking the bike out of the box and getting everyting in order, I set off for Santiago centro about an hour before dawn (and avoided most of the morning traffic). After a few attempts I found a very nice hostel - good thing as I was so jetlagged that I stayed for 4 days instead of the intended two. I found Santiago to be a rather pleasant city, and I wandered around there collecting things I needed such as maps, groceries, and bike spares. Fortunately again, it was a Sunday when I cycled South out of the city - so the traffic was quite tolerable.

OZ: DONE AND DUSTED

2010-11-07T21:24:00.000-05:00

I guess this is it for me in Australia. After about 6000 km in 3 months I finally arrived in Sydney yesterday afternoon. As it was Sunday the traffic was mild, but I still had to contend with one or two nasty hills (as was the case almost the whole way from Melbourne). At least it wasn't raining, as I've certainly had my share of the unseasonal cold and wet weather on this stretch. However, this part of the coast is also very scenic, with lots of (hilly) State Forests, and beautiful lakes and ocean inlets. I've met a number of long-distance cyclists along the way, and all of them had some gripe about the hills (one or 2 of them looked like scarecrows or hedgehogs, with all the stuff they tie to their helmets in order to avoid being attacked by the cheeky Magpies). Now that I've seen the Harbour Bridge and Opera House, I'll fly from Sydney tomorrow into a whole new world - I guess I'll have to brush up on my Spanish (not that I have any Spanish to brush up on). I still have to find a bike box, and then cycle to the airport where I'll "set up camp" tonight. Distances cycled on the 12 days since leaving Melbourne were:- Warragul 122 km; Sale 112 km; Lake Tyers R/A 118 km; Murrungowar P/S 67 km; Genoa Forest 93 km; Eden 81 km; Quaama R/A 84 km; Waldrons Swamp R/A 99 km; Burrill Lake 71 km; Bomaderry 78 km; Coledale 97 km; Sydney 69 km. Total distance cycled in Australia is 5 942 km. Total cycled since leaving Cape Town is 66 449 km.

OCEAN ROAD

2010-10-26T03:50:00.000-05:00

Since my last report Leana and I have cycled Eastwards along the Southern tip of the Australian mainland towards Melbourne. We've had some less fortunate weather along the way, which made the going a bit slow (about 10 degrees C below normal for this time of year - cold rain and wind). However, there were some beautiful places, especially along the famed Great Ocean Road (12 Apostles rock formations, and other scenic spots). Unfortunately along the way I recieved the news that my Mom had passed away, and this afternoon Leana left (she flew back to SA). Now I'm heading for Sydney, and I have to be out of the country no later than 10 Nov (my sister has offered to pay for my escape flight). Distances cycled since my last report have been:- Coorong Nat Park 83 km; Robe 112 km; Millicent 81 km; Mount Gambier 53 km; Portland 106 km; Warrnambool 104 km; Port Campbell 71 km; Lavers Hill 52 km; Kennet River 72 km; Anglesea 56 km; Rosebud 80 km; and Melbourne 79 km. Total distance cycled in Australia since leaving Darwin on 13 August is 4 851 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town at the start of this journey is 65 358 km.

BEYOND THE DOG FENCE

2010-10-09T04:10:00.000-05:00

As I’ve previously mentioned, just South of the Coober Pedy opal mine dumps we crossed the Dog Fence. This fence, which stretches for thousands of k’s across Australia, is one of the measures discriminating against the dingo (they are also being shot and poisoned, and even have an unjust reputation as human “killers”). Since crossing the fence we’ve moved steadily South, reaching the coast and Adelaide along the way. Adelaide impressed me as a rather pleasant uncluttered city with lots of parks, and also recreational paths along the Torrents River. I even peeped in at the renowned “pretty” cricket oval – and I was disappointed to see that the stands have been modernised, in fact the building work is still in progress. As it was a long weekend at the time of our arrival, Leana and I stayed a few days at the caravan park on the river banks. When business resumed as usual Leana got a new rear hub for her bike (which I fitted), and she also bought a set of good tyres for Old Saartjie (my bike) – I’d been cycling on a tyre sewn up with fishing line for the previous 900 k’s. Over the past couple of days we’ve moved rather slowly through the picturesque Adelaide Hills region, where we met a South African family in the Mt Barker camp site who are in the process of immigrating (their furniture is still on the way over). After the hills we had to contend with a howling wind out on the plains along the Murray River, but we’ve dealt with that in the same way one would eat an elephant – a mouthful at a time. It seems that after the long trek across the centre of the country we’ve become a bit lazy, and today we’re resting at a very nice camp site in the small town of Meningie on the shore of Lake Albert. Tomorrow we intend to head SE from here along the Princess Highway towards Melbourne via the Coorong National Park, the Limestone Coast, and the Great Ocean Road. Although I made it overt the Dog Fence, I’ve been in the “Dog Box” lately, and it seems that Leana intends to leave me (again), perhaps in Melbourne. In one month my Australian visa expires, and this is one country where one can’t just cycle off across the border. Whichever way things turn out, I hope to reach Sydney by that time – we’ll see. Daily distances cycled since Port Augusta have been:- Port Germein 74 km; Snowtown 98 km; Dublin 88 km; Adelaide 62 km; Mount Barker 39 km; Tailem Bend 79 km; and Meningie 63 km. The total distance cycled in Australia so far is 3 902 km since Darwin. Total so far this year is 11 672 km, and the total distance which I’ve cycled since leaving Cape Town on 27 March 2007 is 64 409 km.

THE ROCK

2010-09-27T00:35:00.000-05:00

After waiting out the rain in Alice Springs, Leana and I were eventually back on the road – unfortunately to find that the usual head-wind was gusting again. About 200 k’s South of Alice we reached the turnoff to one of Australia’s great icons – Uluru (formerly called Ayers Rock). One can hardly be in the area without a visit to “The Rock”, so we cycled the 500 km diversion there and back to the Stuart Highway. On the way to Uluru we met Carson (his nickname) from Taiwan, cycling Darwin to Adelaide. On the return leg we met a Japanese guy who claims to be cycling around the world – he started cycling in his home country and then flew to Australia (perhaps the next leg of his trip will be Antarctica). Further South on the road we also met Mario, a middle aged guy from Adelaide who hopped on his bike one day and decided to tackle the Stuart Highway towards Darwin (his main concern is to reach Alice Springs in time to see the Aussie football finals on TV, and he’s also worried about meeting “funny” people along the way – I hope we didn’t fall into that category!). Once again we were bogged down in the rain, this time at Mt Ebenezer Roadhouse , and our tents looked like two bullfrogs in the red muddy lake which was the camp site. It is so unusual to have such rain in the area, that people were flocking to Uluru in an effort to get a picture of “The Rock” with water pouring off it. Since then we’ve worked our way steadily South, camping either at Roadhouses (R/H) or rest areas (R/A) along the way. We’ve had to cycle in freezing rain and wind – it’s quite a challenge to stay on track in a howling cross-wind when a Road Train rumbles past! However, people along the way have been friendly (especially the “Grey Nomads” in their caravans and campers – thanks to Daryll and Gloria for feeding us delicious cake and coffee on 2 occasions). We took a couple of days break at the first town we encountered South of Alice Springs, the “Opal Capital of the World” – Coober Pedy. For about 20 k’s on either side of town we cycled past hundreds of mine dumps resembling overgrown mole-hills on the desolate wind-swept plains. However, Coober Pedy is quite an interesting little town, exactly as one would imagine a frontier mining town to be (dusty corrugated iron buildings, and “miners” of many different nationalities who’ve come to seek their fortune in opals). People also live inside some of the old (and working) mine tunnels in town, and there’s even a few hotels inside the ground! On the road South we crossed the “Dog Fence” (which runs for thousands of kilometers to keep out the Dingo’s). We stayed over at Woomera town (base of missile testing area), and passed impessive salt lakes such as Lake Hart and Iron Stone Lagoon. Now we’ve reached the Southern shores of Australia at Port Augusta, the first sight of the ocean here at the Spencer Gulf since we Left Darwin 6 weeks ago. Daily distances cycled since Alice Springs have been:- Stuarts Well R/H 95 km; Erldunda R/H 111 km; Mt Conner R/A 137; Curtin Springs R/H 28 km; Yulara Resort 88 km; around Uluru Nat Park 37 km; Curtin Springs (return leg) 88 km; Mt Ebenezer R/H 107 km; Kulgera R/H 134 km; Maryatt R/A 61 km; Marla R/H 123 km; Cadney Homestead R/H 83 km; Pootnoura R/A 79 km; Coober Pedy 78 km; Ingomar R/A 94 km; BonBon R/A 79 km; Glendambo R/H 87 km; Woomera 125 km; Ranges View R/A 120 km; and Port Augusta 65 km. Total in Australia in 6 weeks since leaving Darwin on 13 August is 3 399 km. Total distance I’ve cycled on this journey since leaving Cape Town exactly 3 and a half years ago on 27 March 2007 is 63 906 km.

THE RED CENTRE

2010-09-02T02:53:00.000-05:00

Well, Leana and I have pretty much made it to the (red) heart of Australia – to the central town of Alice Springs. Locally referred to as “The Red Centre”, the Alice region is still a little off the geographical centre of Australia. Just North of town we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn for the first time since jumping that line on the way North through Botswana more than 3 years ago. After that we crossed the Equator twice, and have cycled back and forth over the Tropic of Cancer about 8 times. We found the tropical divide to be well placed, as we’d been battling into the wind the whole day and reached the line in the late pm (there was a water tank at the rest area, so we didn’t think twice about spending the night). I’d rather not say anything about the road and the scenery, except that it hasn’t changed much since my last report – however, it has gradually become more arid. The “feared” road trains are still not a problem, and the “Grey Nomads” (retired Aussies in their campers and caravans) are very friendly – even offering us water along the road. On the way into town we also posed for a self-photo at the unremarkable "highest point" on the Stuart Highway between Darwin and Adelaide. Now we’ve already spent a couple of nights at a camp site in Alice which is close to town – we’ve been cycling in to the supermarkets and bike shop in order to get what we need. What we also need is to start moving South tomorrow morning, before we grow roots. Daily distances cycled since my last report have been:- Barrow Creek 94 km; Ti-Tree 93 km; Aileron 63 km; Tropic of Capricorn 105 km; and Alice Springs 36 km. Total distance cycled in Australia so far is 1 580 km, and total since leaving Cape Town at the start of this journey is 62 087 km.

NO TURNING BACK NOW

2010-08-26T00:28:00.000-05:00

Since my previous report from Katherine, Leana and I cycled at a fair pace deeper into the Australian Outback – we even had a tail-wind at times. As we’ve moved Southwards the vegetation has become more sparse, and “towns” on the map are mostly just roadhouses (shop, petrol station, and basic camp site, etc.). However, so far the longest distances between water points have been only about 90 km, as there are regular rest areas at the roadside – where we’ve also camped. The stretches where nothing much happens are at times so vast that we even become excited when we see a road sign, but there are some interesting places in between. We camped at Bitter Springs near Mataranka where we were the first people in the steaming water the following morning – sending the wallabys hopping off into the bush. Devils Marbles is a spectacular formation of rocks, a rare feature thus far (there we met Italian Antonio, cycling Australia). Besides wallabys we’ve also seen a bit of the local wildlife, including a dingo in the road at dusk (he gave us a wide berth – maybe it had something to do with our smell!). So, after initially making good time, things have now ground to a bit of a halt. We had a rest day at Tennant Creek, doing laundry and stocking up at the local supermarket. Only 2 days later, after cycling a few k’s in the AM we camped at Wycliffe Well (UFO centre of Australia). This morning we awoke to unseasonal cold rainy conditions, and decided to stay another day. Just as well, because here we’ve met another SA cyclist, Clyde, who has joined us in the campsite where we’re sure to be swapping stories until we go our opposite ways tomorrow. Daily distances cycled since Katherine have been:- Mataranka 115 km; Larrimah 81 km; Daly Waters 104 km; Newcastle Waters 127 km; Renner Springs 118 km; Tennant Creek 166 km; Wauchope 119 km; and Wycliffe Well 18 km. Total distance cycled so far in Australia has been 1 189 km. Total since leaving Cape Town at the start of this journey is 61 696 km.

INTO THE OUTBACK

2010-08-16T07:04:00.000-05:00

On FRIDAY THE 13TH Leana and I headed off from Darwin down the infamous Stuart Highway. My mouth was dry and I wondered whether it had something to do with the Aussie beer from the previous night, but I discovered otherwise. Apparently it is winter, but in this Northern Territory of Australia locals refer to this period as “the dry season”. For some time previously we’d been cycling in humid tropical conditions, so instead of being soaked in sweat, we’re now caked in salt by the end of the day. So far the road has been good, the dreaded hills we’ve heard about were no more than just hills, and the feared Road Trains are OK as long as you keep your line at the side of the road. However, the constant breeze up the nostrils slows one down a bit, but at least it keeps the flies away. Having said all that, I’m aware that we haven’t even scratched the surface yet. The area we’ve been through thus far is quite touristy with the occasional water and camp sites at reasonable intervals – apparently the desolation is still spread out ahead of us. So far we’ve seen wallaby’s and flocks of black cockatoo along the way. There is also plenty of wallaby road-kill (no reference to the rugby team). Today we took a break at the town of Katherine, camping at the rather interesting “Coco’s”. Distances cycled since Darwin have been:- Adelaide River 124 km; Pine Creek 120 km; and Katherine 97 km. Total in Australia so far is 341 km, and total distance since Cape Town is 60 848 km.

LIFT-OFF TO AUSTRALIA

2010-08-11T22:46:00.000-05:00

Flying with our bikes and heavy loads was going to be a problem for Leana and myself. Our budget Jet Star flight specified 20 kg of check-in baggage for each of us, which just about accounted for the bikes alone. Our room in Kuta, Bali, resembled a disaster zone as we sorted through our things searching for stuff to dump – but that hardly made a difference. Then, to identify the heavy items which I would be allowed to take as carry-on baggage – yes, I did consider strapping the bike to my back! Once at the airport it was also confirmed that we would need to box the bikes, and a helpful “cyclist” passenger phoned his bike shop who delivered the boxes to the airport for us! At the “check-in” (or is it “weigh-in”) a terrible shock awaited us – even after much begging, wailing, and banging our heads against the walls the excess weight penalty was still 680 Aus $ (about R5000 SA). That was almost double what our non-refundable tickets had costed, and with our non-extendable Indonesian visas expiring the next day there wasn’t much choice but to pay up (thanks again, Leana!). After the 3am landing at Darwin airport I was concerned about perhaps being arrested due to all the apparently “illegal” things in my luggage. However, I was casually waved through customs while (the now poor) Leana had the full search treatment – sniffer dogs and all! By the time I’d re-assembled the bikes dawn was breaking and we had a pleasant 15km ride to the city, mostly along cycle paths. I think Darwin is an interesting little “frontier-type” city with a fascinating mix of locals, tourists (many Aussies), and migrant workers (many Aussies). From what I gather, Australians from the S-E regard Darwin as a “different country” – that’s how isolated this place is. Last night we tried to make sense of it all by watching the humanity from behind a beer at pavement café’s – this lot sure know how to let their hair down! So, now we also have books and maps etc. to help guide us on the Australian leg of our trip, heading South tomorrow from here across the vast “Outback” towards Adelaide. I don’t expect life on a bicycle to be easy on the isolated route, and some pessimists have warned against the demons and dragons. However, I think that the key to our survival in Australia is being able to afford to live – the place is expensive!

BALI AND LOMBOK

2010-08-11T22:42:00.000-05:00

Bali, a name I imagine most people who read this would be familiar with (surf-heaven & holiday mecca, and the unfortunate night-club bombing a few years back). On the other hand the neighboring Lombok island (the “poor brother”) is not as well known and has a bit of a different character. But 1st, let me backtrack to where my previous report ended, Surabaya city on Java island. Our trip through Eastern Java was not too unpleasant, albeit unremarkable. All the time I was still trying to recover from illness, so we stayed over on a couple of occasions – otherwise I just had to grit my teeth and bear the discomfort. Leana was still itching to peer over the rim of a volcano, so while we were in the town of Probolinggo she took a side-trip to Mt Bromo. At 2 am that morning I remained firmly tucked into bed while Leana’s vehicle picked her up in time to reach the summit by dawn – unfortunately as it turned out, just about every foreign tourist in Java was also there! Once we’d done the short ferry crossing to Bali island, the difference was immediately noticeable. Most obvious was the religion – Bali has a local brand of Hinduism, apparently corrupted by traditional and other cultural influences. The architecture on the island is heavily influenced by these beliefs, and every building (house, office, hotel, etc.) has elaborate shrines and altars where incense is burned and offerings are made. In contrast to what I’ve witnessed in Indonesia thus far, there was comparatively little evidence of Islam on the island. Lombok island to the East, however, has some Hindu’s but there is once again the regular singing from the mosques – I found that I’d actually missed it! The lumbering auto-ferry takes 4 hours between the 2 islands, but I think the trip to Lombok is worthwhile. The place is far less touristy than Bali and has some beautiful areas such as Senaru village up on the slopes of the 3726m Mt Rinjani (another volcano). There are also some beautiful beaches in the Sengigi area where we stayed the first night on Lombok. A few days later we returned to Bali and cycled around the Eastern and Northern coast of the island, as well as across the hilly interior with interesting rice terraces. Earlier we’d cycled down the West coast on our way South to the capital, Denpasar, and to the very touristy Kuta Beach area – also staying over at famous surfing spots like Medewi Beach and Uluwatu Point. Why did we return to Bali? Well, the answer is that we’ve been granted Australian visas, and the cheapest way to get there is to fly from Bali to Darwin (all fees courtesy of Leana, as I’m bankrupt again!). So, after our little island tour we were back at the Kuta “tourist ghetto”, fortunately close to the airport – waiting for take-off to Australia on 10 August. During that time I managed to take some care of the bikes, but I mostly just hung around getting up to no good. Daily distances cycled since Surabaya have been as follows:- Pasuruan 67 km; Probolinggo 41 km; Situbondo 102 km; Gillimanuk (Bali) 91 km (& 1hr ferry); Medewi Beach 59 km; Denpasar 74 km; Kuta Beach 13 km; Uluwatu 28 km; Kuta 29 km; Padang Bai 61 km; Sengigi (Lombok Island) 40 km (& 4hr ferry); Senaru 85 km; Labuhan Lombok 68 km; Mataram 75 km; Padang Bai (Bali) 21 km (& 4hr ferry); Amed 56 km; Lovina 85 km; Tabanan 83 km; Kuta (3rd time) 36 km; and Darwin (to & from airports) 21 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town on 27 March 2007 is 60 507 km.

SEQUEL TO SULAWESI

2010-07-11T06:35:00.000-05:00

Since my last report from Rantapao, Leana and I left theTana Toraja highlands and dropped down the steep mountain pass to the coastal town of Palopo. From there we gradually worked our way South towards the major city of the island, Makassar. The route was scenic and fairly easy to cycle, with lots of interesting things along the way. Local produce such as coco beans and rice were, as usual, being dried at the roadside – not to mention the cloves (kretek) with their distinctive aroma. We arrived in Makassar on a Monday, only to discover that the next ship to Surabaya was on the Friday. So we looked around the city a bit, taking “becak” (cycle riksha) rides to places of interest like the old schooner harbor, traditional fish markets, and the colonial Fort Rotterdam. During that time my illness came back to me with a vengeance, and for the second time in a couple of weeks I had to drag myself out of a sick-bed and onto a hectically overcrowded Indonesian ship. Needless to say, the voyage is one which I would like to forget as soon as possible. To crown it all, half-way into the trip the ship’s engines packed up, leaving us adrift for a number of hours while repairs were carried out. As a result we only arrived back on Java-earth late at night, and had to cycle the few k’s back to our previous hotel in the dark (luckily we knew the way this time). While in Makassar we also had to renew our visa’s – a costly affair as one has to find a “sponsor” in order to be granted the extension (I think our Makassar-hostel manager makes more money from “sponsorships” than from renting accommodation). Although I’m still unwell, it’s time to move on and tomorrow we should head in the direction of Bali. Due to my illness I’m losing my hair at an alarming rate, so perhaps I’ll soon be sporting an all-new “Kojak” look. Distances cycled since my last report were:- Palopo 65 km; Larompong 81 km; Sidenreng 123 km; Pare-Pare 35 km; Pangkajene 113 km; Makassar 56 km; and Surabaya (to & from ship) 12 km. Total distance cycled so far on this journey is 59 372 km, and total so far this year is 6 644 km.

CYCLING SULAWESI

2010-06-29T01:06:00.000-05:00

From Borneo Leana and I took the ferry East across the straits of Makassar to Sulawesi Island. Due to my illness and touristy side-shows we haven’t done much cycling since then. But first, let me continue where I left off last time. From Balikpapan in Borneo we continued North up the coast to the capital of East Kalimantan, Samarinda. Leana was keen on a boat trip to the interior, and in Samarinda we hired a guide and then took a bus up-river to KotaBangun where our water-trip began. The 3 days on a small long-tailed boat across a series of lakes and up remote jungle tributaries was rather interesting and enjoyable. Most of the villages and towns along our route are accessible by water only. We didn’t spot any Orang-Utang, but we did see quite a few of the indigenous long-nosed Proboscis Monkeys, as well as a variety of bird life (also Maribu Stork and large colourful Kingfisher). Overnight accommodation was in one of the village guesthouses, designed along the lines of one of the traditional long-houses of the region. Unfortunately I subsequently picked up a debilitating illness (perhaps Dengue Fever from the ferocious lake-land mozzies) – no sooner had we returned to Samarinda than I was confined to bed with fever and body pains. A couple of days later I dragged myself down to the ferry dock bound for Sulawesi – hoping for no more than just a place to lie down during the voyage. But it was not to be! As it turned out, our ferry was designed to carry less than 1000 passengers, but according to reports there were more than 4000 people aboard. As a result the floors were so packed with bodies that it was impossible to stand or walk indoors, so I eventually found a space on the open side-deck to roll out my sleeping mat (we sailed through a storm for most of the night, and we rode it out by wrapping ourselves in our ground sheets). To say the least, I was rather relieved to disembark at the port of Pare-Pare in Sulawesi 17 hours later. After a further 24 hours in a comfortable Pare-Pare hotel room it was time to move on towards the Tana Toraja region in the mountainous interior of the Island. Toraja is a popular tourist destination as the colourful locals have a distinctive “horned-roof” building style, there are various elaborate ceremonies (including funerals and harvest festivals), and the region is also very scenic. Now we’ve been in Rantapao – the largest town in Toraja – for 2 days already as I’m still trying to recover from my illness. We’ll probably move on tomorrow and make our way towards the city of Makassar, from where we should return to Java Island. Daily distances cycled since my last report from Balikpapan have been:- Loa Janan 126 km; Samarinda 13 km; Pare-Pare (to & from ferry) 3 km; Enrekang 86 km; Makale 80 km; and Rantapao 24 km. Distance cycled thus far in 2010 is about 6 100 km, and total distance cycled since Cape Town is 58 887 km.

BIKING BORNEO

2010-06-14T21:05:00.000-05:00

After the 22 hr ferry ride from Java, Leana and I were relieved to eventually wheel off into Kalimantan (Indonesian part of Borneo). The final part of the voyage had been up the Barito River to Banjarmasin, and even in the gathering dusk we could see that many people here spend their life on and around the water. As Leana was unwell, we spent a couple of days in Banjarmasin, an interesting city disected by a maze of rivers and canals. During that time we took a tour in a small open slow-boat to experience the legendary floating market at dawn, as well as a late-afternoon cruise along the canals amongst the stilted houses to see local life up close. Eventually we cycled away from there via a lesser road, following canals and rivers in a Northerly direction. There are still many places in Borneo which are accessible only via waterways, as roads do either not exist in those places, or are periodically impassable. Thus, we were somewhat alarmed when our small paved road suddenly degenerated into a dirt track. The tropical climate, as usual in these parts, brings with it the heat and humidity and daily showers. And so, true to form, on our first day out we were forced to shelter from a storm before proceeding in the persistent rain. The wet road was fine until we suddenly found ourselves “up to our necks” in mean clay. Not only was it impossible to cycle in the sticky slippery mess, but the bikes soon became so clogged up that the wheels wouldn’t turn! There was no suitable camping space around, so we pushed (and dragged and slid) gradually onward, arriving at the small town of Margasari well after dark. There we camped in the local police station – I’m surprised that they were prepared to accommodate us as we must have looked worse than any self-respecting Orang-Utang. We haven’t seen any of those animals here yet, although we have now cycled through jungle and over the mountains which separate the Southern- and Eastern provinces. Again, as in Sumatra, we had more than our share of never-ending steep hills! Currently we are in the East-coast "oil-city" of Balikpapan, on the shores of a large estuary (and/or bay?). Right up to the end it was no easy task reaching this place. After a long day on the road we arrived at Pananjang on the opposite side of the estuary. The ferry crossing took more than an hour, and we were dismayed to discover that Balikpapan city was still some distance away from the ferry dock. Twenty kilometers and a few hours later we had traversed the tricky hilly road in the dark, and we’d survived the subsequent crazy traffic to arrive in the city. However, we were not yet home and dry – it was Saturday night and there was no room at the inn! After hours of searching it was close to midnight before we could eventually slump down in the crumby room of a suspect establishment. However, every dark tropical cloud has its silver lining – there was a nice TV in the room with SA Supersport channels! (We've since moved to a better hotel, where we even get toast with chocolate on it for breakfast). I’ve been catching up on SA Rugby, Cricket, and of course the FIFA World Cup - I’m not the only one. Around here the locals are crowding around big screens and TV’s at pavement cafes to watch the football (and Indonesia did not even make it to the finals!). Everybody knows about South Africa now (Afrika Seletan) – even here in Borneo. As a South African I’d always imagined that the end of the earth was probably not too far away from Borneo, but then it all depends on one’s perspective. Earlier our local river guide, after a long silence, had confided in me that he thought South Africa was a very faraway place! Now, Leana is suffering from a knee problem, probably due to all the steep hills - as soon as she's able we should move North up this East coast of Borneo towards Samarinda. Daily distances cycled since my last report from Surabaya have been:- Banjarmasin (to & from ferry) 24 km; Margasari 81 km; Kandangan 54 km; Tanjung 97 km; Muarakomam 92 km; Kuaro 57 km; and Balikpapan 141 km. Distance cycled so far this year is 5 827 km, and total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town at the start of this journey is 58 555 km.

CULTURED IN JAVA

2010-06-02T23:43:00.000-05:00

Indonesia is currently an Islamic country, but this was clearly not always the case. The city of Yogyakarta in central Java is probably the premier tourist destination of the Island, mainly due to the ancient cultural relics in the area. The largest Buddhist temple in the world (8th century) stands in amazingly good condition at Borobudur, about 50 km from Yogyakarta. What adds to the attraction of this region is the number of impressive volcanoes all around, including the active smoking Merapi which towers close to the city. We also stopped over to take a look at the ancient Hindu temples at Prambanan (Leana went to the temples on her own as there is a fairly stiff entry fee for foreigners at these sights, and besides I could feel a bout of "Temple-Fatique" coming on - reminiscent of Egypt!). Otherwise Leana and I seem to be getting back into our routine. We've become re-acclimatised to the tropical conditions, and Leana's arm seems to be more-or-less OK. As I've mentioned before, the traffic on Java Island is very hectic, and I won't be at all sorry to leave that lot behind. The night before last, after a rather long day on the road, we arrived at the outskirts of the capital of East Java (Surabaya)at dusk. Finding our way to the "cheap-room" area in the city centre took all our patience and a lot of luck. We had a rest day in Surabaya yesterday, but last night our nerves were rattled again by a massive explosion close by (a gas storage warehouse just down the road blew up). Now we're literally waiting for our ship to come in - this afternoon we board a ferry, and hopefully we'll arrive at Banjarmasin (Kalimantan, Indonesian Borneo) some time tomorrow. Thanks to Leana for the ferry ticket. Distances cycled since my last report from Pangandaran have been:- Cilacap 93 km; Kebumen 92 km; Borobudur 87 km; Prambanan 71 km; Solo 51 km; Caruban 121 km; and Surabaya 159 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town on this journey has been 58 009 km.

BACK IN THE SADDLE

2010-05-21T04:20:00.000-05:00

It took 2 days from Cape Town back to Bandung for Leana and me to resume our interrupted journey, and it took another 2 days before we were out of Bandung. We’d only taken the bikes with us, so I was a bit concerned about the rest of our gear which we’d left behind (stacked at the end of a passage in the hotel to where we would return). There was, however, no need for concern. Even though we were a week overdue our things were still neatly in place - exactly as we’d left them. Before we left the city we also paid a visit to a good bike shop where we both needed some last-minute work done to our bikes - see photo (amazing how big brand components such as Shimano can cost a fraction of the SA price elsewhere?!). More than a month of the leisurely gluttonous life in Cape Town had taken its toll. From the moment I heaved my fattened and softened backside out into the tropical sunshine I knew there was trouble, and the heavy pm showers since then have further helped to bring us back to earth. Just to rub it in, our budget accommodation on the first night turned out to be a brothel (not unusual), so we had the privilege of being kept awake by the mosque on the one side, and by the sounds of the “working ladies” on the other. For the past couple of days we’ve been cycling on small roads in an Easterly direction along the scenic South coast of Java. The other night we were relaxing in our simple room in the tiny beach resort of Cipatujah, when the walls and floor started moving around (also not unusual in this area). According to reports there was a 5.4 earthquake not far out to sea – fortunately no major damage or injury. Regarding our stay in Cape Town:- Thanks to everyone who had a part in fattening me up! It was good to see friends and family again – apologies to those I didn’t get around to. Thanks to CMC for the free labour on my bike, and thanks to my sister Olga for funding the rest of “Old Saartjie’s” needs (parts). Thanks to Dave for lending me a motorbike, and for notifying Tabletalk about the “aliens in town” (see photo of article). Thanks to West Coast AC for inviting me to give a presentation on club night, and thanks to all those individuals who gave donations (I bought a much-needed camera out of that money – now christened the “WC-Eye”). And of course, thanks to Leana for many things including the rather expensive airline ticket. Distances cycled since Bandung have been:- Cicalengka 46 km; Tasikmalaya 83 km; Tasik city 16 km; Cipatujah 75 km; Batukaras 77 km; and Pangandaran 36 km. Total distance cycled is 57 335 km.

A BREAK AFTER A BREAK

2010-04-10T04:58:00.000-05:00

Leana broke her arm, so we've flown back to Cape Town for a break while she recovers (that's the basic info - for those who only look at the pictures). After leaving Jakarta we cycled South and spent a day in Bogor ("Rain Town") where we visited the amazing historical botanical gardens. Then we aimed East along the interior of Java Island, climbing a mountain pass along the slopes of two 3000m volcanic peaks. Those hillsides are a scenic tea-growing area, with continuous villages, food-stalls, and hotels (called villa's there) lining the mountain road. I was still suffering from Bronchitis, and after sheltering from a heavy afternoon shower I waited outside with the bikes while Leana went out back to inspect the rooms at one of the "villas". Then one of those crazy things happened (in a place where there is always a good chance of being knocked down in the traffic!). Returning from the rooms out back, Leana slipped on the wet concrete ramp and broke her arm - not even on the bike! For the next 2 days we struggled on (me on the bike, and Leana and her bike in mini-van taxi's), to the city of Bandung where she could consult an orthopedic surgeon. There was nothing much to be done, except to take a recovery break - and she bought me a plane ticket as well (for the benefit of those who are wondering where I suddenly got so much money!). Thirty-five hours after leaving our room in Bandung, we were home in Cape Town (17 hours in the air). Our bikes are just about our only luggage (for a decent overhaul at CMC). The 8th was my birthday, and I paid a surprise visit to my mother on that day (my mother is 86 with a weak heart, so it was almost a funeral as well as a birthday!). In the next 3 weeks I hope to visit my sister Olga in Sedgefield, as well as my friends around Cape Town. As usual I'm short of money, and as usual my bicycle is my means of transport (so if you live more than 150 km away, don't expect me to reach you in one day!). Fortunately many of the countries where I've recently traveled have been quite cheap, so I'm shocked by the prices of consumables here in SA (it seems that prices have more than doubled in the 3 years I've been gone!). The bit of cycling which I've done since Jakarta is as follows:- Bogor 57 km; Cipanas 41 km; Cianjur 25 km; and Bandung 63 km. Total distance cycled so far on this journey is 57 002 km.

A TALE OF 2 CITIES

2010-03-27T22:25:00.000-05:00

Some time around 1650 a Dutch official of the VOC in Batavia committed some sin, and as punishment he was ordered to establish a replenishment station at the Cape of Good Hope. The ships in picture are not quite the Drommedaris, Reigger, and De Goede Hoop with which Jan Van Riebeeck sailed to the present-day Cape Town (my home-town). However, the old Sunda Kelapa harbour in present-day Jakarta - once the booming centre of the spice trade - is still in operation, with rows of interesting old wooden trading ships lining the quays (of course, there is also another modern harbour). Otherwise there's not much left to see of the once prosperous Batavia, the place to which Van Riebeeck longed to return (of course there wasn't much amusement in Cape Town at that time). This historic old colonial part of Jakarta is pretty much going to the dogs, with crumbling old buildings, slummy areas, and the stinking polluted canal. Otherwise the city of Jakarta is a large, modern metropolis - the 9th largest in the world with about 17 million inhabitants. Leana and I have been here almost a week, relaxing, servicing the bicycles, repairing things, and stocking up on things which we've been unable to find elsewhere. Although the city is very spread out, there is a suburban railway station close to where we're staying, and the bus service as also quite ok. Jakarta is not quite as smooth and efficient as Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur, and certainly not as clinical as Singapore. Yesterday we celebrated our 3rd anniversary on the bicycles - 3 years on the road since leaving Tableview beach on 27 March 2007. We splashed out a bit, and celebrated by enjoying a couple of the local Bintang beers at a little place around the corner - incidently on their opening night. We'll probably move on East through Java Island tomorrow, I'm not sure by which route but there are lots of volcanoes which Leana wants to see (and I see hills again in my nightmares!). In case you didn't know, Indonesia is the world's 4th most populous country, and more than 50% of those people live on Java island. Thus far we've only cycled a short distance in Java, which has been built-up all the way with lots of traffic (especially motorbikes and mini-bus taxis). So, for the next few weeks I see myself struggling up hills, while at the same time trying to survive by dodging the traffic (I won't even mention the heat and humidity!). It may sound as though I'm complaining, but after 3 years I still wouldn't swap this lifestyle for any other! Daily distances cycled since my last report from Cilegon have been:- Tangerang 91 km; and Jakarta 31 km. Total distance cycled in the past 3 years from Cape town to Jakarta is 56 816 km.

HOW MANY HILLS ON AN ISLAND?

2010-03-20T04:48:00.000-05:00

In a moment of madness I found myself running my fingers across the map of Sumatra in Braille-like fashion (don't worry, I've recovered from the eye infection). I was trying to decypher the hills, but the map remained flat - not so in reality! Although there were a number of comfortable cycling stretches along the coastline, through many villages, rice paddies, and coconut groves, the overwhelming impression is one of many steep hills. It seems to me that the National Parks with their lush indigenous rain-forests exist simply because those slopes are too steep to accommodate the population or to allow for agriculture. Probably the toughest day which Leana and I have had so far was through such a park, and for the first time on this journey I pushed my bike on a paved road. Dragging the stubborn and heavily-laden "Saartjie" up that hill by her ears was no fun at all, and it prompted me to successfully make the extra effort to subsequently stay on the bike. From Benkunat village on the West coast we crossed the back-bone of the island again (another National Park!), where we found that the downhill section had been partially obliterated by a landslide. There were a number of exciting moments slipping through the clay in the rain, and by the time we were off the mountain our bikes must have looked like two moving ant-hills (fortunately there was a hosepipe at our overnight accommodation). Once or twice we camped in what we thought were discreet spots, but the villagers have an uncanny ability to sniff out tourists - making us the "attraction of the week" (particularly if your camp is practically on top of their water supply - which we took to be an abandoned well). We spent a couple of luxury nights in a "fancy" hotel in Bandarlampung where Leana extended her visa. Today we left Sumatra and crossed the Sunda Strait on a large ferry which also carries cars, busses and trucks. During the voyage we had views of the infamous Krakatao, still grumbling and steaming in the distance. Now we're in the town of Cilegon on Java Island (about 15 k's from the ferry port at Merak), and I'm sipping "mokka coffee" on my first day in Java. Daily distances cycled since Benkulu have been:- Seluma 61 km; Manna 83 km; Bintuhan 76 km; Pugung Tampak 85 km; Krui 37 km; Benkunat 87 km; Kotaagung 70 km; Pringsewu 60 km; Bandarlampung 38 km; Kalianda 63 km; and Cilegon 46 km. Total distance so far on this trip is 56 694 km.

DISASTER ZONE

2010-03-07T01:06:00.000-05:00

From the higland town of Bukittinggi it was a steep downhill run to Padang city, on the West coast of Sumatra. Our route took us past volcanic peaks and lush forest, and in the traffic somehow Leana and I managed to lose each other. Once in Padang I was amazed at the devastation caused by the September earthquake, and many buildings (especially in the quaint old riverside district) had been damaged or destroyed. As a result of the earthquake there were a limited number of budget hotels still operating, and Leana and I happened to meet up again at one of these. The road South from Padang was a scenic ride along the coast at first, but the trip soon turned into a never-ending steep roller-coaster struggle through the oil palm plantations. (When first cycling amongst the oil palms about a year ago in Thailand we thought it to be a nice ride, but since then I've certainly had my fill of that "roadside wallpaper". Incidently, palm oil is not only used in the manufacture of soap and cosmetics, but is also often an ingredient in foods such as biscuits, noodles, and even ice-cream). Trucks carting the clusters of palm kernels to processing plants also damage the road - of course most of the road damage is in the dips at the bottom of the hills, preventing cyclists from building up any sort of momentum with which to tackle the uphill. The disastrous 2004 tsunami was caused by an earthquake off the coast of Sumatra, and low-lying coastal towns have signs indicating evacuation routes in the event of a recurrence (photo). Another disaster during this time was the fact that I picked up a bug which caused a bad case of conjunctivitis in both my eyes. However, the "show" had to go on as we'd run out of cash and the couple of ATM's along the way were always off-line. I discovered that it is not so easy to cycle in traffic on bad roads with eyelids glued together and covered by sweat-streaked sunglasses (I would have lost Leana numerous times if she hadn't literally jumped into the road in front of me where she'd been waiting for the "invalid" to catch up). Fortunately the only mishap after 4 days of "blind cycling" was a flat tyre caused by one of the many potholes I'd been happily flying through. In Benkulu, we found a very nice affordable ground floor room where, after another 4 days, I've almost recovered from the eye ailment. At the interesting local market I've also managed to have my shoes repaired, camping chair sewn up, and tent zip replaced. I've also cleaned and serviced the bicycles (the "ass-washer" in the open-plan bathroom is very effective for spraying the bike down - although the hotel management would certainly view such activity as a disaster). We haven't spotted any other foreigners in Bengkulu, so our hotel probably doesn't know what to make of these 2 crazy cyclists who string washing lines outside the room door, and who literally "clean up" the breakfast buffet (included in the room price!). And then, 2 nights ago, the big thing happened - a 6.5 earthquake 160 km out to sea - and we didn't even know about it until the following morning (fortunately for the locals, no damage or injury). So, tomorrow we'll move on from Bengkulu, and perhaps unfortunately I'll be able to see the oil palms and the continuation of the steep hills and broken road. Daily distances cycled since Bukittinggi were:- Padang 99 km; Painan 95 km; Balai Selasa 77 km; Tapan 65 km; Pasar Bantal 125 km; Ipuh 53 km; Ketahun 82 km; and Bengkulu 91 km. Total distance cycled on this journey so far is 55 988 km.

CROSSING SUMATRA

2010-02-22T07:11:00.000-05:00

On the 15th of this month Leana and I took the ferry from Malaysia to Sumatra, Indonesia - a two and a half hour trip from Melaka to Dumai. From Dumai the narrow busy road was in a rather poor condition, with steep ups and downs at times (the frequent heavy rain showers didn't make things any easier either). However, after we'd passed the city of Pekanbaru conditions improved, and we crossed some impressive rivers and mountains in the process. Sumatra, the 6th largest island in the world, straddles the equator which we also crossed, but unfortunately we missed the sign indicating the spot. Now I'm back cycling in the Southern Hemisphere for the first time since crossing to the North in Kenya. We also crossed from the East of Sumatra to the West, and are now in a mountainous area in the town of Bukittinggi, close to the West coast of the island. There are a number of active volcano's in the region, and the area is also prone to earthquakes, having suffered two great shakes recently. Perhaps the greatest crossing is the cultural divide, and I've found the people of Sumatra to be quite different to any of the other SE Asian countries. Perhaps a recipe for Sumatra could be as follows:- Mix generous portions of Africa and India together with daily heavy rain; Add a pinch of colonial and other Asian influence, and bake in a hot humid oven. Season with plenty of cheerfulness and friendliness towards foreigners. Wherever we've gone so far in this country we've been welcomed with "Hello Mister", "Hello Friend", "Selam", and "Welcome to Indonesia", etc. Another peculiarity is the traditional architectural style in the area - strange curved multi-pitched roofs. From here we intend to continue to the city of Padang on the West coast, and then head South from there. Daily distances cycled in Sumatra have been:- Dumai 18 km (plus ferry crossing); Duri 85 km; Minas 110 km; Bangkinan 89 km; Pangkalan 85 km; and Bukittinggi 86 km. Total distance cycled so far on this journey is 55 301 km.

THE STRAITS OF MALACCA

2010-02-14T01:33:00.000-05:00

Since leaving Singapore Leana and I cycled North along the S-West coast of Malaysia to the former Portuguese/Dutch/British colonial territory of Malacca (now called Melaka). On our way we stayed over in Batu Pahat, where we were royally entertained by Keng and Penny who we'd met almost 2 years previously while they were backpacking in Iran (we even stayed in a luxury condo which belongs to Penny's family). In Melaka where Keng is at flying school, we were given a grand tour of the historic sights as well as being taken out for meals all the time. Then it was time to head on to Kuala Lumpur (commonly known as KL). We had to go to the Indonesian Embassy there for renewable visa's - and of course also to see the Petronas Twin Towers (until recently the tallest buildings in the world). In KL we also bumped into Joel, a cyclist from New York who we'd previously met in Bangkok where he'd started his trip. We were unsure about the route into KL, but once on the highway we found ourselves on motorcycle paths for much of the way to the city centre (of course we assumed the paths were also for bicycles). When we left the city, however, we took a different route and were twice requested by police to leave the highway - they were so polite that the second guy even apologised for having to tell us we weren't allowed. Nonetheless, we arrived back in Melaka in the midst of Chinese New Year celebrations. Not only are we staying in Chinatown, but a significant proportion of Malaysians are of Chinese origin. The streets are colourfully decorated, some areas are converted to night markets, and of course there are the obligatory fireworks. Today, 14 February, is New Year, so we're relaxing before taking the ferry across the Straits of Malacca to Sumatra Indonesia (probably tomorrow). Distances cycled since my last update from Singapore have been:- Pontian Kechil 103 km; Batu Pahat 81 km; Melaka 108 km; Port Dickson 95 km; Banting 109 km; Kuala Lumpur 67 km; Port Dickson 95 km; and Melaka 82 km. Total distance cycled on this journey is 54 828 km.

CYCLE TO SINGAPORE

2010-01-31T21:35:00.000-05:00

After my last report from Cukai I emerged from the internet cafe to find that the rear tyre on my bike had blown (this is probably becoming boring - the 3rd consecutive report of a blow-out). After eyeing a bike shop and feeling in my pocket, I realised I'd have to improvise and sewed up the tyre with fishing line. A few days later, after spending my last cent on a kilo of rice, I turned into the town of Mersing to see if I could find a sympathetic ATM - no go. Needing a quiet moment to consider my next move I took a break at a shady spot close to the ferry jetty, and watched the ferry from Tioman Island arriving. As the passengers disembarked I recognised one of them who had a bike with her - Leana! After a month apart she took pity on me, and we booked into a room where I was fattened up with loads of tasty Malay food - I also received a new tyre for my bike. However, we couldn't leave the following morning as my feet and lower legs had swollen up beyond recognition - I'd noticed the start of this condition a few days earlier (perhaps a parasite, or malnutrition?). After elevating my feet I was well enough to leave a day later. We cycled South to "lands end", and took a small ferry boat across the Straits of Johor to Singapore Island where we arrived before we'd left (time difference). At first I was impressed by Singapore, the airport is an international hub and to many the airline is synonymous with the island state (continuous stream of aircraft landing and taking off over the ferry as we approached). At the ferry dock close to Changi airport we received a free 30-day visa, and cycled along clinically neat and clean cycle paths through the E-coast park along the coast to the city. So far so good, but then my impression of the place started to change. There was free camping at wonderful places in the park, but upon enquiry we discovered that this facility was for locals only (foreigners had to take formal accommodation). Trying to buy anything made my hair stand on end, prices were at least twice that of "expensive" Malaysia. We'd heard of some budget accommodation close to the city centre, and in our efforts to get there we ended up in an underground expressway tunnel, where the cops loaded us up and dropped us "somewhere else" in the gathering dusk. In various other countries one would literally be able to buy a bed for the price of a bunk-bed in a crowded smelly dorm room here (eventually we settled for the cheapest overpriced room we could find). My camera has been "on the blink" for some time, so while in this city once famous for cheap electronic goods I looked around at the markets but was unimpressed (many of the items were cheaper in places like Thailand, China, and Vietnam). My impression of the city centre was that this was a strange, impersonal movie set - totally opposite to a vibrant lively place like Bangkok. Things were not all doom and gloom though. "Little India", where we stayed, showed signs of life and it was good to tuck into some South-Indian food again. Chinatown is another place close to the city centre which has a pulse. The leafy suburbs as well as the city's parks and beaches are scenic and neat, without the litter found around many other places in the region. However, we couldn't afford to stay for more than 2 days, and returned to Malaysia via the causeway and ultra-modern immigration check points on both sides (the biggest, busiest, and most efficient I've seen). Daily distances cycled since my last report are:- Cukai 20 km; Kampong Perful 74 km; Kampong Hulu Tering 78 km; Padang Endau 82 km; Mersing 44 km; Kota Tinggi 94 km; Kampong Rengit 86 km; and Singapore 55 km (plus 1 hr ferry). Total distance from Cape Town to Singapore is 54 099 km.

EAST OF THE MOUNTAINS

2010-01-21T02:58:00.000-05:00

I decided to head East from Pangkor Island, but the day didn't start well with heavy rain early AM, and broken tent poles which I had to replace. Not long after I eventually got on the road I stopped to use the toilet at a petrol station, and while inside I heard a gunshot (at first I thought it was a robbery, but then I remembered that I wasn't in SA). Gingerly emerging from the toilet I saw what I'd suspected - Old Saartjie resting on the rim, brand new front tyre blown to shreds. Fortunately things took a turn for the better after that. The following day I started the long climb up the backbone of the Malaysian peninsula, through lush indigenous forest towards Cameron Highlands. Late that PM, just when I thought there was no space on those slopes for a tent, I found a wonderful camping spot at a waterfall high above the road. From the high point I found an undulating road (not indicated on the map) via part of the Taman Negara (Nat. Park) and the shores of Lake Kenyir. During that time I camped in some wierd and wonderful places (oil palm plantations; abandoned road camp; with workers at a fairground under construction; and a perfect isolated spot on the lake). Since arriving at the East Coast I've discovered that there are many quiet beaches, so now I'm traveling at a snail's pace so I don't miss any good spots. I've also met a lot of friendly people around here, fishermen have given me fresh fish, and one morning the police brought me a t/a breakfast (I know some places where they would have told me to "move on" the pevious evening already). The other evening an old man from the nearby kampong (village) came to chat, and he gave me whatever small change he had on him (he didn't look particularly well-off, but the following am he returned and gave me more - hope he didn't rob his "piggy-bank"). Yesterday I turned down to see the beach at Kampong Kalong, close to the town of Cukai. There I met TM, who insisted that I camp in the shade on the beach opposite his "retirement cottage". The whole time I was there I received the "royal treatment". After a nice swim I could shower and do my long overdue laundry at TM's outside "bathroom". He gave me some fresh fish, and in the evening I got some rice which his wife cooked. I had a continuous supply of sweet perfumed tea, and last night a friend came around with a special type of sweet coconut which we consumed before bed-time. I could charge my camera batteries in TM's house and this morning I not only awoke to a pot of tea, but he'd been to town and brought back a whole plate full of tasty Malay food for breakfast. Here on the East Coast it is now supposed to be the rainy season, but fortunately I've had hardly any rain thus far. Incidently, last night when it started to drizzle TM's daughter came out with an umbrella for me. Daily distances cycled since Pangkor Island have been:- Teronoh 65 km; Cameron Highlands 65 km; Pos Mering 73 km; Gua Musang 64 km; Aning 60 km; Tasik Kenyir 81 km; Kuala Terrenganu 103 km; Dungun 91 km; Kemasik 50 km; and Kampong Kalong (Cukai) 27 km. Total distance cycled so far on this trip is 53 566 km. (Note - the pictures here of of sunrise, as opposed to sunset on the West coast).

ISLAND STYLE

2010-01-10T02:08:00.000-05:00

The day after my previous report from Langkawi Island, I took the rather expensive ferry back to the mainland while I still had some money in my pocket. Traveling solo again meant that I'd have to camp, as accommodation in Malaysia is quite costly. Once again I found that petrol stations make a handy camping site, especially if there is a covered carport for shelter from the frequent rain. For New Year celebrations I had my own little fireworks display, as on the pm of 31 Dec Old Saartjie's back tyre had a spectacular blow-out. After some makeshift repairs I was fortunate to find a bike shop just a few k's down the road, where I could pick up a set of relatively cheap tyres. Next stop was the famous Penang Island, and I reached it by one of the double-decker car ferries (the huge bridge is not for bicycles). I was a bit disappointed to find the island so urban, with traffic congestion and skyscrapers all over the show. The main tourist beach is lined with fancy hotels, and even the simple budget guesthouses aren't dirt-cheap. However, fortunately I found a derelict covered fishing platform above the rocks at the end of the beach, and it made such a nice sheltered camping place that I stayed four days. (My joy was almost short-lived as on the 2nd day there I fell through the floor - fortunately no broken bones and I'm on the mend). Arriving at a deserted beach the other day, I set up camp and went off for a cleansing dip in the warm tropical waters. I returned just in time to interrupt a troop of monkeys raiding my tent - they didn't cause much damage but they made off with some nice local cakes which I'd been saving for breakfast. I write this report from Pangkor Island, where I've been for a couple of days now. I'm becoming critically relaxed here, camping under shady trees practically on the beach. Pangkor, more so than the previous 2 islands, is the type of place one has in mind when picturing a "tropical island getaway". I haven't cycled much since my previous report, but here are the daily distances anyway:- Alor Setar 71 km; Butterworth 88 km; Penang Island 40 km; Georgetown 23 km; Bagan Berai 75 km; Pasir Panjang Beach 83 km; and Pangkor Island 50 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town is 52 887 km.

RUNNING FOR THE BORDER

2009-12-29T00:39:00.000-05:00

Nothing was going to stop us! Wind, punctures, stomach problems, road works, hills, bad weather, heat and humidity - all had to be coped with in our quest to cross the border into Malaysia not later than 26 December. (I exagerate a bit, because the wind was often in our favour and there were only a few moderate hills - although my tyres have worn to the point where I suffer a glass puncture almost every day). We were allowed "NO FEAR" in our efforts, as the road sign in the picture indicates ("ban Bang Boet"). However, in our Southern rush we did manage to stay over at some of the nice spots where we'd previously been (what a good thing we'd already cycled this way earlier in the year when we had the time). Well, we made it into Malaysia in the afternoon of the 26th (due date), and managed to cycle to the coastal town of Kuala Perlis by evening. The following morning we took a ferry boat to the resort island of Langkawi, about 30 km off the mainland coast. I need some time to unwind, and have been relaxing on the island for a day or 2 now. Leana obviously has more energy, as she quietly packed up and left this morning (or perhaps it's just that I'm not the best person to get along with!). There are some obvious differences between Thailand and Malaysia, the most notable being that Malaysia is predominantly an Islamic country. In Thailand women are often "skimpily" dressed, whereas in Malaysia they tend to be covered up, often with head scarves and all. In Thailand there are many Buddhist Wat's around, but here every town has it's mosque with the Immam calling the faithful to prayer. For me Malaysia is also much more expensive than the previous SE Asian countries where I've been, so I'll have to pinch my pennies. Otherwise there is no immediate rush, as I have a free stay of 3 months in this country. Daily distances cycled since Bangkok have been:- Puktian Beach 151 km; Prachuap Khiri Khan 146 km; Bang Saphan 101 km; Chumphon 118 km; Chayo 142 km; Chawang 146 km; Phattalung 125 km; Hat Yai 107 km; Kuala Perlis (Malaysia) 109 km; and Langkawi Island (after ferry boat) 26 km. Total distance cycled since Cape Town is 52 457 km.

SCHOOTING THROUGH SIAM

2009-12-17T07:36:00.000-05:00

After sharing a barge with a number of large trucks across the Mekong from Laos, Leana and I were not surprised to only receive the miserly 15-day Thai visa usually issued at land borders. We weren't sure about a visa extension in Bangkok, so we made haste in a Southerly direction. Fortunately the route allowed for some speedy cycling, and even on the few occasions where we had to cross hills the good road was a pleasure. We mostly camped on the grounds of Buddhist temples and at petrol stations (convenient toilets, water, and usually a 7-Eleven shop). Just North of Bangkok we arrived early at the former Siamese capital of Ayuttaya, where we fortunately found cheap rooms. The place was pretty much destroyed in a war a few hundred years ago, but walking around the old river-bound city one can still observe many interesting remains of the former glorious palaces and temples. Then it was on to the present Thai capital, Bangkok, working our way through many kilometers of heavy traffic before reaching the crazy tourist-haven suburb of Banglamphu. Eight months and 12641 km later, we booked into another cheap guest house not far from where we'd stayed on our first visit to the city. Hoping for a visa extension it was a bit of a mission finding the Bangkok Immigration Bureau. Traveling by river ferry, sky-train, and taxi, we were dismayed to discover that the visa office had recently moved to the far Northern suburbs of the city. Another train and bus ride later we reached the place, and after going through all the bureaucratic "red tape" only Leana got an extension for a further 7 days. (The short extension costs a lot of money, and none of the many ATM's there were prepared to give me any. The next morning I managed to squeeze out my last few cents, and I had to go all the way back to that miserable office for the essential stamp in my passport). Today we were still in Bangkok as Leana had some unfinished business to take care of, so I spent most of the day working on the bikes. Daily distances cycled since my last update were:- Thoeng 88 km; Phayao 103 km; Rong Kwang 130 km; Uttaradit 102 km; Phitsanulok 107 km; Nakhon Sawan 149 km; Chaiyo 126 km; Ayuttaya 50 km; and Bangkok 83 km. Total distance cycled on this trip is 51286 km.

SAARTJIE PUTS HER FEET UP

2009-12-03T23:06:00.000-05:00

Don't panic, as my bike (Old Saartjie) hasn't gone into permanent retirement. After reaching our Northern-most point in China (Chengdu city), Leana and I had to head back South, visa expiry being just one of the reasons for the hasty retreat. So, first of all we had an interesting 19 hour train trip from Chengdu back down to Kunming. I arrived back at Cloudlands Hostel in Kunming to find quite a gathering of long-term cyclists (about 10 of us in total). We'd all been travelling individually or in pairs, and had followed different routes, but all of us moving South to escape the harsh Chinese winter (Germans Robert and Martin in picture). My efforts to get on an overnight bus from Kunming down to Jinghong were in vain, as there was no space for the bike and my ticket was refunded. However, the next day both Leana and myself were more fortunate and made the 9 hour bus ride down to Jinghong which is less than 200 km from the Laos border. Although the "moving parts" on Old Saartjie were spared due to the train- and bus travel, there is - as usual - some sort of damage, but fortunately not too serious. After the short rest my poor old bike had to hit the road running - on the 2nd day after resting she cracked the 50 000 km barrier on this trip. From Jinghong Leana took another bus further on to Laos, while I preferred to cycle (we'd both been suffering from a bout of flu, but I'd recovered sufficiently to be able to cycle). I'd rather not say anything about Swine Flu, as you never know who may read this report and I don't fancy any time in quarantine. I was sorry to leave China, but Laos is a good relaxing place to go from there. However, there hasn't been much time to relax, as in only a few days I've cut through the "short NW" corridor of Laos. I've also finally caught up with Leana in the town of Houei Xai, on the Mekong river. I arrived here in the gathering darkness after racing the sun before it disappeared into the river. On the opposite bank of the Mekong lies Thailand, where we plan to take the ferry tomorrow. Distances cycled since Chengdu have been:- To and from railway stations Chengdu & Kunming 15 km; To and from bus terminals Kunming & Jinghong 23 km; Menglun 76 km; Mengla 77 km; Luang Namtha (Laos) 110 km; Vieng Phouka 65 km; and Houei Xai 124 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town at the start of this journey is 50 348 km.

CHILLING TO CHENGDU

2009-12-01T05:59:00.000-05:00

The rain in Yibin (where I posted my previous report) was just the start of an unusually cold spell for S-China so early in winter. According to the weather reports there was snow all around us, but Leana and I were fortunate enough to be spared the snow. We did, however, have to contend with some icy rain, and even when it wasn't raining we had to cycle with a few layers of clothing on. For a change there were no serious hills on the route, and we stopped over at a couple of interesting places. The city of Zigong is historically known for it's salt wells, and more recently for it's dinosaur fossils and renowned museum (obviously the dinosaurs were waiting patiently to be discovered since long before the salt mining). Leshan, another Sichuan province city on the Min river, is a favourite tourist destination mainly due to it's ancient "Grand Buddha". In the freezing drizzle we took a sight-seeing ferry down the river to see this 71 m high sitting Buddha which has been carved from the river-side cliffs. In another city at the end of one particularly long freezing day, I walked out to get some necessities, and decided to buy some fried potatoes from an old lady on the corner. I was still wearing my rain jacket and cycling tights, and hadn't yet washed the "road muck" off myself - so I probably looked like something which the cat may have left on the doorstep. However, the old lady refused to serve me, and instead she threatened to clobber me with her food ladle (the beard probably added to the consternation, and I've since had it trimmed again). As we approached Chengdu the area along the road became increasingly built-up (with endless high-rise buildings almost all the way from Leshan - more than 150 km away). Chengdu is certainly the largest and most crowded city which I've visited in China, and we spent an exciting hour or more in the rush-hour darkness being directed to all corners of the earth in search of Sim's Hostel - which we eventually found. Distances cycled since Yibin were:- Zigong 107 km; Rongxian 48 km; Leshan 92 km; Meishan 89 km; and Chengdu 98 km.

THE RIVER ROAD

2009-11-11T05:48:00.000-05:00

After leaving Xichang city, Leana and I cycled down-river to our next destination of Yibin at the confluence of the Min and Jinsha Rivers, forming the Yangzi River (this may be a bit confusing, as the "Jinsha" is also referred to as the "Yangzi" further upstream). To put it mildly, every day on this stretch has been full of surprises. What also adds to the surprise is that my "maps" are remarkable in their lack of detail (no distances, major towns not listed or in the wrong place, and many place names only written in Chinese script - which, again, does help when asking for directions). Firstly, to get "down-river" we spent the entire first day cycling up a mean mountain, and camped in the freezing cold at over 3100m where our water bottles froze and ice formed on the tents. Over the next 2 days we descended in an Easterly direction for about 150 km before climbing over more high mountains to Leibo lake in the historic Mahu district. Often we cycled on roads of which the surface has been totally destroyed by landslides and rock-falls (at times stones were falling all around us, but fortunately none found their target). However, the scenery was spectacular and the isolated ethnic villagers were wonderful to meet (bustling market-towns with colourfully-dressed villagers and their animals). At times it felt as if I could be in a place like Peru (incidently, I've never been to Peru), as the people were wearing tassled poncho's, women had long plaited hair, scruffy ponies are a popular beast of burden, and homesteads were often almost out of sight way up the mountainside at the end of unbelievably steep footpaths (therefore people also carry heavy loads). As we descended from the highlands into the Sichuan Basin, we found ourselves cycling in a misty haze (a regional winter problem formed by dust and pollution which settles in the deep river valleys). This part of China is also being feverishly developed on a huge scale - incredible highways and cities arising from what were recently still villages. To reach Yibin from where we were in Sichuan province, we had to cross to the South of the Jinsha as far as the city of Shuifu in Yunnan province. The only direct road between Shuifu and Yibin is a new expressway (bicycles not permitted), but we took our chances. About half-way to Yibin the police stopped us at a toll gate, but there was no exit from the highway so they called a pick-up truck from Yibin to load us up and take us about 20 km to the city. (The police are very friendly here, they were even taking photo's of us). Daily distances cycled since Xichang were:- Mtn camp 47 km; Junction town 85 km; Road camp 93 km; Leibo 7 km; Mahu 50 km; Bridge town 58 km; Shuifu 90 km; and Yibin 22 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town at the start of this journey is 49 424 km.

MOTHER LAKE

2009-11-11T04:56:00.000-05:00

After leaving Lijiang for Lugu Lake the road seemed fairly OK for the first while. Then we started dropping down a river gorge, where we met German cyclists Matthias and Katarina pedalling up the hill. We could see a big zig-zag drop ahead of us, and they were the bearers of bad news regarding the troubles awaiting us. By that evening we weren't even half-way up a bad "cobble-stone" 40km hill, and we camped at a rare level spot with water (scaring the poor farmer's goats and pigs beyond recovery). Two nights later we were on another rough-road mountain pass, and camped at 3000m behind a peasant house next to a shed occupied by pigs, chickens, and a dog with puppies (every screech of the tent zipper at night was met by a chorus of grunting, squawking, barking, and puppy wails). Eventually we reached the beatiful Lugu Lake, and spent three nights at different villages on the lake shore. The community around the lake is apparently the only remaining Matriarchal society in the world (women are officially the boss - family lineage is transferred down from the side of the mother). Surprisingly (perhaps because the season was at it's end) there were very few tourists who were almost all local Chinese tourists. The lake is at a level of 2700m, and from there we went down along a spectacular gorge to the county capital of Yam Yuang. The down didn't last very long, however, as within the next two days we climbed everlasting passes, again over 3000m, before reaching the S-Central Sichuan city of Xichang (home of the Chinese satelite launching business). Some of the isolated mountain homesteads supply piped water to trucks and busses for brake cooling down the steep passes (we also camped at some of these - level spot for tents, and water for cooking and washing). Often the local bus passengers suffer from motion-sickness, and they double over at the roadside to violently "bark at the ants". However, once the ever-present scruffy black pigs are released from their over-night accommodation, they waste no time to clean up the mess. One morning I took a walk up the hill and found what I thought was a suitable ditch for my morning ablutions. As I later cycled past that spot I was pleased to note that I hadn't left a permanent blot on the landscape (the busy little pot-bellied janitors were doing their job - one of them still had toilet paper protruding from his jaw). Enough of that for now, until we take on the river road to the East of Sichuan Province. Distances cycled since Lijiang were:- Mtn camp 62 km; Ninglang 74 km; Mtn camp 59 km; Lousui (Lugu Lake) 21 km; Lige (Lugu Lake) 10 km; Wuzhilou (Lugu Lake) 27 km; Yam Yuang 124 km; Yalong River 77 km; and Xichang 79 km. Total distance cycled since the start of this trip is 48 972 km.

CLIMATE CHANGE

2009-10-24T01:07:00.000-05:00

After more than a year of trying to adapt to hot and humid climates, it was a pleasure being able to breathe again at the more comfortable altitudes of SW China. However, the continued move to the NW has brought with it some high altitudes and cold weather (especially with the approach of winter). The route from Dali to Lijiang was fairly uneventful (of course there were some hills!). Like Dali, Lijiang also has an ancient city, dominated by the wooden tile-roofed buildings in the style of the local Naxi people. We are living in the Old City with its cobbled alleys and gushing streams - and of course the local tourists are all over the place again! For a couple of days Leana and I were away from Lijiang, travelling North by bus to the high altitude town of Zhongdian (a.k.a. Shangri-La). That town also has an old part, and is also rather touristy (at that altitude even the cheap youth hostel where we stayed had electric blankets on the beds). I'd taken my bike with on the bus, and spent 2 days cycling back to Lijiang while Leana spent that time hiking in the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge. Zhongdian and the high-altitude rolling plains (3400m) made for rather cool and O2-shy cycling, but the area has a pleasantly strong Tibetan flavour. My cycling route back to Lijiang took me down past the mouth of the Yangzi River Gorge (Tiger Leaping Gorge), as well as the foothills of Jade Dragon Mountain (Mt Satseto 5500m). Tomorrow we plan to cycle NE from here, towards the mystical Lugu Lake on the border with Sichuan Province. Daily distances I've cycled since Dali have been: Songgui 99 km; Lijiang 74 km; Zhongdian (by bus); Qiaotou 106 km; and return to Lijiang 83 km. Total distance cycled on this journey so far is 48 439 km.

NOT THE GREAT WALL

2009-10-12T06:57:00.000-05:00

No, the wall in the picture is not THE Great Wall of China. Instead, it is the wall around the ancient town of Dali (wedged between mountains and lake) capital of this region in times past. More recently Dali has become a favourite travelers hang-out, but it seems to be losing popularity due to its increasing touristy nature (around the streets I've seen conspicuously few western travelers, but bus loads of local tourists instead). Another "wall" which I've encountered is the lanuage barrier, and with so many different ethnic groups in this region the accents only complicate matters. For instance, when asking directions to the next major town (thinking I've mastered the pronounciation) villagers don't understand me, and often they pronounce the same name quite differently. It is indeed handy to have a map with place names written in both western and Chinese! In China one can find just about anything - except under arm deodorant. In my efforts to explain to shopkeepers what I want (with my best impression of lifting my arm and applying the roll-on), I've been offered a bizarre range of items - eg. wash cloth, air freshener, hair removal cream, and even an electric razor! The route NW through Yunnan province has not been as hilly as before, although there have been some gear-grinding episodes (there is no flat land here!). In one patch along a river gorge there were a number of pitch-dark narrow tunnels with broken road surface, and in the dark both of us dropped our bikes into the muddy rock-side ditch in an effort to get away from traffic. We took it fairly easy though, as Leana has not yet recovered her fitness after illness. We also took the opportunity to extend our visas for another month in the city of Chuxiong, where we stayed for a day. Daily distances cycled since Kunming were:- A Village 79 km; Lufeng 38 km; Chuxionh 83 km; Shaqiao 61 km; Xianyun 95 km: Xia Guan 71 km; and Dali 14 km. Total distance on this journey cycled is 48 077 km.

GRINDING THROUGH YUNNAN

2009-10-02T09:14:00.000-05:00

I lost Leana in the city of Jinghong! She was staying elsewhere, and left before me, I wasn’t sure in which direction. I was planning to head towards the provincial capital of Yunnan province – Kunming – where I could apparently get bike spares, so I headed off in that direction. I expected to cover the less than 500 k’s in 4 or 5 days – after all we’d been on the highway thus far in China, and I didn’t expect that to change. After only a short distance I was in for a rude awakening! The highway turned into a hi-tech Expressway, and I was politely escorted onto the “Old Road” by the police. One of the policemen spoke some English, and he informed me that the old road to Kunming was a “bit further”, there were “some hills”, but I would be “closer to nature”. Of course he was right on all 3 counts, but BY JUPITER what an understatement! The distance to Kunming turned out to be more than 700 km winding up and down serious mountain passes (most of the hills were between 15 and 30 km long). The road condition was somewhat poor in many places, making it rather hard on Old Saartjie (my rather worn-out bike). On day 1 the chain broke, and on day 2 the front brakes packed up – and so it went on. At least I was able to camp a couple of times in the mountains, and I booked into cheap rooms at other times to take a shower and do laundry. Food is very cheap, and one can get a wholesome tasty meal from the vendors for next to nothing. After 10 gruelling days I dragged myself into the well-known “Cloudlands” travelers hostel – to find Leana already there. She’d been very ill on the road, and I find it amazing that – under those conditions – she managed to cycle most of that route before deciding to take a bus. Now, after a few days in the city Leana is still rather weak, so we’ll wait here for her to recover. In the mean time I found some good bike spares, so at least one of us – Old Saartjie – is ready to proceed further into China. Daily distances cycled since Jinghong were:- Puyen area 70 km; Simao 85 km; Pu’er 55 km; Mountains 78 km; Mojian 73 km; Xing Cheng 75 km; Yang Wu 64 km; Eshan 60 km; Jinning 76 km; and Kunming 71 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town at the start of this journey is 47 636 km.

CROSSING TO CHINA

2009-10-02T09:11:00.000-05:00

Immediately we had a pleasant surprise! After the poor roads we’d been on for the previous few days it was nice to go the last 20 k’s to the border on a new Chinese-built road. When we got to the new modern Chinese border post I felt a bit self-conscious amonst the few luxury-bus passengers in my old garb (toes sticking out of my shoes, shirt ripped down the back, and smelling like a rat). I wished that the marble-tiled hall was more crowded so that I wouldn’t be so conspicuous. From the border we were welcomed into China and onto the new highway – a series of tunnels and high bridges, spanning valleys and zooting through hills. Some of the tunnels were a few k’s long with dark sections in the middle (hectic on a bicycle without headlights). Along the road we met Swiss cyclist, Christoph, who had more luggage than me (he even had a trailer). On our approach to the city of Jinghong (on the Mekong river, again) we met 2 more cyclists coming the opposite way – Kathy and Sandro, who’ve been cycling all the way from their home in Austria, and were on their way to Singapore. Right now I’m taking a rest in Jinghong, and am enjoying the local quisine. Leana is staying elsewhere in the city (one needs breating space now and then), Distances cycled since Laos have been:- Mengla 72 km; Menglun 76 km; and Jinghong 78 km. Total since CT is 46 927 km.

LOFTY LAOS

2009-10-02T08:58:00.000-05:00

After spending a week in Vientiane it was time to get a move-on through the North of Laos as once again, our visas were running short. For the first day or 2 up to the backpacker hang-out of Vang Vieng the terrain made for a relaxing ride. After that the Earth turned on its side as we found ourselves grinding up long mountain passes and flying down the brake-smoking counter sides. On the uphills Leana tended to pull away from me, due to my heavy bike as well as my reluctance to put pressure on the already worn second-hand parts (or perhaps she’s just stronger than me). However, on the downhills my bike, Old Saartjie (a good downhill runner) was almost unstoppable. I had to know my braking in the innumerable bumpy corners, else me and Old Saarjie may have still been hanging from the branches in the beautiful indigenous misty mountain forest. The last 2 days to the border were the slowest, with the broken road surface adding to our problems. Heavy rain turned the unpaved sections into a veritable clay pit, coating tyres and making for some fun “ice-skating”. At least there was a heroes welcome at the crest of every big hill, where there was usually a village. Even the local motorbikes had trouble, as was evidenced by skid marks and tell-tale footprints in the mud. As has happened from time to time, at our last stop before the border we stayed at the same place as 2 other cyclists (Julian and Aurore from France), on their way South from China. Daily distances cycled since Vientiane were:- Hin Hoeup 102 km; Vang Vieng 69 km; Kasi 61 km; Phou Khoun 47 km; Xiang Nguen 106 km; Luang Prabang 26 km; Pak Mong 116 km; Oudom Xai 84 km; and Natei 82 km. Total distance since leaving Cape Town is 46 703 km.

LOAFING IN LAOS

2009-09-04T05:25:00.000-05:00

Since my last report from Savannakett in Southern Laos, we've advanced to the capital, Vientiane. I say "we" with some reservation, as Leana probably got tired of my "Ugly Mug" (who can blame her?) and sent me on may way. However, fate has a way of intervening, and on that very day her front wheel hub collapsed. After struggling along, she "happened" to find me where I was staying for the night. After sourcing an ancient rusty spare hub at a small all-purpose store the following morning, I spent most of that day repairing Leana's bike. We subsequently cruised to Vientiane via some beautiful river- and hilly tropical scenery - very tasty dried/smoked fish at the roadside! Vientiane, on the banks of the Mekong river, is not at all a bad place as far as capital cities go - I've been cycling around a bit to explore the place, including the giant stupa in the picure (I'm sure it has a name). The "Arc De Triomph" (it also has a name) was built in 1959 from cement donated by the USA for airport construction - now some jokers refer to it as the "vertical runway". The main problem for me was still that I had limited gears due to a useless middle chain-ring. I'd been informed of a good bike shop in the city (the only one), which happened to be closed for the first 4 days after we arrived. Once re-opened, Leana bought a new front hub, but my spares would have taken too long on order so the owner gave me a 2nd-hand part - which is better than what I had, but won't last long. I was still focused on heading for China (even after all the disappointments in that regard over the past year or more), so I applied for a visa - which was granted, no questions asked! As it seemed so easy Leana also got a Chinese visa, but now she's not quite sure what to make of it. Daily distances cycled since my last report were:- Tha Khaek 131 km; Vieng Kham 109 km; Pakxan 91 km; Ban Hai 90 km; and Vientiane 70 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town at the start of this journey is 46 010 km.