THE WINDS OF CHANGE

The SABC weather reporter gave an elaborate sweep of her arm to indicate the movement of a cold front from West to East. This meant good news for us - a tail wind! We flew from Storms River to J-Bay to the Sundays River and Paterson (in the process we passed 1000 km's since leaving CT). After that the wind was variable, sometimes from the front. At least it was behind us on Saturday PM as we tried unsuccessfully to beat nightfall into Cradock after losing time with an early head wind and flat tyre. This sight prompted one of the farm labourers along the way to shout after Leana: "Trap hom Mêrrim, trap hom!". Since leaving CT we've had no flat tyres, and now there were 2 on consecutive days. The first flat was at the beginning of Olifantskop pass on Friday (no elephant, but giraffe were browsing right next to the road), and the second was the next day at the beginning of the Daggaboersnek pass (no dagga, just some monkeys who'd become road kill). Yesterday we battled to Cradock against a head wind, and decided to make today a rest day at the Cradock Spa (the hot pool is unfortunately out of order). We need a rest, and it gives us an opportunity to do some washing (and also the internet thing). I hope a warm wind comes up to dry the washing.
Distances since Storms River were: Jeffreys Bay 114 k; Colchester 116 k; Paterson 36 k; Middleton 69 k; Guest Farm before Cradock 83 k; Cradock 33 k.

STROLLING THROUGH THE GARDEN

It seems that since we're travelling through SA's Garden Route our efforts are easing a little. For the first 2 days after leaving Stil Bay we were assisted by a tail wind. While camping at The Wilderness the garden was watered (rain storm) so we decided to take a rest day there (it was also nice to meet Botha, Anria & family for dinner). The past 3 days have been fairly easy (I didn't want to strain myself on my birthday yesterday). Leana's sister, Amanda, has also been to visit, and transported our baggage for 2 days (now that's really taking it easy!). This morning started with a mean hill (plus baggage again) out of Keurboomstrand where we camped last night. At the top of the hill we met up with Nico who fed us hot cross buns and coke. After that we had an easy cruise with the wind to Storms River village where we are camping at the Backpackers. Incidentally, as we sneaked through a gate at the Tsitsikama toll plaza we stet off an alarm (it seems they still haven't caught up with us!). Some people didn't think we were taking it all that easy. While grinding up a long hill the other day 2 small boys emerged from the surrounding farmlands and trotted alongside. One asked what was in the bags, and when I told him that it was my clothes and things he responded: "O, trek meneer-hulle dan?" (Are you moving home?).

Distances since Stil Bay were:-

- Mossel Bay (mostly gravel rd) 93k

- Wilderness 74k

- Knysna (into wind) 54k

- Keurboomstrand 47k

- Storms River 58k

KOM NOU SAARTJIE!

Being constantly accompanied by an object (such as my bike), one may start to personify that object. I'm convinced my bike has a distinct personality (similar to the cart-donkey in a TV ad some time ago). Therefore I often have to coakes her with the phrase "kom nou Saartjie!". Some days I find Saartjie quite keen to hit the road, and on other days she's rather stubborn and sluggish. I can't really blame her for dragging her feet on the uphills (considering the heavy load). On the contrary old Saartjie is undoubtedly a downhill runner, hauling anything she can spot ahead. Coming down the Kaaimans River Pass she was pushing hard behind a car, and would have overtaken if the road had been any wider. The 60km speed limit was convincingly exceeded, but I was concentrating too hard on the reigns to notice if the permanent speed camera flashed or not (just imagine the astonishment of the traffic official examining the film!). By the way, in the process we also crossed the first (provincial) border.

CURIOSITY IN MOTION

Touring with a loaded bicyle is not recommended for the shy person who prefers to blend into the background. We constantly attract curious onlookers, and passing motorists hoot and wave (and we haven't even left the Western Cape yet!). When we stop at places the spectators stare at the bikes, take photo's, and paw the luggage (but I've yet to see someone actually lift my bike). Questions abound, such as: "What sort of spares do you carry?"; "How much does this lot weigh?"; and "Don't you get tired?". One chappie (referring to the drinking tube protruding from my backpack) asked if that was my oxygen supply (I wish!). On one occasion my answer "that I was planning to travel through Africa" was met with a blank stare, but when I said that we'd come from Cape Town the response was "that's a very long way". One elderly gentleman in a small town suggested (with tears in his eyes) that I should visit the Shepherds Hotel in Cairo where he'd once stayed as a child. He wasn't sure if the hotel still had the same name, but I would apparently recognise it by the 2 lions at the entrance.

ROLLERCOASTER RIDING

I've always known that the Western Cape is a hilly region (and windy - as we've experienced it). Since leaving Hermanus 5 days ago the pedalling has been quite taxing. Given that I'm in a rather unfit and overweight condition, I suppose this could be called a crash course in fitness. Also, there is a massive difference between normal cycling and touring with a loaded bike (everything including the kitchen sink). Take for example our average speed these past few days (10 to 15 kph). However, don't be concerned, we're getting along quite well. I even had to scale a fence and replenish our water supply from a sheep trough the other day (I'm sure not for the last time). The toughest stretch so far was from Gansbaai to Bredasdorp, mostly on (poor) gravel roads. We arrived at Bredasdorp in the dark after 9h30m on the road (the horseflies probably sucked out litres of blood every time we stopped).

Daily distances were as follows: Hermanus to Gansbaai (52k); Bredasdorp (101k); Swellendam (76k); Heidelberg (60k); and Stil Bay (73k). Today is a rest day (and also Leana's birthday).

ON THE ROAD EVENTUALLY

We left from Tableview beachfront in Cape Town on Tuesday morning (eventually). Thank you to everyone who came to see us off (see picture).

Leana still had some business in CT during the day, so I cycled to Kleinmond where she met up with me that evening. I covered 115 km on the day. I would like to thank the guy from the Seafood Deli in Kleinmond for delivering my backpack to me at the camp site (after I'd forgotten it in his shop - and by the way, his fried fish is really worth trying).

Yesterday we only did 38km to Hermanus (second picture), where we had lunch with my sister Olga. We stayed overningt in Dave & Kathy's holiday flat (thanks a lot). Once I get this internet thing sorted out we will carry on towards Gansbaai. We need to be in Stil Bay on 3 April, so my next post may be from there.

READY FOR TAKE-OFF?

The obvious question is: "Will this contraption fly?" Another question may be: "Where does the pilot sit?"

Anyway, I thought I'd just illustrate why I may not be at the starting point on time (if I ever make the 2 k's there). Just to add to the excitement, there is a howling SE wind (incidentally the direction I intend to go). I hope you all have a good day tomorrow as well.

I'll probably be leaving on my own tomorrow, as Leana still has some business to do tomorrow (she should join me tomorrow night - does this have something to do with the wind?).