THE "BLOEM TO BLOEM" JETSTREAM

Leaving Bloemfontein I was fortunate to have a tail wind, and after 2 days of rest old Saartjie (my bike) was keen to run with the breeze. In fact Saartjie was so keen that 2 days later I was sitting on the banks of the Vaal River just downstream of the Bloemhof Dam. In the process I passed 2000 k's since leaving CT. But this all has nothing to do with the story I want to tell. My story has to do with the "filling" in the "2-Bloem sandwich". Arriving at Bultfontein at 14h30 on the Sunday of a "long" weekend isn't easy. For a while I was convinced that there were only 2 inhabitants of the town, and both of them were petrol attendants. I started to slowly cruise the streets, and after about 20 minutes (5th lap) I noticed people on the lawn of a house. It turned out to be the co-owner of the Bultfontein Hotel, who invited me into his home for a meal. He then gave me a room and breakfast in the Hotel (free of charge). He is in the process of upgrading the hotel, and if you are in the area please contact Mr Porro Botha at 0738409296 vrsptyltd@iafrica.com (Thanks Porro - see picture).

TIGHTENING THE MIELIE BELT

For the past few days I've been travelling through SA's "Maize Belt" (there's even a railway siding called "Mieliebelt"). For long distances at a time all one can see is maize fields connected by huge grain elevators every 20 k's or so. Another belt I've been able to tighten is my own. For months before I left CT people have been saying I'm wise to fatten up before embarking on a mission of this nature. To my own embarrassment it seems I may have overdone the preparations (see early photo's). Fortunately, I'm almost able to see my feet again! A further belt which I'll have to tighten is the one which controls the finances. I've been having a royal time so far, but at this rate I may not even reach Nietverdiend (which would be rather appropriate). Anyway, I'm sitting in Lichtenburg writing all this nonsense, which is more than most people can say (unless you live in Lichtenburg, of course). I'll only be leaving here on Monday, as I have to pick up an article at this post office (which means 3 days of rest). Distances travelled since Bloemfontein are: Bultfontein 104 k; Bloemhof 105 k; Wolmaransstad 72 k; Ottosdal 47 k; and Lichtenburg 89k.

THE LONELY ROAD

This morning Leana left Bloemfontein by train back to CT, from where she will fly to London next week. I will miss her, and I wish her well in her cycle through Europe. (Incidently, my mother was visiting family in Bloem, and was on the same train in the compartment next door to Leana). The train was a couple of hours late, so I've decided to stay over another night. My intention was to leave here for Swaziland and Mocambique, but I've changed my mind and will now head for Botswana tomorrow.

HELLO, GOODBYE, DUMELA!

In our short trip through Lesotho this week we found the people to be particularly friendly. The children followed us in hordes, practising their English (some said "hello", some said "goodbye", and some said "good morning" in the pm). Others greeted us with "dumela", and everyone shouted and waved, even from across the valeys as we cycled along. Whenever we stopped there was soon a crowd of curious onlookers (not only children). If we made a move (eg. to open a bag), then one could sense a ripple of expectant excitement running through the crowd (who were usually standing in a semi-circle around us). Tomorrow morning I also say goodbye to Leana who takes the train back to Cape Town. She leaves for London on the 5th, from where she plans to cycle through the UK and Europe (see the link to her website in the column on the right).

BORDER HOPPING

This section since Aliwal North has been a hectic few days of crossing rivers and borders. Firstly we crossed the Orange river into the Free State (where we camped at Zastron). The next day we headed for Lesotho along a bumpy gravel road, and crossed at the Makhaleng Bridge border post. That evening we booked into a local hotel in Mohales Hoek (supper was pap, meat, and marogo). The next day we cycled in Lesotho via Mafeteng, and crossed back into SA at Van Rooyens Gate near Wepener. The following day we crossed the Caledon river on our way to Bloemfontein, staying over in Dewetsdorp. In Bloem I had a buckled rear wheel repaired and 2 broken spokes replaced (no charge - thanks Cyclo City). I also bought a new tent, as I don't think my faithful 20-year old tent will last the trip through Africa. Distances since Aliwal were: Zastron 79k; Mohales Hoek 56k; Wepener 74k; Dewetsdorp 43k; and Bloemfontein 80k.

THE WATERSHED

Now I'm not referring to the buckets of sweat which I've been shedding on the uphills! Rather, looking at a map of the area we've been travelling through these past few days, it seems that the rivers flow away from us (N to the Orange river, and S to the coast). Also, the rain comes down with a force strong enough to feed all those rivers. Coming from CT we're not used to this sort of thunderstorm weather. At Steynsburg we pulled into the Redefin camp site where the owner (Mike) advised us to pitch out tents under the lapa roof. The sun was shining at the time, but that evening a storm broke loose which wet our tents even under the roof (and killed our fire). The following evening at Burgersdorp dam we became clever and sheltered under the protection of a shed (with train coach sides), thus avoiding the evening storm. Last night we camped at the Aliwal Spa (no shelter), where it rained for most of the night. The Spa (which was once a fancy resort) has now become so dilapidated that one could refer to the remaining indoor pool as a "water shed". Distances travelled since Cradock were: Hofmeyr (60k); Steynsburg (46k); Burgersdorp (78k); and Aliwal North (67k).

ROADSIDE QUISINE

Meals at this stage of the journey are still pretty much what I've been used to at home. In the evenings we usually cook our food on our stoves, or braai (there are enough shops along the way to buy the necessary). Sometimes we've stopped along the way for breakfast, and when there have been facilities we've eaten out in the evening (e.g. last night we went to the Spur here in Aliwal). Our camp sites have seldom been close to the restaurants, so we've had to return "home" in the dark (with light of course). Mostly the restaurants have asked us to bring our bikes inside for safety.