BOTSWANA BUSH-BIKING

Awakening from a pleasant dream the other night, it took a while for me to orientate myself. Then I realised that I was in a tiny Botwana village, camping in someone's dusty backyard somewhere between the chicken run and the vegge patch (and I'm grateful to those people, also for giving me of their scarce water). The following day I had a head-on battle with a dust storm to reach Mahalapye, where I camped next to a "lodge". The big shots of Botswana Railways were having a dinner party at the lodge, and I thank them for providing me with a large plate of food (pap, meat, and salad), as well as a drink. Enquiring about camping at one lodge, I asked the receptionist if they had a spot where I could put my tent. She went off to find out from the manager, and when she returned she said I could just leave my tent in the reception office! Arriving in Palapye yesterday I was surprised to even see a sign indicating a camp site. I followed the sign expecting at best a fenced-off patch of baked red earth, perhaps sprouting some thorn trees. Great was my surprise when I arrived at Itumela Camp and found it to be a veritable oasis, also catering for the likes of overland adventure groups (I even watched the rugby on a big screen). So, I've decided to take a rest day here in Palapye today, doing my washing and the internet (courtesy of the management - in their home).

BUSHVELD BASHING

Actually, this section has been quite a smooth ride, but that doesn't rhyme with "bushveld". I stayed at Lichtenburg waiting for my drivers licence to arrive on Monday am (and it was there!). The cruise to Zeerust was comfortable, watching the mielies turn to bush and cattle country. Appropriately the Pub & Grill next to the camp site in Zeerust was called "The Bull & Bush". I've enjoyed reading the work of Herman Charles Bosman (which plays off the that region). His narrator (Oom Schalk Lourens) was often drinking coffee in the P.O. at the start of a story, but as I was having breakfast at the Wimpy I realized that those days have gone. The Botswana policeman at the Shilpadhek border post informed me that there was nothing of interest at Lobatse (the next town inside Botswana). I found out he was right, and went on to a sprawling village called Otse, where there was even less of interest. They advertise a non-existent camp site, so after some time I found the Baratani Lodge which also didn't cater for tents. The staff took pity on me and decided that I could camp on the lawn for half the price of a room. However, after some lengthy deliberation they gave me a room at the same price as camping (which they didn't have). This morning I hit the road to Gaborone quite early, so that I could do some business and find a camp site. The business has been done, and I hear there is a "Bull & Bush" here as well (with a camp site attached). Distances since Lichtenburg are: Zeerust 88 k; Otse 87k; and Gaborone 65 k (most of it in the town looking for places).

THE "BLOEM TO BLOEM" JETSTREAM

Leaving Bloemfontein I was fortunate to have a tail wind, and after 2 days of rest old Saartjie (my bike) was keen to run with the breeze. In fact Saartjie was so keen that 2 days later I was sitting on the banks of the Vaal River just downstream of the Bloemhof Dam. In the process I passed 2000 k's since leaving CT. But this all has nothing to do with the story I want to tell. My story has to do with the "filling" in the "2-Bloem sandwich". Arriving at Bultfontein at 14h30 on the Sunday of a "long" weekend isn't easy. For a while I was convinced that there were only 2 inhabitants of the town, and both of them were petrol attendants. I started to slowly cruise the streets, and after about 20 minutes (5th lap) I noticed people on the lawn of a house. It turned out to be the co-owner of the Bultfontein Hotel, who invited me into his home for a meal. He then gave me a room and breakfast in the Hotel (free of charge). He is in the process of upgrading the hotel, and if you are in the area please contact Mr Porro Botha at 0738409296 vrsptyltd@iafrica.com (Thanks Porro - see picture).

TIGHTENING THE MIELIE BELT

For the past few days I've been travelling through SA's "Maize Belt" (there's even a railway siding called "Mieliebelt"). For long distances at a time all one can see is maize fields connected by huge grain elevators every 20 k's or so. Another belt I've been able to tighten is my own. For months before I left CT people have been saying I'm wise to fatten up before embarking on a mission of this nature. To my own embarrassment it seems I may have overdone the preparations (see early photo's). Fortunately, I'm almost able to see my feet again! A further belt which I'll have to tighten is the one which controls the finances. I've been having a royal time so far, but at this rate I may not even reach Nietverdiend (which would be rather appropriate). Anyway, I'm sitting in Lichtenburg writing all this nonsense, which is more than most people can say (unless you live in Lichtenburg, of course). I'll only be leaving here on Monday, as I have to pick up an article at this post office (which means 3 days of rest). Distances travelled since Bloemfontein are: Bultfontein 104 k; Bloemhof 105 k; Wolmaransstad 72 k; Ottosdal 47 k; and Lichtenburg 89k.

THE LONELY ROAD

This morning Leana left Bloemfontein by train back to CT, from where she will fly to London next week. I will miss her, and I wish her well in her cycle through Europe. (Incidently, my mother was visiting family in Bloem, and was on the same train in the compartment next door to Leana). The train was a couple of hours late, so I've decided to stay over another night. My intention was to leave here for Swaziland and Mocambique, but I've changed my mind and will now head for Botswana tomorrow.

HELLO, GOODBYE, DUMELA!

In our short trip through Lesotho this week we found the people to be particularly friendly. The children followed us in hordes, practising their English (some said "hello", some said "goodbye", and some said "good morning" in the pm). Others greeted us with "dumela", and everyone shouted and waved, even from across the valeys as we cycled along. Whenever we stopped there was soon a crowd of curious onlookers (not only children). If we made a move (eg. to open a bag), then one could sense a ripple of expectant excitement running through the crowd (who were usually standing in a semi-circle around us). Tomorrow morning I also say goodbye to Leana who takes the train back to Cape Town. She leaves for London on the 5th, from where she plans to cycle through the UK and Europe (see the link to her website in the column on the right).

BORDER HOPPING

This section since Aliwal North has been a hectic few days of crossing rivers and borders. Firstly we crossed the Orange river into the Free State (where we camped at Zastron). The next day we headed for Lesotho along a bumpy gravel road, and crossed at the Makhaleng Bridge border post. That evening we booked into a local hotel in Mohales Hoek (supper was pap, meat, and marogo). The next day we cycled in Lesotho via Mafeteng, and crossed back into SA at Van Rooyens Gate near Wepener. The following day we crossed the Caledon river on our way to Bloemfontein, staying over in Dewetsdorp. In Bloem I had a buckled rear wheel repaired and 2 broken spokes replaced (no charge - thanks Cyclo City). I also bought a new tent, as I don't think my faithful 20-year old tent will last the trip through Africa. Distances since Aliwal were: Zastron 79k; Mohales Hoek 56k; Wepener 74k; Dewetsdorp 43k; and Bloemfontein 80k.