SLEEPING IN CLASS

Usually I spend my rest days in a formal camp site, to do washing and the internet, etc. Inbetween rest days I camp in the bush or some other opportune place. One evening at a "guest house" I was informed that I could camp where I wished. I chose the back porch of what seemed like an empty brick house. Later on I noticed a black board on the wall, and it concerned me a bit that the date written there was current. The following morning I awoke to the sound of voices. Bleary-eyed I emerged from my tent and peered over the low wall. Facing me was a crowd of school kids (books and benches in hand), patiently waiting for me to strike camp and leave so that they could proceed with their lessons. That brings me to a question I've been asked: "What determines the daily distances travelled?". Distance depends on the terrain, road condition, destination for the day, and camping availability. So far the roads have been mostly fairly good tarred roads. However, in some places I've found it better to cycle on the gravel alongside (potholes and dangerous traffic). Today I'm resting at a camp site outside Chipata, and I'll probably move towards Malawi tomorrow. Distances since Lusaka were: Rafunsa Hills 125 km; Luangwo Bridge 120 km; Kachololo 65 km; Petauke 124 km; Katate 94 km; and Chipata 103 km.

SAARTJIE MEETS THE RELATIVES

Since we've been in Zambia my bike (old Saartjie) has had her eyes wide in amazement - there are so many bicycles around! Anything here is transported by bicycle, from 50 kg bags of mielie meal to the wife and kids. This is the first country on my trip where bicycles have been used this extensively. About 3 days ago I met another cyclist head on - but he was different from the locals. Uri has cycled all the way from Russia, and looks the part. I had an interesting discussion with him regarding his trip, and amongst other things we discovered that we were born 9 days apart (apparently I'm the eldest!). I'm now in Lusaka, having a rest day camping at the Chachacha Backpackers. This morning I washed my clothes and gave Saartjie some much needed attention. My trip has now lasted more than 4000 km, and tomorrow I carry on East towards Malawi (about 2 weeks away). Distances since Vic Falls were: Livingstone 15 km; Kalamo Bush 110 km; Choma 89 km; Chisekese 87 km; Mazabuka 83 km; Kafue River 89 km; and Lusaka 54 km.

THE SMOKE THAT THUNDERS

Lying in my tent at 3 AM about a km away, I could hear the roar of the Victoria Falls. It reminded me of the sound of the ocean on a quiet evening. The 4 days from Bulawayo have been tough, but also enjoyable. I've found the Zimbabwean people to be very friendly, especially those in the small villages where I stop for refreshments. I've been through about 7 police road blocks, all of them friendly. When I pass local cyclists I wave and they ring the bell, which made me wonder whether bicycle bells are compulsory. Yesterday the police asked me why I didn't have a bell, and what I would do if I needed one. I told them that I could whistle, which of course I had to demonstrate (to their amusement). The forested countryside is beautiful, but I seem to have missed most of the wild animals which are supposed to be a danger when camping in the bush. One night a kudu strolled past my tent, and at the Shoestring Lodge the baboons were charging around the camp site this AM. I'm resting here in Vic Falls today, and will probably move across the Zambezi to Livingstone tomorrow. Distances since Bulawayo were: Memmezi Forest 112 k; Halfway House 116 k; Hwange 110 k; and Vic Falls 108 k.

WILL THE SKY FALL?

In the village of Asterix, the chief feared only one thing - that the sky would fall on his head. As I cycled across the border into Zimbabwe I had the same feeling. Along the way I'd listened to the horror stories of how I'd be attacked around every corner, and how the corrupt police would confiscate my belongings, etc. Amazingly, I'd found the border police to be very friendly and helpful, as I would the following day (two road blocks, and directions from police in Bulawayo). I've generally found the Zim people to be very friendly. Arriving in Plumtree in the late afternoon without any accommodation or camping facilities, I expected to move on and sleep in the bush. Not so, thanks to Thando, Moosa, and Dutchy (not in picture), who provided me with a place to stay and a meal, etc. (free of charge). I also met Major and Navigator, who were keen to show me around their city - Bulawayo. That's one of the advantages of travelling by bicycle, I get to interact with the people. If you're flying through the countryside in your glittering chariot, then you can hardly expect the locals to randomly hop into the road and be kind to you. I even had the opportunity to help someone - a stranded motorist. The fuel line on his car was blocked, and I cleared it with the bicycle pump. After changing some Botswana Pula for Zim $, I wondered whether I should hire someone to ride shotgun on the back of my bike. Suddenly I was a millionaire, with a couple of million $ in my grubby paws. Unfortunately things here tend to cost tens of thousands, but it still works out fairly cheap (bread is less than R2, and especially for the West Coast AC guys, a beer costs around R2). It seems that every third day now is a rest day for me, so I'll camp another night at the Backpackers here in Bulawayo. Distances since Francistown were: Plumtree 99 k; Bulawayo 105 k.

THE LONG AND THE SHORT OF IT

I've heard of the road reserve being referred to as the "long farm" (re hunting or grazing) - but it is rather short from side to side. I suppose I can refer to it as the "long campsite", which is were I camped a short while ago (in the Foley area). I did the long haul there so that I could do the shorter haul to Francistown the following day (and the shortest haul was around the town looking for places). One of those places was the bank, where I stood in a long que for a long time (perhaps they were short-staffed, or short on cash). Today I have a rest day in the very nice Marang Hotel camp site, which is the sort of place I've long looked forward to (although my pleasure will be cut short tomorrow again). Oh yes, I've added up the long k's, and it appears I'm only about 5 k's short of 3000. It shows by the suntan (picture), from wearing the long cycling shorts. So, to cut a long story short, distances since Gaborone have been: Dibete 116 k; Mahalapye 96 k; Palapye 74 k; Foley 111 k; and Francistown 76 k.

BOTSWANA BUSH-BIKING

Awakening from a pleasant dream the other night, it took a while for me to orientate myself. Then I realised that I was in a tiny Botwana village, camping in someone's dusty backyard somewhere between the chicken run and the vegge patch (and I'm grateful to those people, also for giving me of their scarce water). The following day I had a head-on battle with a dust storm to reach Mahalapye, where I camped next to a "lodge". The big shots of Botswana Railways were having a dinner party at the lodge, and I thank them for providing me with a large plate of food (pap, meat, and salad), as well as a drink. Enquiring about camping at one lodge, I asked the receptionist if they had a spot where I could put my tent. She went off to find out from the manager, and when she returned she said I could just leave my tent in the reception office! Arriving in Palapye yesterday I was surprised to even see a sign indicating a camp site. I followed the sign expecting at best a fenced-off patch of baked red earth, perhaps sprouting some thorn trees. Great was my surprise when I arrived at Itumela Camp and found it to be a veritable oasis, also catering for the likes of overland adventure groups (I even watched the rugby on a big screen). So, I've decided to take a rest day here in Palapye today, doing my washing and the internet (courtesy of the management - in their home).

BUSHVELD BASHING

Actually, this section has been quite a smooth ride, but that doesn't rhyme with "bushveld". I stayed at Lichtenburg waiting for my drivers licence to arrive on Monday am (and it was there!). The cruise to Zeerust was comfortable, watching the mielies turn to bush and cattle country. Appropriately the Pub & Grill next to the camp site in Zeerust was called "The Bull & Bush". I've enjoyed reading the work of Herman Charles Bosman (which plays off the that region). His narrator (Oom Schalk Lourens) was often drinking coffee in the P.O. at the start of a story, but as I was having breakfast at the Wimpy I realized that those days have gone. The Botswana policeman at the Shilpadhek border post informed me that there was nothing of interest at Lobatse (the next town inside Botswana). I found out he was right, and went on to a sprawling village called Otse, where there was even less of interest. They advertise a non-existent camp site, so after some time I found the Baratani Lodge which also didn't cater for tents. The staff took pity on me and decided that I could camp on the lawn for half the price of a room. However, after some lengthy deliberation they gave me a room at the same price as camping (which they didn't have). This morning I hit the road to Gaborone quite early, so that I could do some business and find a camp site. The business has been done, and I hear there is a "Bull & Bush" here as well (with a camp site attached). Distances since Lichtenburg are: Zeerust 88 k; Otse 87k; and Gaborone 65 k (most of it in the town looking for places).