TWO YEARS TO KATHMANDU

Well, it's not quite 80 days around the world, but then Mr Fogg wasn't travelling by bicycle! I found it quite appropriate that 2 years to the day (27 March) since the start of this journey, I should cross into a new country (Nepal) and also clock over to 38 000 km. I just felt a bit sorry that Leana wasn't with me on that day, as we'd left Cape Town together and have been cycling together for most of these 2 years. After leaving Varanasi I went back East to pick up a parcel at Patna containing a new rear axle. Leana preferred to spend as little time as possible on those hazardous roads, so she headed North to the nearest Nepalese border post (I may as well have joined her, because after wasting 2 days in the rather miserable city of Patna the parcel had still not arrived - so I decided to forget it and head for Nepal as well). And so it happened that after a few more days in India of poor roads and more TV interviews, I crossed into Nepal. I took an instant liking to the Nepali people, particularly those along the small mountain roads. Yes, I said "SMALL MOUNTAIN ROADS", where I was also surprised to find myself. I'd intended to take the direct route to Kathmandu as it would save me almost 200 k's and I would also avoid the heavy traffic (the road is too steep and narrow for trucks and busses). Somewhere along the way I received faulty directions and soon I was on an unpaved rocky track, battling up and down steep mountains (with a broken rear axle!). There was hardly any traffic though, and I got to meet the wonderful local people - I even camped in a tiny village right at the top of a mountain. My route turned out to be a shortcut, and when I reached Kathmandu I discovered that Leana wasn't here yet (apparently she was enjoying herself, riding elephants in game parks, etc.). She eventually arrived here a couple of days ago in the pouring rain. Since then we've wandered around the city a bit, taking in some of the sights such as Hanuman Durbar Square (a world heritage site). We're also trying to make plans to continue cycling, but the only place to proceed from here, Tibet, seems to be a problem (where to from here?). Fortunately I've found a replacement axle - after cycling almost 3000 km with the broken rear axle which was held together only by the "quick release mechanism". Today is Leana's birthday, her 3rd birthday on the road (the 8th will be my 3rd as well). I expect that tonight we'll celebrate by splashing out for a pizza - we're staying in the touristy area of Kathmandu called Thamel, where there are many western-style restaurants, etc. (the cheap accommodation is also in Thamel). Daily distances which I've cycled since my last update from Varanasi were:- Buxar 135 km; Patna 139 km; Muzaffarpur 74 km; Motihari 94 km; Simara (Nepal) 84 km; Kulekhani Mtn 67 km; and Kathmandu 51 km. Total distance in 2 years since leaving Cape Town is 38 151 km.

HOLY COW!

Varanasi, one of the most holy Hindu sites, is a chaotic place where thousands of pilgrims flock to each day in order to wash their sins away in the polluted Ganges River. It is also a place where the dead are cremated at the riverside ghats, and those who die in the city are liberated from the continuous cycle of death and re-birth. For me the cycle seems to continue - I was here at Varanasi in October, and 5 months later here I am again. In fact, recently I've been back to a number of places I've previously visited on my way through India. On the other hand, as Leana and I have been working our way North towards Nepal, we've had the time to divert from the main roads and have seen many interesting things which I'd previously missed. Amongst these are the Lord Jagarnath Temple at Puri (photo), and the Sun Temple at Konark (night photo). We've also cycled through areas where foreign tourists are seldom seen, particularly in the States of Bihar and Jharkand (even in the capital cities of these 2 states - Patna and Ranchi - most budget hotels don't accommodate foreigners). On occasion we were again swamped by the media, with exposure in both the local papers and the TV news. Earlier this month we witnessed the national celebration of Holi (Hindu Day), where everyone rubs paint on each others faces and coloured liquid is thrown on clothing. Tourists aren't spared in the process (I was pleased to find that the colour washes out), and neither are animals (see photo of pink duck). During the couple of festival days it's fairly common to see cows, goats, and dogs sheepishly sporting bright technicolour coats. Our original intention was to take the shortest route North to Nepal via Patna, where I've had some cycle spares posted. Unfortunately not all of the spares had arrived, so in the mean time we diverted to Varanasi, which Leana has not yet seen. The Old City area with it's riverside ghats and chaotic narrow maze of alleys, is quite an interesting place (Holy Cows and Holy Men included - No, that's not a recent photo of myself!). We will soon return to Patna, and I hope the rest of the cycle spares will be there, as I've now cycled about 2000 km with a broken rear axle (with my fingers crossed). Daily distances cycled since my last update from Visakhapatnam have been:- Srikakulam 109 km; Palasa 89 km; Gupalpur 93 km; Balagoan 86 km; Puri 169 km; Konark 45 km; Bhubaneshwar 64 km; Chandikhol 81 km; Balasore 137 km; Baripada 58 km; Ghatsila 99 km; Jamshedpur 50 km; Bundu 94 km; Ranchi 47 km; Hazaribag 95 km; Bodhgaya 126 km; Patna 135 km; Ara 65 km; Buxar 74 km; Varanasi 135 km. Total distance cycled since Cape Town is 37 507 km.

BREAKING NEWS

Well, I suppose the news is that I'm still in India. Both Leana and I have decided to head North from Chennai, in the direction of Nepal. Two months ago I was charging down this coast in a Southerly direction, mostly along the highways as I was in somewhat of a hurry. In some of the towns we've even stayed in the same crumby lodges which I'd occupied a couple of months ago - didn't expect to see those places again. Now we're travelling in a more relaxed fashion, and where possible have deviated onto smaller roads along the coast and through endless rural villages and towns. We've lost our way a few times, mostly due to the inventive nature of local directions. And now, the real news story: We were stopped and interviewed by local newspaper reporters every day for about 5 consecutive days. Most of those reporters were apparently working for the biggest-selling daily newspaper in this state - Andhra Pradesh. (I can just imagine the editor receiving yet another photo of us and exclaiming "Oh No - not these 2 again!"). However, people started running up to us with newspapers so we could see the reports, and the attached 4 pictures seem to be from 4 different papers (although I have no idea what is written there). To crown it all, when we arrived in the town of Tuni 2 days ago we were stopped in the main street by the TV News (causing an immediate traffic jam). We were filmed and interviewed by the local Andhra TV channel, as well as by TV5. The next day people were asking for autographs and offering us fruit along the road. Now we're taking a rest in the port city of Visakhapatnam, about half way between Chennai and Kolkata on India's East coast. Daily distances cycled since Chennai are:- Nayadupeta 118 km; Kavali 130 km; Ongole 71 km; Voderevu Beach 70 km; Challapalle 96 km; Narasapuram 128 km; Yanam 79 km; Tuni 105 km; Visakhapatnam 109 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town is 35 656 km.

SAMPLING THE SOUTH

India is roughly comprised of 28 states and a few other territories, each with it's own unique character. Just about every state has it's own predominant local language, besides Hindi which is commonly spoken all over the country. The place-names are often a reflection of the local tongue. Here in the populous South-eastern state of Tamil Nadu, some of the names can be tricky tongue-twisters (see "daily distances" at the end of this post). It's not surprising then that locals refer to many of these places by abbreviated names, which in itself can be tricky when asking for directions. The food as well is distinctive, and locals take pride in their famed South-Indian dishes - to which I've rather taken a liking (fortunately for me the food is cheap). Tamil Nadu state has many temples and other holy sites, which often consist of beatiful elaborately decorated structures in the "Dravidian" style (such as in the region of cities like Thiruchirappalli and Madurai) (see top picture). The town of Mamallaporam is a world heritage site due to it's ancient rock-carved temple (see second picture) and other structures, as well as being a laid-back beach haven for travellers. Since leaving Cape Comorin we've woven our way, often on back roads, via many of these places of interest. On the back roads the traffic is not that hectic, and one sees more of village life such as the practice of spreading harvested sheaves of rice in the road to be threshed by the traffic (I also did my part in the process). We even deviated to the small coastal village of Pichavaram, where we took a row-boat on the backwater channels amongst the mangroves. This village, as well as many others along this section of coastline, are still in the process of rebuilding after the devastating tsunami of 26 Dec 2004. We also spent a day or 2 in the former French territory of Pondicherry, where the "flavour of France" is still very evident. For the past few days Leana and I have cycled apart, but then (inevitably) more than once we ended up at the same place at night as budget accommodation in peak season is rather limited. Now we're both in Chennai, staying at a very interesting old travellers favourite lodge (see bottom picture). I'm not sure where I'll be going from here (I'm even considering hitching a ride on a ship to Thailand, but my initial enquiries don't make me very optimistic about this option). My options are further limited by finances which are in a rather desparate state (please see my request at top r-hand side of page). Daily distances cycled since Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin) have been:- Tirunelveli 83 km; Sattur 83 km; Madurai 81 km; Tirupattur 70 km; Pudukottai 58 km; Thiruchirappalli 55 km; Thanjavur 63 km; Mayiladuthurai 78 km; Pichavaram 58 km; Pondicherry 93 km; Mamallaporam 102 km; and Chennai 66 km. Total distance cycled since Cape Town is 34 750 km.

CAPE TO CAPE

No, I'm not on my way back to Cape Town. Instead, I'm at the Southern tip of India, Cape Comorin at the covergence of 3 seas (Bay of Bengal; Indian Ocean; Arabian Sea). Since my last update from Mangalore about 3 weeks ago, I've been cycling South down the West coast of India, mostly through the beatiful state of Kerala. Compared to my hectic routine of the previous few months this has been a welcome holiday cruise. On 24 December we'd hardly started cycling when we came accross a luxury tented camp practically on the beach (with hammocks, and meals included). The cost was way above my budget, but Leana and her sister Amanda decided that we should treat ourselves by spending Christmas Eve there (last Christmas Leana and I were camping in the Sudanese desert). A week later we were similarly treated by spending 30 and 31 December in a room at a luxury beach resort. A certain part of Kerala is famous for it's backwaters, and all types of boat trips are on offer. From Alleppey (the Venice of the East) to Kollam my 2 companions took the backwater ferry, while I chose to cycle. I arrived at Kollam a few hours ahead of them, which allowed me to find accommodation and start with supper by the time they arrived. The first part of this "stage" was mostly through local areas where there are few foreign tourists, and the curious locals were all over us on the few occasions where we camped on the beach. From Kotchi (Vasco Da Gama's landing) we started to encounter tourists, and places like Varkala and Kovalam are crowded resort beaches, teeming with tourists and all the infrastructure which they attract. This coast is also popular with bicycle tourists, and we met a number of foreign cyclists along our way (one guy from USA bought his un-geared bike on arrival in Mumbai - I was not surprised at his admission that he spends a lot of time pushing!). The only mishap in these past few weeks has been when I had to replace the rear rim on my bike - the 3rd of this trip (luckily I was carrying a spare rim). This time the cause of the trouble was neither the weight of my bike nor road conditions. Instead, on the busy morning road out of Calicut I was squashed against a stationery bus by a passing truck, which drove over my back wheel before I could get everything out of the way. Now Amanda's 2-month cycling holiday (I've heard her refer to it as an "ordeal") has come to an end, and Leana has accompanied her by train to Chennai from where she gets her return flight. Before she left Leana and I scavenged whatever parts we could from Amanda's bike (which is still brand new compared to our old "war-horses"). Now I'm waiting at Kayakumari, Cape Comorin, for Leana to return, before we continue on our way. My daily cycling distances since Mangalore have been:- Kappil Beach 68 km; Bekal 20 km; Payyannur 46 km; Kannur 52 km; Payyou 62 km; Calicut 48 km; Calicut (after accident) 5 km; Tanur 53 km; Chavakkad 72 km; Cherai Beach 68 km; Kotchi (Cochin) 28 km; Allapuzha (Alleppey) 66 km; Kollam 88 km; Varkala Beach 38 km; Kovalam 59 km; Takkalai 54 km; and Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin) 36 km. Total distance since leaving Cape Town is 33 860 km.

WILD GOOSE CHASE

A long time ago (when I was a teenager) a slang term for "girlfriend" was "Goose". Well, in less than 3 weeks now I've chased across India from Kolkata to Mangalore for 2400 km to catch up with Leana and her sister Amanda. These 2 have been cycling down the West coast from Mumbai since Leana's recovery from injury, Amanda joining in for a 2-month cycling "holiday". I may have been getting lonely or something, so I decided to try and catch up with Leana before Christmas. The chase was complicated by a mysterious illness which delayed my departure from Kolkata and hampered my progress for the next week or so (painkillers and anti-nausea medicine kept me going). At one stage I also had to replace the front wheel hub on my bike (fortunately I've been carrying a spare), a tricky enough task made somewhat more challenging by spectators all keen to become involved. Broken spokes and continuous punctures due to expired spare tubes added a measure of variation to the long days spent on the bike. One advantage of travelling by bicycle is that my route took me through areas where foreign tourists are seldom seen, and I've been endlessly photographed and "interviewed", and I've given numerous autographs to people who would otherwise not have known my name. I've spent nights in many dew-covered fields, cheap rooms, and even on verandah's of vacant village buildings. One of the most interesting things along the route was the numerous Hindu temples and statues of the Gods, and I was also surprised to see an extra-ordinary Catholic church amongs these (photo). In many of the areas through which I cycled the rice harvest was coming to an end, and it was interesting to see the range of technology used to transport the grain from the field to the threshing floor (see photo of labourers carrying rice attached to bamboo poles). The last day of the chase was down a winding mountain road of which the surface had completely disintegrated due to recent rains and the churning of many truck tyres. I must have looked a sorry sight covered in dust and sweat when I arrived at my destination, but the nice room and welcoming drink soon made the previous 3 weeks seem like a vague dream. Now, after a rest and having scrubbed everything from the soles of my shoes to the top of my cycling helmet, I feel like a new person (of course, I was also very pleased to see Leana again after nearly 2 and a half months apart). I'm looking forward to a more relaxing time, at least for the next few weeks. My bike, Old Saartjie, is the one now in desparate need of some serious attention. Daily distances cycled since Kolkata have been:- Karagpur 142 km; Baleshwar 117 km; Panikoli 108 km; Khorda 158 km; Balugaon 48 km; Gopalpur 77 km; Narassanapeta 137 km; Visakhapatnam 147 km; Annavaram 139 km; Siddanthan 116 km; Bapularadu 122 km; Guntur 130 km; Kavali 135 km; Naidupet 129 km; Chittoor 139 km; Kolar 118 km; Kunigal 116 km; Channatayapatna 102 km; Sakleshpur 93 km; and Mangalore 119 km. Total since start of this journey in Cape Town is 32 997 km. Merry Xmas everyone!

THE EAST END

Three weeks of cycling through Bangladesh has been an interesting experience. This is the most densely populated country on earth, with about 160 million people packed into a relatively small space. I was literally never alone - wherever I looked I could see people, and when I stopped a large crowd would immediately gather around to stare. Very little English is spoken, and road signs as well as writing on buildings etc. is mostly in Bangla (different alphabet). However, I found the people to be extremely friendly and welcoming, often buying me tea at the roadside stalls and thanking me for visiting their country. There are very few tourists, and in these 3 weeks I only spotted a handful of foreigners. In the cities and towns the main form of transport is the cycle riksha, often clogging the narrow streets and bringing traffic to a stand-still. In the capital Dhaka, a city of 15 million, there are apparently more than 600 000 of these riksha's. Flat-bed "cargo riksha's" as well as bicycles are also prevalent. Bangladesh is a beautiful green country with water everywhere (reportedly more water flows through this country than through the whole of Europe). Many of the rivers are navigable, and boats of all shapes and sizes are used to ferry passengers and a variety of cargo. On a few occasions I had to take a ferry ride across wide rivers where there are no bridges. In other places I crossed bridges a few k's long. I also visited the 2nd largest city (Chittagong), where the ship-breaking yards on the beaches North of the city can be seen from the road (I was not permitted to take photo's or even enter the yards). I also went further South-East (almost as far as the road goes) to swim at the beach of the "holiday city" Cox's Bazar. In Comilla I was interviewed by the editor of the local newpaper, Bakin Rabbi. He and his wife (Shahan) invited me to stay for the night, and they fed me so well that I must have made a big dent in their food budget. The most dangerous thing I found in Bangladesh is the continuous stream of busses on the main roads. The bus drivers obviously have visions of Grand Prix racing as they charge flat-out through villages along the crowded narrow roads (I did see quite a number of accidents). I suppose the next most dangerous thing was at Cox's Bazar, where I woke during the night to find a cat burglar on the ledge outside my 3rd floor window fishing for valuables through the burglar bars with a bamboo pole (he managed to escape with 2 banana's). I've now returned to India, and am back in Kolkata with a brand-new visa. All I need now is money, as my stash has just about run out. Daily distances cycled since my last report are:- Bangoan 81 km; Jessore 48 km; Faridpur 98 km; Manikganj 68 km; Dhaka 68 km; Comilla 95 km; Chittagong 163 km; Cox's Bazar 172 km; Chittagong 152 km; Feni 98 km; Comilla 60 km; Dhaka 97 km; Faridpur 128 km; Jessore 98 km; Kolkata 127 km. Total distance since the start of this jouney is 30 605 km.