BIKING BORNEO

After the 22 hr ferry ride from Java, Leana and I were relieved to eventually wheel off into Kalimantan (Indonesian part of Borneo). The final part of the voyage had been up the Barito River to Banjarmasin, and even in the gathering dusk we could see that many people here spend their life on and around the water. As Leana was unwell, we spent a couple of days in Banjarmasin, an interesting city disected by a maze of rivers and canals. During that time we took a tour in a small open slow-boat to experience the legendary floating market at dawn, as well as a late-afternoon cruise along the canals amongst the stilted houses to see local life up close. Eventually we cycled away from there via a lesser road, following canals and rivers in a Northerly direction. There are still many places in Borneo which are accessible only via waterways, as roads do either not exist in those places, or are periodically impassable. Thus, we were somewhat alarmed when our small paved road suddenly degenerated into a dirt track. The tropical climate, as usual in these parts, brings with it the heat and humidity and daily showers. And so, true to form, on our first day out we were forced to shelter from a storm before proceeding in the persistent rain. The wet road was fine until we suddenly found ourselves “up to our necks” in mean clay. Not only was it impossible to cycle in the sticky slippery mess, but the bikes soon became so clogged up that the wheels wouldn’t turn! There was no suitable camping space around, so we pushed (and dragged and slid) gradually onward, arriving at the small town of Margasari well after dark. There we camped in the local police station – I’m surprised that they were prepared to accommodate us as we must have looked worse than any self-respecting Orang-Utang. We haven’t seen any of those animals here yet, although we have now cycled through jungle and over the mountains which separate the Southern- and Eastern provinces. Again, as in Sumatra, we had more than our share of never-ending steep hills! Currently we are in the East-coast "oil-city" of Balikpapan, on the shores of a large estuary (and/or bay?). Right up to the end it was no easy task reaching this place. After a long day on the road we arrived at Pananjang on the opposite side of the estuary. The ferry crossing took more than an hour, and we were dismayed to discover that Balikpapan city was still some distance away from the ferry dock. Twenty kilometers and a few hours later we had traversed the tricky hilly road in the dark, and we’d survived the subsequent crazy traffic to arrive in the city. However, we were not yet home and dry – it was Saturday night and there was no room at the inn! After hours of searching it was close to midnight before we could eventually slump down in the crumby room of a suspect establishment. However, every dark tropical cloud has its silver lining – there was a nice TV in the room with SA Supersport channels! (We've since moved to a better hotel, where we even get toast with chocolate on it for breakfast). I’ve been catching up on SA Rugby, Cricket, and of course the FIFA World Cup - I’m not the only one. Around here the locals are crowding around big screens and TV’s at pavement cafes to watch the football (and Indonesia did not even make it to the finals!). Everybody knows about South Africa now (Afrika Seletan) – even here in Borneo. As a South African I’d always imagined that the end of the earth was probably not too far away from Borneo, but then it all depends on one’s perspective. Earlier our local river guide, after a long silence, had confided in me that he thought South Africa was a very faraway place! Now, Leana is suffering from a knee problem, probably due to all the steep hills - as soon as she's able we should move North up this East coast of Borneo towards Samarinda. Daily distances cycled since my last report from Surabaya have been:- Banjarmasin (to & from ferry) 24 km; Margasari 81 km; Kandangan 54 km; Tanjung 97 km; Muarakomam 92 km; Kuaro 57 km; and Balikpapan 141 km. Distance cycled so far this year is 5 827 km, and total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town at the start of this journey is 58 555 km.

CULTURED IN JAVA

Indonesia is currently an Islamic country, but this was clearly not always the case. The city of Yogyakarta in central Java is probably the premier tourist destination of the Island, mainly due to the ancient cultural relics in the area. The largest Buddhist temple in the world (8th century) stands in amazingly good condition at Borobudur, about 50 km from Yogyakarta. What adds to the attraction of this region is the number of impressive volcanoes all around, including the active smoking Merapi which towers close to the city. We also stopped over to take a look at the ancient Hindu temples at Prambanan (Leana went to the temples on her own as there is a fairly stiff entry fee for foreigners at these sights, and besides I could feel a bout of "Temple-Fatique" coming on - reminiscent of Egypt!). Otherwise Leana and I seem to be getting back into our routine. We've become re-acclimatised to the tropical conditions, and Leana's arm seems to be more-or-less OK. As I've mentioned before, the traffic on Java Island is very hectic, and I won't be at all sorry to leave that lot behind. The night before last, after a rather long day on the road, we arrived at the outskirts of the capital of East Java (Surabaya)at dusk. Finding our way to the "cheap-room" area in the city centre took all our patience and a lot of luck. We had a rest day in Surabaya yesterday, but last night our nerves were rattled again by a massive explosion close by (a gas storage warehouse just down the road blew up). Now we're literally waiting for our ship to come in - this afternoon we board a ferry, and hopefully we'll arrive at Banjarmasin (Kalimantan, Indonesian Borneo) some time tomorrow. Thanks to Leana for the ferry ticket. Distances cycled since my last report from Pangandaran have been:- Cilacap 93 km; Kebumen 92 km; Borobudur 87 km; Prambanan 71 km; Solo 51 km; Caruban 121 km; and Surabaya 159 km. Total distance cycled since leaving Cape Town on this journey has been 58 009 km.

BACK IN THE SADDLE

It took 2 days from Cape Town back to Bandung for Leana and me to resume our interrupted journey, and it took another 2 days before we were out of Bandung. We’d only taken the bikes with us, so I was a bit concerned about the rest of our gear which we’d left behind (stacked at the end of a passage in the hotel to where we would return). There was, however, no need for concern. Even though we were a week overdue our things were still neatly in place - exactly as we’d left them. Before we left the city we also paid a visit to a good bike shop where we both needed some last-minute work done to our bikes - see photo (amazing how big brand components such as Shimano can cost a fraction of the SA price elsewhere?!). More than a month of the leisurely gluttonous life in Cape Town had taken its toll. From the moment I heaved my fattened and softened backside out into the tropical sunshine I knew there was trouble, and the heavy pm showers since then have further helped to bring us back to earth. Just to rub it in, our budget accommodation on the first night turned out to be a brothel (not unusual), so we had the privilege of being kept awake by the mosque on the one side, and by the sounds of the “working ladies” on the other. For the past couple of days we’ve been cycling on small roads in an Easterly direction along the scenic South coast of Java. The other night we were relaxing in our simple room in the tiny beach resort of Cipatujah, when the walls and floor started moving around (also not unusual in this area). According to reports there was a 5.4 earthquake not far out to sea – fortunately no major damage or injury. Regarding our stay in Cape Town:- Thanks to everyone who had a part in fattening me up! It was good to see friends and family again – apologies to those I didn’t get around to. Thanks to CMC for the free labour on my bike, and thanks to my sister Olga for funding the rest of “Old Saartjie’s” needs (parts). Thanks to Dave for lending me a motorbike, and for notifying Tabletalk about the “aliens in town” (see photo of article). Thanks to West Coast AC for inviting me to give a presentation on club night, and thanks to all those individuals who gave donations (I bought a much-needed camera out of that money – now christened the “WC-Eye”). And of course, thanks to Leana for many things including the rather expensive airline ticket. Distances cycled since Bandung have been:- Cicalengka 46 km; Tasikmalaya 83 km; Tasik city 16 km; Cipatujah 75 km; Batukaras 77 km; and Pangandaran 36 km. Total distance cycled is 57 335 km.

A BREAK AFTER A BREAK

Leana broke her arm, so we've flown back to Cape Town for a break while she recovers (that's the basic info - for those who only look at the pictures). After leaving Jakarta we cycled South and spent a day in Bogor ("Rain Town") where we visited the amazing historical botanical gardens. Then we aimed East along the interior of Java Island, climbing a mountain pass along the slopes of two 3000m volcanic peaks. Those hillsides are a scenic tea-growing area, with continuous villages, food-stalls, and hotels (called villa's there) lining the mountain road. I was still suffering from Bronchitis, and after sheltering from a heavy afternoon shower I waited outside with the bikes while Leana went out back to inspect the rooms at one of the "villas". Then one of those crazy things happened (in a place where there is always a good chance of being knocked down in the traffic!). Returning from the rooms out back, Leana slipped on the wet concrete ramp and broke her arm - not even on the bike! For the next 2 days we struggled on (me on the bike, and Leana and her bike in mini-van taxi's), to the city of Bandung where she could consult an orthopedic surgeon. There was nothing much to be done, except to take a recovery break - and she bought me a plane ticket as well (for the benefit of those who are wondering where I suddenly got so much money!). Thirty-five hours after leaving our room in Bandung, we were home in Cape Town (17 hours in the air). Our bikes are just about our only luggage (for a decent overhaul at CMC). The 8th was my birthday, and I paid a surprise visit to my mother on that day (my mother is 86 with a weak heart, so it was almost a funeral as well as a birthday!). In the next 3 weeks I hope to visit my sister Olga in Sedgefield, as well as my friends around Cape Town. As usual I'm short of money, and as usual my bicycle is my means of transport (so if you live more than 150 km away, don't expect me to reach you in one day!). Fortunately many of the countries where I've recently traveled have been quite cheap, so I'm shocked by the prices of consumables here in SA (it seems that prices have more than doubled in the 3 years I've been gone!). The bit of cycling which I've done since Jakarta is as follows:- Bogor 57 km; Cipanas 41 km; Cianjur 25 km; and Bandung 63 km. Total distance cycled so far on this journey is 57 002 km.

A TALE OF 2 CITIES

Some time around 1650 a Dutch official of the VOC in Batavia committed some sin, and as punishment he was ordered to establish a replenishment station at the Cape of Good Hope. The ships in picture are not quite the Drommedaris, Reigger, and De Goede Hoop with which Jan Van Riebeeck sailed to the present-day Cape Town (my home-town). However, the old Sunda Kelapa harbour in present-day Jakarta - once the booming centre of the spice trade - is still in operation, with rows of interesting old wooden trading ships lining the quays (of course, there is also another modern harbour). Otherwise there's not much left to see of the once prosperous Batavia, the place to which Van Riebeeck longed to return (of course there wasn't much amusement in Cape Town at that time). This historic old colonial part of Jakarta is pretty much going to the dogs, with crumbling old buildings, slummy areas, and the stinking polluted canal. Otherwise the city of Jakarta is a large, modern metropolis - the 9th largest in the world with about 17 million inhabitants. Leana and I have been here almost a week, relaxing, servicing the bicycles, repairing things, and stocking up on things which we've been unable to find elsewhere. Although the city is very spread out, there is a suburban railway station close to where we're staying, and the bus service as also quite ok. Jakarta is not quite as smooth and efficient as Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur, and certainly not as clinical as Singapore. Yesterday we celebrated our 3rd anniversary on the bicycles - 3 years on the road since leaving Tableview beach on 27 March 2007. We splashed out a bit, and celebrated by enjoying a couple of the local Bintang beers at a little place around the corner - incidently on their opening night. We'll probably move on East through Java Island tomorrow, I'm not sure by which route but there are lots of volcanoes which Leana wants to see (and I see hills again in my nightmares!). In case you didn't know, Indonesia is the world's 4th most populous country, and more than 50% of those people live on Java island. Thus far we've only cycled a short distance in Java, which has been built-up all the way with lots of traffic (especially motorbikes and mini-bus taxis). So, for the next few weeks I see myself struggling up hills, while at the same time trying to survive by dodging the traffic (I won't even mention the heat and humidity!). It may sound as though I'm complaining, but after 3 years I still wouldn't swap this lifestyle for any other! Daily distances cycled since my last report from Cilegon have been:- Tangerang 91 km; and Jakarta 31 km. Total distance cycled in the past 3 years from Cape town to Jakarta is 56 816 km.

HOW MANY HILLS ON AN ISLAND?

In a moment of madness I found myself running my fingers across the map of Sumatra in Braille-like fashion (don't worry, I've recovered from the eye infection). I was trying to decypher the hills, but the map remained flat - not so in reality! Although there were a number of comfortable cycling stretches along the coastline, through many villages, rice paddies, and coconut groves, the overwhelming impression is one of many steep hills. It seems to me that the National Parks with their lush indigenous rain-forests exist simply because those slopes are too steep to accommodate the population or to allow for agriculture. Probably the toughest day which Leana and I have had so far was through such a park, and for the first time on this journey I pushed my bike on a paved road. Dragging the stubborn and heavily-laden "Saartjie" up that hill by her ears was no fun at all, and it prompted me to successfully make the extra effort to subsequently stay on the bike. From Benkunat village on the West coast we crossed the back-bone of the island again (another National Park!), where we found that the downhill section had been partially obliterated by a landslide. There were a number of exciting moments slipping through the clay in the rain, and by the time we were off the mountain our bikes must have looked like two moving ant-hills (fortunately there was a hosepipe at our overnight accommodation). Once or twice we camped in what we thought were discreet spots, but the villagers have an uncanny ability to sniff out tourists - making us the "attraction of the week" (particularly if your camp is practically on top of their water supply - which we took to be an abandoned well). We spent a couple of luxury nights in a "fancy" hotel in Bandarlampung where Leana extended her visa. Today we left Sumatra and crossed the Sunda Strait on a large ferry which also carries cars, busses and trucks. During the voyage we had views of the infamous Krakatao, still grumbling and steaming in the distance. Now we're in the town of Cilegon on Java Island (about 15 k's from the ferry port at Merak), and I'm sipping "mokka coffee" on my first day in Java. Daily distances cycled since Benkulu have been:- Seluma 61 km; Manna 83 km; Bintuhan 76 km; Pugung Tampak 85 km; Krui 37 km; Benkunat 87 km; Kotaagung 70 km; Pringsewu 60 km; Bandarlampung 38 km; Kalianda 63 km; and Cilegon 46 km. Total distance so far on this trip is 56 694 km.

DISASTER ZONE

From the higland town of Bukittinggi it was a steep downhill run to Padang city, on the West coast of Sumatra. Our route took us past volcanic peaks and lush forest, and in the traffic somehow Leana and I managed to lose each other. Once in Padang I was amazed at the devastation caused by the September earthquake, and many buildings (especially in the quaint old riverside district) had been damaged or destroyed. As a result of the earthquake there were a limited number of budget hotels still operating, and Leana and I happened to meet up again at one of these. The road South from Padang was a scenic ride along the coast at first, but the trip soon turned into a never-ending steep roller-coaster struggle through the oil palm plantations. (When first cycling amongst the oil palms about a year ago in Thailand we thought it to be a nice ride, but since then I've certainly had my fill of that "roadside wallpaper". Incidently, palm oil is not only used in the manufacture of soap and cosmetics, but is also often an ingredient in foods such as biscuits, noodles, and even ice-cream). Trucks carting the clusters of palm kernels to processing plants also damage the road - of course most of the road damage is in the dips at the bottom of the hills, preventing cyclists from building up any sort of momentum with which to tackle the uphill. The disastrous 2004 tsunami was caused by an earthquake off the coast of Sumatra, and low-lying coastal towns have signs indicating evacuation routes in the event of a recurrence (photo). Another disaster during this time was the fact that I picked up a bug which caused a bad case of conjunctivitis in both my eyes. However, the "show" had to go on as we'd run out of cash and the couple of ATM's along the way were always off-line. I discovered that it is not so easy to cycle in traffic on bad roads with eyelids glued together and covered by sweat-streaked sunglasses (I would have lost Leana numerous times if she hadn't literally jumped into the road in front of me where she'd been waiting for the "invalid" to catch up). Fortunately the only mishap after 4 days of "blind cycling" was a flat tyre caused by one of the many potholes I'd been happily flying through. In Benkulu, we found a very nice affordable ground floor room where, after another 4 days, I've almost recovered from the eye ailment. At the interesting local market I've also managed to have my shoes repaired, camping chair sewn up, and tent zip replaced. I've also cleaned and serviced the bicycles (the "ass-washer" in the open-plan bathroom is very effective for spraying the bike down - although the hotel management would certainly view such activity as a disaster). We haven't spotted any other foreigners in Bengkulu, so our hotel probably doesn't know what to make of these 2 crazy cyclists who string washing lines outside the room door, and who literally "clean up" the breakfast buffet (included in the room price!). And then, 2 nights ago, the big thing happened - a 6.5 earthquake 160 km out to sea - and we didn't even know about it until the following morning (fortunately for the locals, no damage or injury). So, tomorrow we'll move on from Bengkulu, and perhaps unfortunately I'll be able to see the oil palms and the continuation of the steep hills and broken road. Daily distances cycled since Bukittinggi were:- Padang 99 km; Painan 95 km; Balai Selasa 77 km; Tapan 65 km; Pasar Bantal 125 km; Ipuh 53 km; Ketahun 82 km; and Bengkulu 91 km. Total distance cycled on this journey so far is 55 988 km.