MALAYSIA REVISITED

As you would have seen from my previous post, I had comfortably made it on 18 Nmovember 2017 from Thailand into Malaysia, the day before my Thai visa expired. I was done with all the immigration formalities by mid-day, so I didn't bother hanging around there. A huge culture difference here is that Malaysia is a Moslem country (Thai is Buddhist), and early AM in my tent at the Watt in Thai, I could hear the Imam from the Mosque across the border calling the faithful to prayer.

From the border town of Padang Besar (2 towns with the same name on either side of the border line), I carried on South into Malaysia. The first 2 nights I camped at roadside restaurants, one closed for the night, and the other closed down. These places are handy for camping as there is water for washing and cooking, as well as a toilet somewhere close by. The people were also very friendly, and even offered me food (although I had my own). Within 3 days I was at Butterworth city, which is across the channel from Penang Island. I wanted to go to the Thai Consulate in Georgetown on Penang to apply for a new Thai visa.

I did not want to cross to Penang that night, because I still had some way to go on the island to the place where I intended to camp. So I found an R&R at the Butterworth higway toll gate, conveniently right at the beach. (These "Rest and Recovery" areas came in handy when I was on highways all around Malaysia - bicycles are allowed on most of the highways, just follow the motorcyle channels around toll gates, etc.). There are shops, food courts, toilets and showers, and security at the R&R.

While I was looking around the R&R I came across another scruffy-looking cyclist sitting at one of the beach-side gazebos, enjoying an early dinner. Constantin (yes, also from Russia) is a previous "Rock Star" - in his own words. He suffered a serious stroke, willed himself to recovery, and has spent the past 4 years cycling from Moscow to SE Asia. A couple of hours later, after I had set up camp and he had packed his bike, he was on his way again. He was going to cycle through the night to Alor Setar city, about 100 km. Some cyclists prefer to cycle at night in order to avoid the heat and the traffic (I avoid cycling at night after the accident I had Sept 2016).

The following morning I took the ferry from mainland Butterworth to Georgetown on Penang island. There are 2 highway bridges to the island, but even the closest bridge is a long way around. The ferry is convenient, takes 20 minutes, is very cheap (and free return). After the ferry it was about 30 km around to Batu Ferringhi, on the North side of the island where I had camped 8 years ago. On arrival I was very pleased to discover that the old fishing platform high above the rocks was still there, and I set up camp.

On my previous stay there I had injured myself by falling through the rotting wooden walkway. Now that wood had been removed, so entry to the platform involved balancing on a concrete beam (tricky at night when you need to go out for a pee!). The municipal office 20 m away was now open, with toilets and showers. The road workers there were done by mid-day and spent the rest of the time fishing around my camp (so I had "security" because I was mostly away during the day).

Even at night I was not alone at my high camp. Prawn fisherman Zac had to wait until the tide was low enough for him to wade amongst the far rocks and cast his net. In the few days I spent camping there, Zac's starting time ranged from about 9PM to 2AM. A few hours chest-deep in the water for a Kg of prawn, and the rest of the day sleeping in his car (with his wife Anna).

My main reason for coming to Penang had been to obtain a new Thailand visa. My sister Olga as usual offered to fund the cost, which turned out to be more than what I had anticipated. Since previously I now had to have an air ticket out of Thailand (pay agent for dummy ticket). This meant a few times from my camp to Georgetown and back. Luckily I had a good free place to stay.

Probably the mainstay of agriculture in Malaysia is Palm Oil (I may be wrong, because there is also rice and fish and PETRONAS). This product is used instead of dairy and other fats in many foods. I took this pic just to show what a palm oil cluster looks like. At times, especially in the interior of the country, the road can become rather tedious because your view is limited to the oil palm groves lining the road for miles and miles and .....

I had not been in Malaysia on the bike for any extent of time for 8 years. At that time I often stayed in rooms or hostels (with Leana). Nowadays I seek free camping and I did not know about that thing in this country (No Watts like in Thailand). But, thankfully, I did find it easy to camp in Malaysia. In this tropical region I always seek to camp under cover, with toilet and water close by (cook, drink, wash). I also prefer to camp close to people, for security and also all the reasons I just mentioned. And so I did find good camping, mostly at highway R&R, petrol stations, and the larger mosques. Other places I sometimes camped was at cemeteries, once at a Sikh crematorium, and again at small restaurants which had closed for the night (close to petrol stations, or bus station - for water and toilet).

In the majority of Thailand it is now the DRY season (at least they have 2 seasons). It seems that in the South of Thailand and Malaysia they have not yet received the news about this being the DRY season. So I have had a lot of rain here in Malaysia, but it is not really cold. An exception was just after I had passed Kuala Lumpur going East up the big hills to Genting Highlands. I was exhausted, soaking wet from sweat, and there was a breeze. Not surprisingly, I have bacome acclimatized to the Thai conditions, so when the "mercury" drops to the low 20's C then I feel cold.

Distances cycled since crossing the border from Thailand into Malaysia have been:- Kangar (Malaysia) 69 km; Guar Chempesak 68 km; Butterworth 74 km; Batu Ferringhi (Penang Island) 28 km; NW Penang 16 km; Tonjung Tolong 35 km; Georgetown 57 km; Visa Org. 51 km; Gurney 35 km; Bagan Ayam 30 km; Simphan Ampat 25 km; Simpang Lima 41 km; Simpang 48 km; Pantai Remis 64 km; Lekir 51 km; Teluk Intam Rd 48 km; Sekinchan (West Coast) 64 km; Kundang (Kuala Lumpur) 72 km; Genting 59 km; Temerloh 102 km; Gambang 72 km; Kuantan (East Coast) 69 km; Sungai Ular 47 km; Paka 79 km; Kampung Kelulut 76 km; Sungai Tong 71 km; Pasir Puteh 89 km; and Rantau Panjang (Malaysia side of border) 84 km. Total cycled thus far is 150 438 km.

Exactly one month (on 18 December2017) after entering Malaysia, I exited. This is a border which I had not crossed previously, from Rantau Panjang (Malaysia) to Sungai Kolok (Thailand). This is in the NE of Malaysia, and I had entered into Malaysia at Pedang Besar in the NW. - - - - - OH! The picture above you ask? Yes, rubber trees. Out of season the cups are turned down, and later there will be a new shaving off the bark and the cups will face up.

ISAN TO MALAYSIA VISA RUN

So it was time for me to get on my bike and hit the road again. For new Thai visas I have been mostly going to nearby Laos, where the visa is minimal hassle and actually cheaper than in other neighbouring countries.

You may wonder why I keep coming back to Thailand - well, obviouly there is Pannee, who attracts me back here after every bike stint. There are also other reasons to come back to Thailand, it is relatively cheap, easy to camp for free, good roads for biking, interesting, beautiful, and no remarkably big hills.

So I said goodbye to Pannee and the farm, and I was on the road again. It was 18 October 2017 and I had exactly one month to reach the Malaysian border about 2000 km to the SW. From NE Thailand I first had to head West, skirting to the North of Bangkok. Then I had to turn South down the "Long Leg" of Thailand towards Malaysia.

As usual, in Thailand I camped at the Buddhist temples (Watts). There are many of these temples, so about an hour before sunset I start looking out for a suitable Watt (that gives me time to ask permission, set up camp, wash, and dress - before "mosquito time" at dusk). Often it is still hot and humid at that time, so I would apply repellant cream instead of dressing up too much for the mozzies.

The monks have only one official meal per day, breakfast. People from the community bring the food for the monks. Once the monks are done eating, the rest of the people can eat and they sometimes invite me to join them. Sometimes the monks themselves bring me food as in the 2 pics above (the flies on the first plate were added later - mozzies at night and flies at daytime).

Leftovers (mainly rice) is given to the variety of animals usually present at a Watt (a certain travelling cyclist has also walked off with a bag or 2 of leftovers on occasion).

At a big river close to Bang Lem town (NW of Bangkok) I saw a style of fishing which I had not seen before. Men were patiently sitting on the bridge railing, not with fishing rods, but with a type of "spear gun" (or cross bow?). They would shoot a big fish close to the surface and hold it in position while their mates let down a grapple hook on a rope with which they raise the fish up to the bridge. Apparently the restaurants pay handsomely for these fish. (My shoe is in the pic to give idea of scale).

At the holiday beach town of Cha-Am I took a break for a couple of days. There are many hotels and guest houses here, but I found a good camp site at the Watt right beside their large fish pond.

My time at Cha-Am co-incided with a major festival (Festival of Lights?). Candle lanterns were flown out over the ocean from the beach at night, and thousands of candle-lit flower decorations were floated out on the pond at the Watt (this pic of what it looked like on the pond the following morning).

Sometimes I run low on funds, and then any type of food will make my mouth water. On one of those days there were many roadside stalls selling this Nonu fruit, and it looked so appealing! So I stopped at a stall and took some pics of the fruit. The lady in picture then gave me some fruit for free, as well as a bag of steamed corn-on-the-cobb. Just down the road I found some shady picnic chairs at a police station, and I had a wonderful unexpected lunch. I used the toilet inside, and also filled up on cold water, and the police came out and gave me a bottle of cold orange juice!

Quite a few times (and mostly in Thailand) I have come across accidents where large trucks have left the road - on the side where I ride! Luckily I am still unscathed, but a few years ago 2 British cyclists died when they were hit by a pickup truck which left the road. I did however have plenty of bike troubles, involving all coggs and chains etc. - and a number of evenings were spent "beating out the flames" so that I could move on again in the morning. I also had big problems with wheel bearings, caused by ageing worn wheel hubs. I replaced bearings on both wheels, and on one occasion I had to stay over at a temple for a day to replace the complete front wheel hub (luckily I had a used spare). Fortunately I was camped off to one side and did not interfere with the daily activities. Also, it was pouring with rain, so not a bad day to be under cover and do some bike repairs.

I met these 2 strapping Russian cyclists along the road in the South of Thailand. They are from an East Siberian city close to Mongolia. In their 1-month holiday they were travelling light and cycling from Hanoi to Singapore. I'm surprised that they even spotted me at the little shop where I was taking a break.

On the afternoon of 17 November I arrived at the border town of Pedang Besar, and camped at one of 3 temples in this small town. The following morning at a money changer in the town I exchanged Thai Baht for Malaysian Ringit. Then I checked out of Thailand and crossed into Malaysia 1 month and almost 2000 km after leaving the farm in Isan. (My Thai visa expired the following day).

Daily distances which I have cycled on this (long)leg have been:- Ban TaLad 66 km; Huaitun Tan 72 km; Tha Jum 75 km; Ban Anotai 86 km; Non Takat Kwaat 56 km; Non Phi Junction 77 km; Sikhio 78 km; Muak Lek 72 km; Phachi 71 km; Bang Pa-in 79 km; Bang Len 77 km; Potharam 83 km; Phetchaburi 91 km; Cha-Am 45 km; Pranburi 62 km; Prachuap Khiri Khan 77 km; Ban Sam Khum 78 km; Road Split Watt 64 km; Chumphon Ban 75 km; Lamae 81 km; Surat Thani 94 km; Wiang Sa 85 km; Nakhon Si Tammarat 82 km; Phattalung 80 km; Hat Yai 90 km; and Pedang Besar (Malaysia border) 69 km. Total distance so far is 148 814 km.

RELAX - BLOG UPDATE IN DUE COURSE

Yeah, Yes, Ja, OK. I will get around to the update. For the time being I am struggling to figure out how to repair my old horse, Saartjie. Pretty much everything is now broken or worn very close to broken. I intend to be on the road for a while still, so it will be a challenge to get the bike in shape. Fortunately (for those who may be concerned), my physical health is good. Unfortunately there were things which I had to do, and after almost 2 years I left Pannee on Xmas day (so emotionally I may be a bit vulnerable right now).

It took me some time on my cranky old heavily loaded bike, but I made it to Leana's apartment in Pattaya. She is away, but has graciously offered for me to stay here a while. The first rest I've had in a long time and fortunately a place for me to try and sort bike problems (and YES, update this blog). Thanks again to my sister Olga for her continued financial (and moral) support.

THAI AND MALAYSIA UPDATE SOON

OK, me and my bike (Old Saartjie) have somehow kept it together. Through Thailand and around Malaysia. Somehow made it back to the farm in Isan (Thailand) for Xmas. My intention is to update this blog soon. Wishing you all a HAPPY 2018.

ISAN FARM NE THAILAND

It should be no surprise to anybody (especially no surprise to me) that I am on my way again. In the past year and a half (since I had met Pannee here in Thailand) I have had to leave the country every 2 months to get a new Thai visa in a neighbouring country. Pannee thinks I am going on a "solo holiday", but I do go on excusions of 1 to 2 months at a time (see previous posts). Then I am happy to return to what has become my "home" here in Isan (general name for NE Thailand). Now I am off via cental and southern Thailand towards Malaysia (quite a long way, especially with a sort-of improvised bicycle).

During this time that I have been on the farm I have not done much. Mostly I just relaxed after a bike trip, but I did do a few things. I put in a kitchen sink, washbasin in bathromm, did some plumbing adjustments, and painted inside and out (see pics of before and after at back of house). Siblings and parents all have their own house here on the farm, even if some of them don't live here anymore. These pics are of Pannee's house.

I have put some pics of "before" and "after" on this post. There are only 2 seasons in the region, the DRY season and the RAINY season. This is the farm dam early this year in the dry season, and how it looks now towards the end of the rainy season. Ban Trakan village is about 1 km away, and beyond that is a big river where I have also done some fishing. The rice is growing well, and should be harvested within the next month. And next month, especially in December and January, the tourists will be flocking in to Bangkok again, and going to all the many other places where tourists flock around Thailand.

This is another before and after comparison. Pannee has 2 sons. Mark goes to his high school by motorbike and does pretty much his own thing. Patrick is 7 years old, and follows me around and tries to do whatever I do. His primary school is outside of the village, and very conveniently it is right next door to the farm. He has a ravenous appetite which seems to have led to a noticeable growth in his size since I first met him.

Initially I was not particularly impressed by Thai food, but it has grown on me. STICKY RICE is a staple here in Isan (and also in close neighbouring Laos). Another favourite here is PAPAYA SALAD, a very spicy concoction based on shavings of green papaya (I like eating it until my eyes start watering and my nose runs). The fruit in pic is referred to locally as NOYNA, has a lifespan of about 1 week on the tree, and is quite similar to another fruit which is generally known as "soursop". They also grow banana, mango, and cassava here on the farm.

Pannee's Mama and Papa are becoming old (the way all of us will become if we can keep on living). Papa has packed up the shop, and now he is relaxing even more, if that is possible. They live in the oldest "house" on the property, which is an ancient stilted wooden shack. Mama still prepares meals in the traditional way, mostly on a charcoal fire, and probably in the way she has done it all her life.

And then there is the farm, which I have come to consider as "home". They farm mainly with rice around here, as any Thai person will become rather confused if they do not have a rice-based meal 3 times per day. There are some farm animals around here. There are pigs, ducks, cows, chickens, and 3 dogs, (I call the one in the pic Brakenjan but apparently his real name is Phon).

Here on the farm the only vehicles are farming implements (big and small tractor), and old motorbike with cargo sidecar, small motorbikes, and bicycles. With the motorbike to the bus stop is 10 km of rolling gravel country lane. From there one can take a rickety bus to Ubon Ratchathani city (40 km), or a pickup truck "bus" the other way to Amphoe Trakan town (20 km). However, I prefer to cycle to town for grocery shopping.

As I have already said, I don't do much around here on the farm. I spend quite a bit of time on my computer (which I normally don't carry with me on the bike - I carry more than enough weight). We get wi-fi from Pannee's sister's house next door. I have been suffering from an ear infection for some time now, so I make myself look silly by pulling a buff over my head when I sleep.

Pannee also has to leave the farm by the end of this month, returning to her job in Bangkok. Tomorrow I hit the road with mixed feelings, unsure when/if I will be back again.

I have cycled a bit more around here in Isan, to town with bags on for shopping and so forth. Total distance cycled since March 2007 is 146 849 km. I am amazed that Old Saartjie (my bike) still has the legs to do this thing.