SOUTH OF THE BORDER

After my last update from Obregon, Leana and I slowly headed North through this arid region of Mexico. We turned down to the coastal resort of San Carlos, where we camped for a few days in the RV park. Our tents looked small amongst all the huge RV´s and trailers, mostly inhabited by “Snowbirds” from the USA and Canada who “fly” South for the winter.

Further along we spent some time in another RV park at the more down-scale Kino. Along the way we found ourselves somewhere in the desert by sunset, but it was easy to move away from the road and camp to the sound of jackals in the night.

We spent a day or 2 in the city of Hermosillo, where we did some laundry and I could replace my front brakes which broke on the way into town.

Further North we passed some more interesting towns such as Santa Ana and the historic Magdalena De Kino, where the remains of the renowned missionary Padre Kino are on display. We arrived at the Nogales border rather sooner than we would have preferred, as the weather was becoming colder the further North we moved. But we were there, so we crossed into the USA anyway.

As it is, some of the larger towns along the last part of our journey through Mexico were somewhat USA-like, with strips of franchise hotels and fast-food joints. Distances cycled in Mexico since CD Obregon were:- Vikam (2nd time) 53 km; San Carlos (new ground) 101 km; San Carlos mirador 23 km; Santa Eduwiges 101 km; Bahia Kino 97 km; Nuevo Kino 15 km; Miguel Aleman 54 km; Hermosillo 65 km; La Oasis 77 km; Santa Ana 101 km; Magdalena De Kino 22 km; Nogales (USA border) 97 km. The total distance cycled in Mexico is 7 081 km. Total for the entire trip is 104 626 km.

THE PENINSULA

The Baja California peninsula hangs down from the USA along the North-West coast of Mexico. In my previous report I mentioned that Leana and I had taken the ferry from Guaymas on the mainland to Santa Rosalia on the peninsula. We still had plenty of time on our Mexican visas, so we decided to avoid the cold weather to the North, and first head South on the peninsula before returning for the Northern border later. As we proceeded down Baja, we came across the wonderful Bahia Conception, with various little beaches where one can camp.

This area is very popular with visitors from North of the border who come down here with their RV's and trailers for the winter. The calm clear waters are excellent for kayaking and fishing. We camped at one of these beaches, where Canadian Gordo took me out fishing, and afterwards he and wife Gwen invited us around to savour the catch.

The peninsula seems to be mostly semi-desert, and the rocky hills are covered in cactus.

There were also some interesting towns such as Muleje and the historic Loreto, as well as the start of tourist developments such as Puerto Escondido.

One morning we met San Diego photographer Manny and his partner, and he took some rare pics of both of us together which he mailed later, thanks.

Although we were heading South, the weather gradually became colder, especially at night. Even during the day the "light travelling" Leana was sometimes wearing just about everything she had.

However, the dusty deserty breeze across the peninsula made for some spectacular sunsets, and also wonderful sunrises.

We went as far South as the city of La Paz, where we relaxed for a couple of days. Leana got me a nice sleeping bag and some warm clothes (I've been a bit ragged since that stuff was stolen in Costa Rica). Along the way we met a number of cyclists, including Canadians Patrick and Kevin, a bunch of Alaskans heading to South America, and Germans Simone and Daniel with whom we shared a camp site. Then, instead of returning North along the peninsula to the USA border and California, we took the ferry from La Paz back across to the mainland at Mochis. Unfortunately, in the 3 weeks that we were away, the temperature there had also dropped, and the wind had picked up. So, recycling takes on a new meaning as we peddal the same road as before, and during the day the freezing breeze increases about in direct proportion to our waning strenth. Now we are in Ciudad Obregon again, heading North towards the USA and Arizona. However, before we get there we will have to endure some lonely stretches of desert and cold winds.

Daily distances cycled since my previous report have been:- Muleje 65 km; Bahia Concepcion 31 km; Loreto 115 km; Puerto Escondido 33 km; CD Insurgentes 98 km; CD Constitucion 26 km; El Ciento Vientyocho 89 km; La Paz BCS 128 km; Topolobampo 23 km (including 7hr ferry); Los Mochis 28 km; Ahome 28 km; Diaz Ordaz 62 km; Navojoa 106 km; and CD Obregon 76 km. The total distance cycled in Mexico so far is 6 275 km, and the total distance which I've cycled on this trip is 103 820 km.

OUT OF THE TROPICS

Since my last update, Leana and I cycled North parallel to the Gulf of California coastline - according to the map (or the Sea of Cortez - according to my guide book). We soon crossed the Tropic of Cancer, moving out of the tropics again for the first time since Capricorn in April 2011.

The road didn't actually run along the coast, but instead we travelled slightly inland, mostly on the highway through flat agricultural land. We cycled past vast fields of maize, beans, chile, cucumber, and tomato (the Sinaloa state licence plates even carry a tomato emblem). The Sierra Madre Occidental mountains formed a constant background to the East.

There are a great number of airports in Mexico, many of them international. The strech of sky above our route is obviously an important air corridor, and at just about any time the aircraft vapour trails were visible, often a number at the same time.

As we moved further North into Sonora State, the climate became cooler and drier, and the crop fields disappeared. Cowboys were grazing their cattle at the roadside, and progressively the landscape became more desert-like with large cactus along the way.

The road was often rather busy, particularly closer to the Xmas holidays when Mexicans from USA travel down to spend this time with their relatives. There are also lots of trucks on the highway, meaning lots of punctures from truck-tyre steel belt debris.

Oh yes, a belated Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to everyone who still reads this blog. Leana and I spent Xmas in the interesting if somewhat dilapidated port town of Guaymas, waiting for a ferry boat. We found a suitably dilapidated cheap room in a run-down local guest house, where many of the guests seemed to be permanent residents.

Last night we eventually boarded the ferry to Baja California state, and we landed on the peninsula early this morning. We are spending the day in the historic mining town of Santa Rosalia, before we move on tomorrow to explore this North-Western part of Mexico. During the night the ferry took us across the Sea of Cortez (or according to my map, the Gulf of California).

Daily distances cycled since my last update from Mazatlan are:- La Cruz de Elota 110 km; Obispo 58 km; Culiacan 85 km; Los Sanches 75 km; Guasave 80 km; Los Mochis 67 km, Diaz Ordaz 64 km; Navojoa 113 km; CD Obregon 70 km; Vikram 53 km; Guaymas 77 km; and to/from ferry Santa Rosalia 7 km. The distance cycled so far in Mexico is 5 367 km, and the total distance cycled so far on this trip is 102 912 km.

COASTING NORTHWARDS - SOLO

After Leana left on her vacation to South Africa, I got back on the bike and headed out from Acapulco in a North-Westerly direction along the Pacific coast of Mexico. I was also coasting in another way, taking it easy so that I wasn't too far ahead of Leana when she returned. I wasn't feeling well, and after about the second day I came down with a debilitating snotty cold (perhaps I picked up the bug on the crowded subway in the city - I subsequently learned that Leana was also very ill during much of her holiday).

On my own I had to rely on informal camping, so I had to trundle on every day until I found a nice spot on the beach at Calete De Campos village where I rested for a few days. I also had some expense regarding bicycle spares.

I needed a new rear tyre, bought one in a pueblo, and 25 km later it blew. I sewed it up with fishing line, which gave it a few more days of life. At a military check point I was scratching in the front bag for my passport, which dislodged my cycle computer. Unaware of the problem I took off, the computer fell to the ground, and my heavy back wheel crushed the poor instrument which I had been staring at for the past 4 years. Thanks again to my sister Olga (my regular sponsor) for sending me money with which I could replace the computer and buy a half-decent tyre. There are some spectacular sections of coastline in this region, deserted and often very mountainous, but beautiful if you have the energy to appreciate it.

One morning after camping on the beach I noticed that the huge turtles had landed during the night, one of them digging a big egg-nest less than 20 metres from my tent (I was disappointed that I had not seen the event - all I could do was take a pic of nest and tracks). At Colima state I turned inland, keen to see what it was like in the highlands (was I crazy, looking for more mountains?). However, it was quite interesting, the climate was drier and cooler (actually quite chilly in the night).

I camped at some interesting places, police parking areas, city sidewalks, toll-gates, and of course many gas stations (in Mexico there is only one company, Pemex). When it became absolutely necessary to do laundry, I washed my clothes in public toilets, in the ocean, and in the large heavy copper-based cooking pot which my mother gave me years ago (of course, I rinse the pot before again using it for cooking). At one gas station I awoke at midnight to find that my camp site was in the middle of a large gathering of people - the local Friday night illegal street racing. My tent was about at the finish line, and there were revving engines, screeching tyres, and excited (drunken) crowds keeping me up almost till dawn. Later, I spent the night camping in the central plaza of a small agricultural village (called a Ranchito). It was a Sunday night, when the whole village flocks to the plaza, and I had a carnival going on around me till the early hours (loud music, kids playing tag around my tent, taco stands, and so forth). As usual I was chased away from one or two places in the night when the "real manager" arrives with a dented ego because I didn't ask his permission to camp there. However, there are many kind people in Mexico, and often motorists would give me a cooldrink along the road, and when I'm camping people have given me food (I must look really down-and-out!). In the interior, just South of the country´s 2nd city Guadalajara, lies the largest lake in Mexico, Lagunas Chapala, and I cycled via that way to take a look.

Also not far from Guadalajara I passed the famous town of Tequila, with the hills covered in the grey-green agave plants from which the drink is distilled. There are many vulcanos in Mexico, and on my inland route I cycled past Vulcan Colima, Vulcan Tepic, and many more.

Back at the coast I made a turn in the laid-back little port of San Blas (where the sand flies and mozzies eat you alive). There are many wetlands North of there on the way to Mazatlan, where I could pretend to be a photographer and take pictures of the birds.

There are many ugly black vultures in South- and Central America, but the "pretty" turkey vulture (shame) is less common (living proof that you are what you eat). Now I'm in the pleasant coastal city of Mazatlan, staying in a room.

Yes, I said "a room", which means that Leana is back from her holiday and has joined me here in Mazatlan. From here we will carry on cycling Northwards together again. She also brought some spare parts for the bikes which we have been unable to find locally (and a set of used tyres for me - thanks to her cousin Ansie). The bikes have been cleaned, today I will be doing the necessary work on them, and tomorrow the wheels will be turning again. Daily distances which I've cycled since leaving Acapulco have been:- Pie De La Questa 18 km; Tecpan 96 km; Papanoa 67; Los Achotes 65 km; La Union 69 km; La Mira 68 km; Pena 40 km; Calete De Campos 24 km; Tuzupan 61 km; Maruata 49 km; La Placita 52 km, Tecoman 81 km; Colima 54 km; Tonila 35 km; CD Guzman 41 km; Acatlan 95 km; Chapala 58 km; Guadalajara 76 km; Magdalena 58 km; Jala 66 km; Tepic 71 km; San Blas 79 km; Ruiz 83 km; Palmilla 109 km; Rosario 59 km; El Castillo 66 km; and Mazatlan 30 km. The total distance which I've cycled in Mexico so far is 4 508 km, and the total distance cycled on this journey is 102 053 km.

JEWEL OF THE EMPIRE

Tomorrow morning Leana, my cycling partner, leaves on a vacation to visit her family in South Africa. She flies off from Mexico city, so we left our bikes and stuff at the Pacific coast in Acapulco and took the bus over the mountains to the centre. She had to leave last week already, but her flight was via the USA and due to the storm her original flights were cancelled. Mexico city is huge (population 20 million), and is also interesting in various ways. At the height of the colonial era, Mexico City was seen as the “Jewel of the Spanish Empire”.

In keeping with this status, the largest cathedral in Latin America (1573) stands in the city centre, facing the expanse of the Plaza De La Constitucion (the 3rd largest city square, after Tienamen Square in Beijing and Red Square in Moscow). Facing the square (commonly known as the Zocalo) on the other sides are more colonial buildings such the the Palacio Nacional. There seems to be a constant hum-drum and commotion around the large attractive historic centre. There are scores of beautiful historic buildings and monuments in the area, also the Palacio De Bellas Artes and the Monumenta A La Revolucion.

However, there is also a modern aspect to Mexico City, and historic architecture is often reflected off modern glass structures.

Whenever possible I like to check out the metro rail systems in large cities, and this city has a modern underground rail (also partly above ground, and sometimes overhead) with about 10 main lines criss-crossing the city. During our time in the city we went all over the show on the metro, travelling on about half of those Metro lines. Quite incredibly, one can travel the whole day on one ticket, changing lines at junction stations, as long as you don't exit a station (then you have to buy another 3 Peso ticket (1 US dollar is 13 Pesos).

When we arrived in Mexico city we booked into a nice "fairly economic" hotel (thanks to Leana), with a room overlooking the happenings on Calle 5 De Mayo. We quickly took cameras and started roaming the streets amongst the festive weekend crowds. Before long one of the street clowns caught sight of Leana, and fooled around with her a bit, much to the amusement of the locals.

When Leana's flight was cancelled we spent the extra time by taking a trip down to the city of Veracruz, on the Carribean coast. Veracruz was the first colonial town established by the Spanish in Mexico. It is a sizeable port, with a fort at the far side of the harbour which history has shown to be quite ineffective. The place also has some nice colonial buildings in the historic part of town, where we stayed.

Along the way our bus took us past the highest peak in Mexico, the vulcan Pico De Orizaba at 5 636m. So, when Leana leaves I will make my way back to my bike and things in Acapulco, and carry on alone from there. I wish her a happy holiday.