HALFWAY THROUGH HONDURAS

Since my last report from Nicaragua, Leana and I had a big climb up to the border of Honduras. These 2 countries are part of a 4-country open border agreement, but it is no surprise that you still have to pay a number of dollars for exit and entry into each of these countries. We descended down from the border to the town of Danli, where we were pleased to discover that costs are not much different to those in our previous country (Nicaragua). Honduras is a mountainous country, so we again climbed and eventually descended into the bowl, the capital, Tegucigalpa (try saying that after a few beers!). In the capital I also cleaned up my image by shaving my face for the first time in 9 months (the landlady of the dump where we were staying didn't recognise me the following morning, and wanted to throw me out!). From there we picked an unusual route through the mountains Northwards towards the Carribean coast. The road took us past some rather interesting places. Firstly we made a deviation to the touristy colonial mountain village of Valle De Angeles. Further on we got to big dusty local towns such as Juticalpa. Later, after the end of the paved road, we went through isolated mountain villages like Santa Maria De Madeira, where the children ran away from us as we approached. The road started out as an asphalt paved road, then it turned into a reasoable gravel road, but unfortunately at times we were climbing and descending treacherous eroded tracks (other vehicles who had to do this gauntlet were no faster than what we were at the rough spots). Eventually, as we got closer to the Carribean coast at Bonito Oriental, the pavement returned. We also had some unfortunate clay to contend with, the worst since Borneo (the clay jams the bike to a halt, so you push and clear the blockage by hand every few metres). We stayed over at Saba town (a place where there is an armed guard at every isle in the supermarket). At the coastal town of La Ceiba be took a break, and then took the ferry (fancy big cat "Galaxy Wave") to the biggest of the Bay Islands, Roatan. This island was a haven for pirates over hundreds of years - for some time there were more than 5000 pirates on this island. Now we are staying in a nice room at West End village. I have enjoyed snorkeling in Half Moon Bay about 200m from the room, as well as in neighbouring West Bay (both fantasic, like a huge aquarium, with coral reefs, crystal clear water, and many colourful fish - and even some quite big fish). From here we will obviously return to the mainland, and then carry on towards the ruins of Copan. Distances cycled since my last report have been:- Danli (Honduras) 57 km; Zamorano 66 km; Tegucigalpa 37 km; Valle De Angeles 31 km; Guaimaca 73 km; Juticalpa 86 km; La Paz De San Francisco 44 km; San Esteban 64 km; Benito Oriental 72 km; Saba 85 km; La Ceiba 83 km; and (Roatan Island) West End 27 km (plus 1 and a half hour ferry). The total distance cycled so far in Honduras is 701 km, and the total distance cycled on this trip is 96 187 km. Thanks again to Leana and my sister Olga for financial support.