RECOVER AND REBUILD

No, don't panic! I have not been involved in another accident. The title of this post refers to some sort of financial recovery and a mission to get back on the road again. I arrived back hare in South Africa in January, just about penniless and without a bike and serviceable touring equipment. Fortunately I was able to stay at my sisters place in Sedgefield, where I have been living a type of beach-bum existence for a couple of months.

I was (and I still am) trying to raise some sponsorship during this time that I have been back in SA, but to no avail. However, I did fortunately get involved with an Expedition Touring company. I have recently returned from my first tour, which was a 2-week tour of the Western Cape in South Africa. I was the vehicle driver, bike guy, and also filled in wherever else I was needed in this hectic environment. The Guests were all Germans (fortunately my 2 colleagues are guides who are fluent in German).

The tour involved hiking, as well as bike rides (Bainskloof pass, Chapmans Peak, etc). The pictures here in this post were taken in the Cederberg, and on Lions Head at sunrise.

Soon I will be on my next expedition tour, primarily a bicycle tour from Victoria Falls to Cape Town. (Will let you know in about a month's time how that one went).

So now, for the moment, I am back relaxing in Sedgefield. I have found a good bicycle, have made an offer, and hope to get my grubby paws on that one. The bike needs some parts and TLC, but I look forward to taking the necessary care as and when I can afford it. I still need a lot of new equipment, starting with bike racks and panniers. There is some way to go before I am free on the road again.

THE BEACH BUM

[NOTE:- I add something to this post every now and then, so please scroll down all the way to the end of this post - and there may be a surprise addition.]

OK, I'm not quite a "Beach Bum" yet, but perhaps not too far off. I have migrated along the coast East from Cape Town (South Africa). I am staying with my sister Olga, and her 3 pampered dogs, in Sedgefield town.

For the last few months on the road I'd been without an operational phone (used for GPS, Wi-Fi, and pics), but I now have the use of a fancy hand-set. Also, thanks to friends Martie & Piet, I have the use of a bicycle to get around, and for a bit of cycle training. I am trying to start a running programme, but after 12 years of hardly even walking, my body has gone into shock in response to this "new" activity.

In addition I am still acclimatising to the weather, which is somewhat cooler than what I have become accustomed to in the past couple of years.

So, for now, I am trying (hoping!) to find sponsorship for a new touring bike, equipment such as racks and panniers, and funds with which to sustain myself on the road. My existing bike and equipment was all in such an advanced state of wear, that I left it behind when I flew out of Malaysia in January.

[ADDITION 1 April] (No, this is not an "April Fool's" joke). I LONG TO GET BACK ON THE ROAD! Yes, I am living a very comfortable temporary life here in South Africa, thanks to my sister. However, my efforts to obtain travel/equipment sponsorship have turned up nothing yet. I have had discussions with people regarding work in the local cycle touring industry. Otherwise, perhaps I will try a bicycle delivery service here in Sedgefield (plenty of retired elderly folks have settled here!). But, I am not yet dead and gone. I will rise up and cycle on again - with or without assistance!

[ADDITION 3 April] It was great to meet up with my friend Mark Spengler! Thanks Mark, for driving down from Jeffreys Bay for the visit. We had run many a marathon together, and so we did plenty of reminiscing about the "Glory Days". He is in SA on holiday, and not looking forward to returning to work next week in the cold UK. I had last seen Mark 12 years ago on 10 April 2007 (see blog post of that time). Rumour has it that we also shared a beer or 2.

RETURN OF THE PRODIGAL SON

Well, I feel that the proverbial "Fattened Calf" has been slaughtered (and braai'd). Firstly, before I set foot on a single airplane, the guys at Pontian Cycling Club in Malaysia spoilt me rotten (and then they drove me hundreds of km to KL airport).

Dave fetched me at the airport in Cape Town, and I am currently staying with him and Kathy (gourmet food, the use of a bicycle, and more - very thankful).

It was also good to meet up with many old friends at the West Coast AC. I expect to stay around Cape Town for a short while, and wander off to my sister Olga in Sedgefield (South Coast village). I dumped my bike (number 2), and worn-out panniers, and a bunch of other things, in Malaysia. So now I dream of getting some sponsorship, a good new bike and equipment, and setting off into the sunset again. But that is just a dream at this stage.

A BREAK AFTER A BREAK

Leana broke her arm, so we've flown back to Cape Town for a break while she recovers (that's the basic info - for those who only look at the pictures). After leaving Jakarta we cycled South and spent a day in Bogor ("Rain Town") where we visited the amazing historical botanical gardens. Then we aimed East along the interior of Java Island, climbing a mountain pass along the slopes of two 3000m volcanic peaks. Those hillsides are a scenic tea-growing area, with continuous villages, food-stalls, and hotels (called villa's there) lining the mountain road. I was still suffering from Bronchitis, and after sheltering from a heavy afternoon shower I waited outside with the bikes while Leana went out back to inspect the rooms at one of the "villas". Then one of those crazy things happened (in a place where there is always a good chance of being knocked down in the traffic!). Returning from the rooms out back, Leana slipped on the wet concrete ramp and broke her arm - not even on the bike! For the next 2 days we struggled on (me on the bike, and Leana and her bike in mini-van taxi's), to the city of Bandung where she could consult an orthopedic surgeon. There was nothing much to be done, except to take a recovery break - and she bought me a plane ticket as well (for the benefit of those who are wondering where I suddenly got so much money!). Thirty-five hours after leaving our room in Bandung, we were home in Cape Town (17 hours in the air). Our bikes are just about our only luggage (for a decent overhaul at CMC). The 8th was my birthday, and I paid a surprise visit to my mother on that day (my mother is 86 with a weak heart, so it was almost a funeral as well as a birthday!). In the next 3 weeks I hope to visit my sister Olga in Sedgefield, as well as my friends around Cape Town. As usual I'm short of money, and as usual my bicycle is my means of transport (so if you live more than 150 km away, don't expect me to reach you in one day!). Fortunately many of the countries where I've recently traveled have been quite cheap, so I'm shocked by the prices of consumables here in SA (it seems that prices have more than doubled in the 3 years I've been gone!). The bit of cycling which I've done since Jakarta is as follows:- Bogor 57 km; Cipanas 41 km; Cianjur 25 km; and Bandung 63 km. Total distance cycled so far on this journey is 57 002 km.

GOING, GOING, ...... GONE!

By the time most of you read this report I would have left Cape Town again after a 3 week fattening-up period. During this time I've seen most of my friends (plenty of braai's, so I've grown into my skin again). Apologies to those I did not see, I obviously didn't manage my time very well. I lost the beard, mainly because it was scaring those people closest to me. My bike (old Saartjie) has been given a new lease on life, thanks to Leon and Jaco at Cycle Maintenance Centre. Further thanks to CMC for their generous sponsorhip of spares and labour on the bike (new Sram components, Continental tyres, etc.) Thanks also to Canvas and Tent for replacing the poles on my Bushtec tent. Tomorrow I return to Addis Ababa, where I hope the rest of my belongings are still safely locked away. Leana will be joining me from Addis onwards, for the time being. We will probably spend the next week or so there, organising visas, etc. From experience I know that the internet in Ethiopia is too slow for me to post reports and photo's, so it may be a while before my next update. Please be patient! Thanks again to all those who leave comments on this site, or who send me e-mail.

UP THE RIFT VALLEY

As I write this report I'm looking out the window of an Etiopian Airlines flight on my way back to South Africa. I'll be in Cape Town for a few weeks, courtesy of my sister Olga. It's a strange experience flying back over the ground I'd covered during the past six and a half months, almost like a quick rewind of a very long movie. I'm using the opportunity to take my bike back with me for the necessary attention (hopefully Old Saartjie is indeed in the hold of the plane). Since Nairobi I've only had the one off day in Marsabit, and I feel that I need a good rest. I've also had to push on through the scenic but hilly Southern Ethiopia in order to make my flight date in Addis Ababa. With the heavily loaded bike on the many big slow hills, an aggravation along the rural roads is the hordes of youngsters making a nuisance of themselves (chanting "you-you", "ferange", and "give me .... whatever"). They also attempt to pull luggage off the bike, throw stones, and there was even the odd effort to get a stick in the spokes. In Addis I found the people to be more welcoming, and I've really enjoyed the 2 days there. Most of my belongings remain in Addis for when I return to continue my journey. Other good things about Ethiopia are that the food is very good, and things are very cheap (just avoid the tourist traps). Things I've found odd about the country are that their clock is 6 hours different, they're about half a month behind, they have their own alphabet, they drive on the "wrong" side of the road, and they are currently celebrating the millenium. Distances since Moyale were:- Mega 113 km; Yavello 103 km; Agra Maryam 100 km; Dilha 95 km; Shashemene 113 km; Meki 122 km; Debre Zeit 92 km; and Addis Ababa 54 km.

BUSHVELD BASHING

Actually, this section has been quite a smooth ride, but that doesn't rhyme with "bushveld". I stayed at Lichtenburg waiting for my drivers licence to arrive on Monday am (and it was there!). The cruise to Zeerust was comfortable, watching the mielies turn to bush and cattle country. Appropriately the Pub & Grill next to the camp site in Zeerust was called "The Bull & Bush". I've enjoyed reading the work of Herman Charles Bosman (which plays off the that region). His narrator (Oom Schalk Lourens) was often drinking coffee in the P.O. at the start of a story, but as I was having breakfast at the Wimpy I realized that those days have gone. The Botswana policeman at the Shilpadhek border post informed me that there was nothing of interest at Lobatse (the next town inside Botswana). I found out he was right, and went on to a sprawling village called Otse, where there was even less of interest. They advertise a non-existent camp site, so after some time I found the Baratani Lodge which also didn't cater for tents. The staff took pity on me and decided that I could camp on the lawn for half the price of a room. However, after some lengthy deliberation they gave me a room at the same price as camping (which they didn't have). This morning I hit the road to Gaborone quite early, so that I could do some business and find a camp site. The business has been done, and I hear there is a "Bull & Bush" here as well (with a camp site attached). Distances since Lichtenburg are: Zeerust 88 k; Otse 87k; and Gaborone 65 k (most of it in the town looking for places).

THE "BLOEM TO BLOEM" JETSTREAM

Leaving Bloemfontein I was fortunate to have a tail wind, and after 2 days of rest old Saartjie (my bike) was keen to run with the breeze. In fact Saartjie was so keen that 2 days later I was sitting on the banks of the Vaal River just downstream of the Bloemhof Dam. In the process I passed 2000 k's since leaving CT. But this all has nothing to do with the story I want to tell. My story has to do with the "filling" in the "2-Bloem sandwich". Arriving at Bultfontein at 14h30 on the Sunday of a "long" weekend isn't easy. For a while I was convinced that there were only 2 inhabitants of the town, and both of them were petrol attendants. I started to slowly cruise the streets, and after about 20 minutes (5th lap) I noticed people on the lawn of a house. It turned out to be the co-owner of the Bultfontein Hotel, who invited me into his home for a meal. He then gave me a room and breakfast in the Hotel (free of charge). He is in the process of upgrading the hotel, and if you are in the area please contact Mr Porro Botha at 0738409296 vrsptyltd@iafrica.com (Thanks Porro - see picture).

TIGHTENING THE MIELIE BELT

For the past few days I've been travelling through SA's "Maize Belt" (there's even a railway siding called "Mieliebelt"). For long distances at a time all one can see is maize fields connected by huge grain elevators every 20 k's or so. Another belt I've been able to tighten is my own. For months before I left CT people have been saying I'm wise to fatten up before embarking on a mission of this nature. To my own embarrassment it seems I may have overdone the preparations (see early photo's). Fortunately, I'm almost able to see my feet again! A further belt which I'll have to tighten is the one which controls the finances. I've been having a royal time so far, but at this rate I may not even reach Nietverdiend (which would be rather appropriate). Anyway, I'm sitting in Lichtenburg writing all this nonsense, which is more than most people can say (unless you live in Lichtenburg, of course). I'll only be leaving here on Monday, as I have to pick up an article at this post office (which means 3 days of rest). Distances travelled since Bloemfontein are: Bultfontein 104 k; Bloemhof 105 k; Wolmaransstad 72 k; Ottosdal 47 k; and Lichtenburg 89k.

THE LONELY ROAD

This morning Leana left Bloemfontein by train back to CT, from where she will fly to London next week. I will miss her, and I wish her well in her cycle through Europe. (Incidently, my mother was visiting family in Bloem, and was on the same train in the compartment next door to Leana). The train was a couple of hours late, so I've decided to stay over another night. My intention was to leave here for Swaziland and Mocambique, but I've changed my mind and will now head for Botswana tomorrow.

HELLO, GOODBYE, DUMELA!

In our short trip through Lesotho this week we found the people to be particularly friendly. The children followed us in hordes, practising their English (some said "hello", some said "goodbye", and some said "good morning" in the pm). Others greeted us with "dumela", and everyone shouted and waved, even from across the valeys as we cycled along. Whenever we stopped there was soon a crowd of curious onlookers (not only children). If we made a move (eg. to open a bag), then one could sense a ripple of expectant excitement running through the crowd (who were usually standing in a semi-circle around us). Tomorrow morning I also say goodbye to Leana who takes the train back to Cape Town. She leaves for London on the 5th, from where she plans to cycle through the UK and Europe (see the link to her website in the column on the right).

BORDER HOPPING

This section since Aliwal North has been a hectic few days of crossing rivers and borders. Firstly we crossed the Orange river into the Free State (where we camped at Zastron). The next day we headed for Lesotho along a bumpy gravel road, and crossed at the Makhaleng Bridge border post. That evening we booked into a local hotel in Mohales Hoek (supper was pap, meat, and marogo). The next day we cycled in Lesotho via Mafeteng, and crossed back into SA at Van Rooyens Gate near Wepener. The following day we crossed the Caledon river on our way to Bloemfontein, staying over in Dewetsdorp. In Bloem I had a buckled rear wheel repaired and 2 broken spokes replaced (no charge - thanks Cyclo City). I also bought a new tent, as I don't think my faithful 20-year old tent will last the trip through Africa. Distances since Aliwal were: Zastron 79k; Mohales Hoek 56k; Wepener 74k; Dewetsdorp 43k; and Bloemfontein 80k.

THE WATERSHED

Now I'm not referring to the buckets of sweat which I've been shedding on the uphills! Rather, looking at a map of the area we've been travelling through these past few days, it seems that the rivers flow away from us (N to the Orange river, and S to the coast). Also, the rain comes down with a force strong enough to feed all those rivers. Coming from CT we're not used to this sort of thunderstorm weather. At Steynsburg we pulled into the Redefin camp site where the owner (Mike) advised us to pitch out tents under the lapa roof. The sun was shining at the time, but that evening a storm broke loose which wet our tents even under the roof (and killed our fire). The following evening at Burgersdorp dam we became clever and sheltered under the protection of a shed (with train coach sides), thus avoiding the evening storm. Last night we camped at the Aliwal Spa (no shelter), where it rained for most of the night. The Spa (which was once a fancy resort) has now become so dilapidated that one could refer to the remaining indoor pool as a "water shed". Distances travelled since Cradock were: Hofmeyr (60k); Steynsburg (46k); Burgersdorp (78k); and Aliwal North (67k).