NW CHINA - URUMQI AND KASHGAR

FIRSTLY, HERE ARE SOME PICTURES ALONG THE WAY IN URUMQI, CAPITAL OF THE JINXIANG PROVINCE IN NORTH WESTERN CHINA. My efforts to get to the western extremes of China have resulted in somewhat of an epic journey in itself (without riding the bike). From Lanzhou, where I produced my previous pathetic blog update, I have headed constantly in that westerly direction. My objective being to get as close to the China/Pakistan border as possible, where I have been before (from the Pakistan side – without being able to enter China at that time). Hard seats on crowded trains were the order of the day for 24hrs at a time. Old Saartjie (my bike) and baggage which was booked into the cargo department never arrived on the same day as me. So, first stop was Urumqi (Wulumiqi Nan to most Chinese further East – which makes things rather confusing to someone like me who does not speak the language). Anyway, Urumqi is a large modern city, and the capital of this vast western Xingjian province. If this province was a country on its own, apparently it would be the 8th largest country in the world. However, the provincial population is only 4% of the total Chinese population. There is a notable security tension in the city, after the 2009 rebellion (military, police, and security checks all over the show – even armored cars outside shopping malls). I booked an onward ticket at the quiet ticket office in the city (the train station ticket offices are all absolutely chaotic, and you can expect to be in “pushy” que’s for hours). Then I stayed over in the Mai Tan Hostel, central and quite a pleasant place. This province is home to the largely Moslem Uighur people, who have their own style of food, mostly based on mutton (where in the rest of China the staple meat is pork). The following pictures are just some shots around Urumqi.

MY NEXT STOP WAS KASHGAR, THE MOST WESTERN CITY IN CHINA. One way of geographically placing Kashgar is to realise that in distance this city is closer to Damascus than to Beijing. The city has been a major central Asian trading post for thousands of years. The population in Kashgar is mostly Uighur, there is a central “Old Town”, around an important mosque. Unfortunately a large part of the old town has been demolished, and other parts have/are being “renovated” to look somewhat artificial and touristy. Fortunately there is still a strong “old fashioned” Uighur way of life in Kashgar (where I happen to be at the moment). The Old Town Youth Hostel is a great place to meet other travellers, especially touring cyclists, for which the place is known. Nothing fancy, but with cheap beds, outside courtyard where you can keep (and even wash your bike), and a secure temporary haven from the “real world” – which I am often too close to. For years I have been looking forward to experiencing Kashgar, and I am not disappointed. Although this city is not a big one (actually it is a desert oasis), it certainly has a modern aspect to it – after all, it is part of a rapidly “developing” China! So, the following pictures are from around Kashgar (mostly the old town).

Now you are probably wondering where I will be off to after this. Well, I was hoping to be able to somehow (by miracle) get up to the Pakistan border. (Actually, I also wanted to see if there was anything left of my old gloves which I had strapped to the post at KM 0 at the top of the Khungerab pass!). Unfortunately the area beyond Tashkurgan is a military restricted area, and I will not be allowed in there on my own (especially with bike).

GETTING TO THE START

Yes, I have made it into China. All my efforts now are to reach my starting point, but that is easier said than done.

I am now in Lanzhou, pretty much in the NW/centre of the country. It has been some sort of a slog getting here, also involving a 34 hr bumby bus ride, and 41 hrs on a hard seat in a very crowded train (many passengers have only standing tickets).

I broke the journey between bus and train in Kunming, at the nice Cloudland hostel where I have been before. There I had some good company (Dutch travellers Michelle and Lucas, as well as French Nicolas - who found it very amusing that I had gotten lost for 8 hours in the middle of the night from outlying bus station to city hostel). This is the summer holiday season, so all means of transport is booked up. I have cycled a few days NW from Lanzhou up the silk route last year (my 2nd effort to cross China from S to W).

My bike and all my baggage was checked in to the cargo dept, and only arrived 24 hrs after me (no bike, clean clothes, toiletries, guide book, etc. for a day). Not the end of the world. I have decided to take transport all the way West to the Pakistan border (or as close as possible), and then cycle back East here to Lanzhou.

But, there are always surprises on the road, and all transport is booked up for the next week (due to the summer holidays). I have managed to secure an onward train ticket, so now I have a few days to just put my feet up. Then there will be a lot of pedalling going on, because my visa time is running out.

At the hostel where I am staying here in Lanzhou there are no foreigners, mostly Eastern Chinese students on holiday (luckily some of them speak a little English). Lanzhou is a big city on the Yellow River, but there is just about no English spoken as it is not a tourist destination, but mainly a junction on the Silk Route between the West and Eastern China. I will take some pics around this area, so check this site again in the next couple of days.

Distances cycled are mostly between hostels, bus staions, and train stations, so I will add that to the next post when I have done some real cycling. Oh yes, I can now access my blog and e-mail because I have aquired a VPN app, which re-routes my internet connection to avoid the Chinese block on certain websites.

DE JE VOUS IN VIENTIANE

Here I am, once again in Vientiane, the capital of Laos. Similar to last year it was a charge North from Bangkok, and I crossed the border a day or 2 before my Thai visa expired. It was so much of the "same old route" that I only realised afterwards I did not take any pics. At least this time (unlike last year) I did not have my computer, or anything else, stolen along the way. Also, to save some time and effort, I jumped the gun and took the train to Ayuttaya.

There doesn't seem to be much new to photograph in this city, but I've stuck on some pics anyway. At least I have obtained my China visa here again, and will be heading in that direction shortly. I will probably not be able to update my blog from there (as in the past), but there are ways and means and hopefully I can get access to that.

Distances cycled since Bangkok have been:- Ayuttaya (+ train) 12 km; Pakchong 109 km; Nakhon Rachasima 121 km; Temple Camp 124 km; Kong Kaen 120 km; Truck Stop 65 km; Nonh Khai 59 km; and Vientiane 28 km. Total distance is 129 472 km.

VISIONS OF BANGKOK

I've been in Bangkok a number of times on my travels, and I find it difficult to come up with new photos around the place. I keep taking pictures of the same attractions, and surely I must have posted similar pics at different times.

The "over-the-top" Khao San Rd, and the more relaxed Rambuttri Lane in the Banglamphu district are where lots of short-term tourists and backpackers hang out. In case you wake up hungry in the middle of the night, no problem, pull on some clothes and there will be something to eat not too far away.

I like wandering around the city, with the various means of public transport. River ferry, Sky Train, Metro (those are my preferences, and they all interconnect with each other). Then there is also a huge bus network, taxis, tuk-tuks, and even motorbike taxis. Of course, I could also ride my bike around the place, and I walked a lot. It was not just a case of wandering around though, as I had visa business to do, and also had to find the bike shop area (they all tend to be in the same place) for some spares I still needed. My 4th saddle (bought in Honduras) was about to give up the ghost, so I bought some elaborate contraption on springs (it seems to be working OK so far).

At least there is something new every time I get to the city, and that is the buildings. These towers spring up at an alarming rate. There is one 53 storey abandoned building (referred to as the Ghost Tower), where the guards can be bribed for a handsome amount and then allow foreigners to climb the stairs to the top for a panoramic view. The "bribe" was a bit too steep so I gave it a miss.

One of the new buildings which was not even on the horizon a year ago is the interestingly designed MahaNakhon (still under construction). A 77 storey monster (and an impression of what it will look like once completed).

Myanmar and Indian visas have been secured, so now again I am off in a hurry (on the same old road) in the direction of Laos.

BACK IN THE FAR EAST

OK, I am just trying to stay up to date. I arrived in Bangkok last night 35 hours and 3 flights after leaving Miami on Wednesday. In the same cheap room in Peachy GH as before. Luckily it is weekend and I have to wait till Monday to check about visas and permits which I may need from certain Embassies. Now I can relax for a while and get my sleep/wake cycle in sinc with this area (12 hrs ahead of where I have come from). Will update again as soon as there is something worth saying. Perhaps a photo or 2 as well.